Month: May 2017

COB Holder and Reflector Adapter Part Numbers for Popular Chips

Looking for the best way to attach your COBs to your heat sink? Use a COB holder.

COB holders make it much easier to fix your chip to your heat sink and, more importantly, they make wiring far simpler as well. Rather than soldering (which sucks), COB holders offer “poke in” connectivity instead: just strip your cable and push it into the designated holes in the holder. There aren’t many manufacturers of COB holders – the 2 brands that are most prominent are Ideal and BJB. Some COBs (like Bridgelux Veros) don’t require holders at all.

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3000K vs 5000K Grow: Final Update

Warm temperatures have finally arrived and it’s time to move my indoor plants to the great outdoors. I started these peppers in December using 5 gallon space buckets, which they quickly outgrew. Once they were too big for the buckets, I moved each pepper into its own closet and moved one Vero 18 out of each space bucket into these 2 closets.  I initially had a Moruga scorpion and a Chocolate Brainstrain under each light, but due to an incident involving my beloved hound, one of the Chocolate Brainstrain plants was broken in half, so the only real comparison is between the Morugas. Here are the peppers on their last day under the lights:

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Installing a Dimming Potentiometer on a Mean Well HLG-B Driver


Sampling My First Ripe Moruga Scorpion

How to Attach a Power Plug to a New LED Driver

When I got my first LED driver, I was surprised to see that it didn’t come with a power plug on it – this makes total sense though, as there are all sorts of different connectors you can terminate this wire with, depending on where you live or how you want to plug it in. Attaching a plug may seem intimidating, but it’s really quite simple. As long as you get the colors right and makes sure everything’s clean and tight, you’re in good shape.

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Samsung LM561C Strip Build: Finishing Touches

It’s been beautiful outside this past week so it’s been tough to get motivated to finish my DIY Quantum Board build, but I got it done today. I’m eager to see how the plants under these lights do – I think they’re going to work out really well! I’ll be growing lettuce, basil, swiss chard, and kale in Kratky totes. The nice thing about Kratky is that all you need to do is plop your seedlings into little mesh pots (net cups), cut these pots into a tote lid, then fill the tote with water, add nutrients, and just monitor the pH. The roots will grow down into the nutrient solution and drink away at it as required, so no watering is necessary.

Below are the steps I took to finish this light, but first, a quick recap of my final parts list:

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Exceeding Voltage Range on Constant Current Drivers

This is a subject I touched on in an earlier video  where I tried to run about 175 volts worth of LED (5 COBs) off of a driver only rated for 143 volts max. The result in that test was that the driver maintained its full voltage (~143v), but put out next to nothing for current. What I set out to test this time was what would happen if you were trying to pull just a handful of volts more than the driver was rated for, as opposed to trying to pull 30+ more than rated. By adding resistors in series with my 4 COB lights, I was able to slowly increase the voltage drop of my circuit to meet and exceed the max rating of my driver and see how it reacted.

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Starting Seeds in Rock Wool

When going hydro, my favorite medium to start seeds in is definitely rock wool. Rock wool (also known as mineral wool) is produced by blowing a stream of air through molten rock. Rock wool is excellent at holding moisture and delivering it to your plants while simultaneously allowing their roots to breath.You can get rock wool cubes or slabs in many sizes, from little 1″x1″x1″ starters to the 8″x8″x8″ “Big Mama” block. Below is the process I follow to start seeds in rock wool.

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