DIY LED Strip Build Designs for Samsung H-Series, F-Series, Q-Series, and Bridgelux EB Gen.2

DIY LED strip builds have become very popular recently. The mid-power section of our forum is full of threads created by DIYers looking to build their own custom lights, and new builds and ideas are surfacing every day. If you don’t live somewhere where you have easy access to premade lights like HLG Quantum Boards or ChilLED lights, you can save a lot of money on customs, duties, and shipping fees by piecing together your own lights using the same diodes as these guys do. That being said, building these lights does require a fair amount of work, and if you’re new to the game and can afford to buy a premade light from a reputable company like those listed above, we’ll usually recommend going that route first to get your feet wet. However, if the cost is prohibitive or you’d prefer to roll up your sleeves and build one yourself, you’ve come to the right place.

In this article, we’ll kick things off by reviewing the pros and cons of the 4 best, most efficient DIY LED strips available, and list the part numbers for each color temperature to make them easier to search for (Digi-Key is your friend!). Next, just to make your life easier, we’ve put together a design using each of these strip types for every common grow space size including 2’x2′, 2’x4′, 3’x3′, 4’x4′, and 5’x5′.  We’ll even provide a complete shopping list for each design to eliminate the guesswork. Let’s do this.

Please note: These designs were put together using data sheets only and have not been tested, nor are they guaranteed in any way. It is the full responsibility of the user to ensure their system uses proper components that are designed and installed correctly. The following are design ideas only – use them at your own risk and do not attempt them if you don’t have the required skill and know-how. These systems run at high voltage/current and can be a hazard to you and your home if they aren’t done right.

EDIT 01/29/18: Added 1-foot builds for 2’x2′ and 2’x4′ spaces for a better fit in tents.

EDIT 01/31/18: Updating wire and resistor part numbers/requirements.

EDIT 02/02/18: Changed wire type recommendations. I recommend you consult with an electrician to determine proper wire gauge for your specific build. I am not an electrician.

EDIT 02/23/18: Added 2-foot strip builds for 4’x4′ spaces.


There are 4 different series of strips that we’d recommend using for your build:

  • Samsung F-Series Gen.3
  • Samsung H-Series Gen.3
  • Samsung Q-Series
  • Bridgelux EB Strips Gen.2

Each type has its strengths and weaknesses, and after crunching the numbers on all of these designs, we’ll share our thoughts at the bottom of the article as to which strips are best. First, let’s do an overview of each type and list off the part numbers to help you find them easier.

Samsung F-Series Gen.3

The F-Series is a great bang-for-buck strip that utilizes Samsung LM561C diodes, which are the second-most efficient diode on the market with only the Samsung LM301B diode having better efficiency. The beauty of the F strips is that these strips cram in many more diodes per strip than the others. For example, the F-Series LT-F564B 2′ (560mm) strip, boasts a whopping 144 diodes. Compare this to the other 2-foot strips: the Samsung H-Series comes in at 48 diodes, the Q-Series has only 40 diodes, and the Bridgelux Gen.2 EB strip uses 112 diodes (though these are smaller diodes at 2.8mm x 3.5mm vs the LM561C at 3.5mm x 5.6mm).

For the F-series, there are a few options for strip configurations at different lengths. The 1-footers have only one option, but there are 2 different configurations for the 2-footers and 2 different configurations for the 4-footers. As such, these strips run at different voltages. Click the link below to show the Samsung part numbers for each length and color temperature.

Click here for the F-Series Gen.3 data sheet.


Samsung H-Series Gen.3

The H-Series was the first iteration of Samsung strips to utilize the LM561C diode. Despite having fewer diodes than its F-Series brothers, it’s still a decent choice and you can offset the lower count by adding more strips to even things out.

The H-Series is pretty simple. All strips run at the same voltage (typically around 24V), and the only thing that differs among the 3 lengths is the diode count and current requirement.

Click here for the H-Series Gen.3 data sheet.


Samsung Q-Series

Samsung’s Q-Series uses the current top-dog of diodes: the LM301B. These diodes are rated at over 200 lumens per watt, vs. the 187 lumens per watt that the LM561C is rated for. The Q-Series strips are still quite new, and, as such, are more expensive than the H-Series and F-Series strips. They also have the lowest diode count per strip, which does matter in medium to large sized builds.

Opposite of the H-Series, the Q-Series strips all have the same max current, but the typical voltage across each length is different.

Click here for the Q-Series data sheet.


Bridgelux Gen. 2 EB Strips


Bridgelux’s second generation of their EB strip line offers a significant increase in efficiency over their first generation (up to 180 lumens per watt vs. 159 lumens per watt). The most attractive thing about these strips is the price point, and since they’re very close to the LM561C in terms of efficiency, they’re a great alternative to Samsung’s offerings.

Like the Samsung F-Series, the EB Gen.2 strips have a mix of different voltages and currents. Bridgelux does not list the specific diode used to build these strips, but through some detective work, we believe that they’re using the 2835 .2W 3V Gen.2 Bridgelux SMD. All figures have been calculated on this assumption.

Click here for the EB Strip Gen.2 data sheet.


Now, the fun part. Below, we’ve put together a design using each strip type for a variety of different grow spaces. In these designs, we’ve done our best to strike a balance between simplicity, user-friendliness, cost savings, and, of course, bitchin’ PPFD. These things will rock your flowering space.

Some notes:

  • We’ll shoot for around 30 watts per square foot and aim to drive the strips at about 75% of their rated max.
  • Although lumens aren’t a great measure for grow lights, they still provide a good metric for comparing output of lights of the same color temperature. We will use lumen output as a rough guideline to balance the number of strips required for each light when driven at ~75%.
  • We’ll use constant current drivers for builds that end up with a reasonably low circuit voltage when wired in series (below 200V), and we’ll use parallel wiring with constant voltage drivers for those builds that would have too high of a circuit voltage if wired in series.
  • We’ll try to avoid having to use multiple drivers. We’ll only need multiple drivers for 5’x5′ spaces.
  • Each system will be designed so that the driver cannot overpower the strips.
  • On the constant voltage/parallel systems, all strips must be connected at once to prevent the chance of strips being overpowered.
    • For example,  if the design calls for 10 strips and you only hook up 5, there is a potential for these 5 strips to be overpowered if the driver voltage/current is not set properly.
  • System current for “B” type drivers will be based on the driver data sheet’s rated current, and system current for “A” type drivers will be based on reported current, since you can get more power out of them.
  • All diodes will be top bin for flux. Specs will be based on a temperature of 45 degrees Celsius.
  • I personally use 18 gauge to connect wagos to strips (the strip connectors likely won’t take wire any bigger than 18 gauge) and I use a minimum of 14 gauge wire for the wago-to-wago connections in parallel systems – the cable needs to be at least this thick since these wago-to-wago runs carry more current. I am not an electrician – these are suggestions only and I recommend checking with a licensed electrician to ensure you’ve selected the proper wire for your system and installed it properly.

The spaces we’ll examine are:

  • 2’x2′
  • 2’x4′
  • 3’x3′
  • 4’x4′
  • 5’x5′


2’x2′ Grow Space Builds

In a 2’x2′ space, you’ll need ~120 watts of power. If you’re growing in a 2’x2′ tent, you’ll probably want to use 1-foot long strips in order to save some room in the tent. If you’re in open air and have the space, you might prefer to use 2-foot long strips to maximize your canopy spread. We have included both types of builds below – just be sure to measure your space to ensure your strips and frame will fit nicely.


2’x4′ Grow Space Builds

In a 2’x4′ space, we’ll aim for ~240 watts of power. Just like in the 2×2 section, if you want to use 2’ strips for your 2’x4′ build, even though these strips are not actually a full 24” long, they will be a tight fit by the time you incorporate your frame (if you’re growing in a tent) so be sure to measure your space to ensure they’ll fit. If you have the room, you may want to run the 2-footers for better coverage, but if they won’t fit, we’ve included 1-foot designs as well, so you’re covered either way.


 3’x3′ Grow Space Builds

We’ll want about 270 watts of power  for a 3’x3′.

4’x4′ Grow Space Builds

In a 4’x4′, we’ll need ~480 watts of power. We can’t quite hit this with an HLG-480H-48B, but we can hit it by using an HLG-480H-48A (you can get more power out of this version since you can increase the voltage) and cranking the voltage and current. The difference between the A version and B version is the A version has 2 built-in potentiometers to allow you to adjust voltage and current while the B version has leads for you to solder your own potentiometer so you can run a length of wire and dim the driver remotely. The A version also only dims down to 50% power, which will be fine for this application. This is the same driver that the HLG 550 light uses.

For the 4’x4′ space, you may not quite be able to fit 4’ strips – even though these strips are not actually a full 48” long, they may be a tight fit by the time you incorporate your frame (if you’re growing in a tent) so be sure to measure your space to ensure they’ll fit. Just in case, we’ve also included builds for 4’x4′ tents that utilize 2 strips if you can’t fit 4’ strips.


5’x5′ Grow Space Builds

Finally, for a 5’x5′, we’ll need about 750 watts of power. To get this much power, we’ll need to use multiple drivers and it’s important to make sure that your house’s AC circuit can support this much current draw (you’ll need to consult the data sheet for your driver and check the AC current input).



After crunching the numbers, it’s clear that 2 families of strips stand out above the others: the Samsung F-Series Gen.3 and the Bridgelux EB Strip Gen.2. Both of these strips pack a lot of diodes per foot and offer near-identical efficiency. While the Samsung LM561C has a higher efficacy on paper (187 lm/w), you’ll notice that in our designs, the EB strips often have a higher efficacy than the F-strips. Interestingly enough, we believe the reason for this is that Bridgelux has underrated their EB Gen.2 strip max current. 

If our hunch is correct and Bridgelux is, in fact, running 2835 .2W 3V Gen.2 diodes on these strips, then the 1-footers would have a true max of 1,200mA (not 700mA, as the data sheet says) and the 2-footers and 4-footers would have a true max of 2,400mA (not 1,400mA, as the data sheet says). That being said, if the true max current of these strips is significantly higher than stated, we would actually be running the strips quite soft, and, as a result, they will run at a higher efficacy than the F-series in our designs.

While the F-Series strips are far more expensive than the EB Gen.2 strips, you don’t need to use nearly as many of them, and this cuts down on heat sink costs as well. By the time you factor in the additional heat sinks required for the EB Gen.2 strips, the price of each build is nearly identical for the same output. The advantage of running the dense F-Series strips is that there’s a lot less work to do since with fewer heat sinks and strips to wire. The advantage of running the EB strips is the fact that you’ll get a more even spread with the additional strips and can get more uniform coverage across your canopy.

The H-Series and Q-Series are distant runner-ups in this group. Both have low diode counts and require a lot more strips to hit the same output that the F-Series and EB Gen.2 can achieve with fewer strips. This results in a lot more work and significantly higher heat sink costs. The saving grace of the Q-Series is that you will save a little on your electrical bill since they’re more efficient than the other strips.

All in all, our ranking is as follows:

#1- Samsung F-Series

#2- Bridgelux EB Gen.2

#3- Samsung Q-Series

#4- Samsung H-Series

Which strips will you use for your build? Let us know in the comments below.


  1. Hey there,

    Great post. Thank you for all your well-prepared information. It has made researching my 2×2 diy strip build so much easier.

    One thing I’m confused of though, is your wiring diagram for the F562B build. Every time I look at it, I convince myself that it is in parallel as opposed to series (which is what the description of the build is). Am I missing something obvious?!

    • LEDGardener

      January 26, 2018 at 6:41 am

      Nope – my mistake. Thanks for pointing that out. I had initially went C.V./parallel for every build, then decided to change a few to series and forgot to switch the drawings.

      Edit: Made the changes so the proper diagrams are in place – thanks again.

      • Yeah man, no worries.

        Thanks heaps for updating everything! Bout to pull the trigger on ordering all my bits for my F-series strip build for my 2×2.

        I had everything lined up and designed using h-series strips then saw this post and changed my mind. Can get away with way less wiring and less aluminium cuts this way. Less room between the walls of the tent and the frame though I guess. But arguably better coverage.

        Anyway I’m rambling. Thanks again for your site. Such good info.

        • LEDGardener

          January 27, 2018 at 12:58 pm

          Nice. The F strips are the bomb. Only issue with 2 footers in a 2×2 is space but luckily they are only truly 22” or so.

          • This is the last thing I am trying to decide on. My space is 600mm x 600mm. These strips are meant to be 560mm. It doesn’t leave much space at either end of the mounted strips (onto the C channel aluminum) to connect the C channel to the frame.

            This is probably not a question for you, but do you think it would be better to try and squeeze this frame in (say something like 590mm square) with the 2 ft strips, or use more of the 1 ft strips and just centre the light on a frame that is say 300mm x 500mm or something. I feel like it would make sense to leave a bit of space between the edge of the frame and the sides of the tent. With the 2 ft build, it only leaves a few mm or so at most.

          • LEDGardener

            January 28, 2018 at 7:34 pm

            I’m considering adding a couple sections for this. Those that are growing in tents will be constrained on the 2×2, 2×4, and 4×4 sizes since the strips are nearly the length of the tent. I may add some 1-footer builds for the 2×2/2×4 spaces and 2-footer builds for the 4×4 spaces.

          • Oops, that ‘anonymous’ post is actually me. Sorry

  2. Thank you very much for those informations! Awesome!

    I juste have one question, can we find somewhere the spectrum of the Samsung F-Series Gen.3?

    Is it similar to the HLG board?

    Thank you very much!

  3. The infusion of options for – truly dialing-in on and distributing the type and quality of light that you want, or that limited, or odd-space requires – has made DIYing high-diode-count fixtures possible w/o having to be a golden ticket holder. With this as a jump-off point and the forum for support, a strip build is probably up next for me. Take care.

  4. hi
    I have a HLG-185-1400 driver how many EB 2 foot strips can use on it ,and can i used flat bar or c channel for heat sink thanks mark

    • LEDGardener

      January 28, 2018 at 6:32 pm

      6 of them. I’d definitely go C channel at minimum since you’re running them at max. May want to look into heatsinkusa 1” profile for that power unless you dim.

  5. Where you say:

    On the constant voltage/parallel systems, all strips must be connected at once to prevent the chance of strips being overpowered.

    Should that not be constant current/series systems?

    • LEDGardener

      January 29, 2018 at 7:45 pm

      Nope – you could get away with it on CC/series systems as long as the circuit voltage was still within the constant current region. However, on some of the C.V./parallel builds, the voltage of the driver would cause the strips to pull too much current if there wasn’t enough of them connected.

      For example, for the 4’ EB strip build, there is no 40V driver in the Mean Well lineup, only 42V. If you hooked it up to only half the strips called for in the design, that high of a voltage would cause them to pull way too much current and cook them. If you hook up all the strips though, when the driver dumps all its current into he circuit, it’s no longer high enouh to destroy the strips because it’s split up among a greater number of them.

    • Voltage is “pushed” (so out if spec voltage on a PSU is damaging) but current is only ever “pulled” as needed.

  6. perfect!!!

  7. Looking into the data sheets, it looks like BridgeLux specifies their properties at 25 deg C while Samsung specifies it at 65 deg C. BridgeLux does provide a graph that shows about 6% drop in Luminous Flux at 65 deg. That should bring the efficacy of BridgeLux below Samsung, rt?
    But in the conclusion part, you mentioned that “While the Samsung LM561C has a higher efficacy on paper (187 lm/w), you’ll notice that in our designs, the EB strips often have a higher efficacy than the F-strips.” Does that mean in your tests, BridgeLux was still found to be higher efficacy at the same temperature as Samsung?
    My apologies if all of this is obvious, just trying to make sense of the numbers here.

    • LEDGardener

      January 30, 2018 at 12:51 pm

      Hey geek. The Samsung and Bridgelux official calculators allow you to input a temperature so I set them both to 45 degrees and this modifies the efficacy figure that it spits out.

      • Hey, thanks for the quick reply and for clarifying my question. Separately, I was not able to locate the official calculators for either Samsung or BridgeLux with the referenced strip lights. Can someone be kind enough to share the calculators if it is readily available. Thanks,

  8. Hey,
    On the “Bridgelux 2′ LED Strip Build – 2’x2′ area” you use 6 of the 2′ strips. From my calculations the HLG-120H-C1050B driver can handle 7 of the strips (7 strips @ 147v vs. 148v maximum). It is within a volt of the maximum. Is that the reason you used less?

    Thank you

    • whats the Waterproof Connector for? Are there other quick connectors you recommend >?

      • LEDGardener

        January 31, 2018 at 8:01 pm

        It’s for the AC power connection of the driver. I think it’s the way to go for this application – HLG uses them in their kits.

    • LEDGardener

      January 31, 2018 at 8:05 pm

      That’s one of the reasons – yes. Since Bridgelux says the strips can be 19.5-21.5V there is a chance that if you get a batch of strips that run on the high side for voltage, you could pick up that extra volt or more along the 6 strips and exceed the rating. Also, 6 strips is a nice number to work with, plus it balances nicely in terms of lumen output compared to the rest of the strips.

      • is this the same driver as the one in your 2 x 2 2 Samsung f strip build?

      • Sorry to belabor the point, but when I look at the Bridgelux datasheet, it shows a 19.4-21.6V variation based on 1400ma. If you run it at 700ma the range is 18.5-20.6V.

        So I assumed (and hoped) that running them at 1050ma would put the range in the middle- 19-21V as the range.

        Is there another calculation involved? Or is there a concern that ad libbing the datasheet can be essentially reading untested logic into it?

        Because 21V would put 7 strips at 1V under the maximum. And that would give me the pleasure of an added 20watts at the outlet, and the photons that come with it.

        Hope, of course, is a four-letter word when your driver blows in the midst of a cruel summer.

        • LEDGardener

          February 1, 2018 at 7:26 pm

          You can certainly try! Consider these builds a baseline and you’re free to tweak them as you see fit. As you say, it’s probably fine. I was trying to balance a number of different factors for each build and they can be modified to satisfy whatever it is most important to you, be it price, efficiency, labour, or whatever.

        • The spec should chart current on the y-axis and voltage on the x-axis. See where the line crosses x, when y = 1050.

  9. is this the same driver 1x Mean Well HLG-120H-C700B Driver

    just trying to make sure i got an idea of what Im looking at and for lol thanks alot!

  10. Man, this is the best resource I’ve found yet in my search for a replacement for my 1000w HPS. I was almost set on trying to figure out a COB setup until I ran across your site here. I must thank you for what you’re doing. I’m very mechanically inclined, but I’ve got about a 3 year olds grasp on anything electrical. I’ll be running in a 4×4 tent and using a scrog for my grows. I’m thinking that I’ll use your plans for the 5×5 tent using the FB24B strips. I’ve got a lot of aluminum sheet at the house already to build my frame and “heatsinks” for the strips. There’s no reason I shouldn’t be able to just order everything on your list and assemble as you have laid out in the provided diagram, correct? This is very exciting and I’m looking to start collecting my parts as soon as possible. Is there a favorite dealer that you use for parts in the US?

    • from what ive seen best sources are ebay for things like tape pot meter wagos, digikey for lights, and mouser or arrow for driver arrow if your in Canada and are buying a few.

      • Thank you. Can anyone tell me if running the 5×5 FB24B rig in a 4×4 tent will be inefficient? I think I’d like the ability to hit over 500w without running anything too hard.

        • sounds kind of over kill to me wait for the master to return for answer lol

          • It’s so awesome how helpful this guy is. You don’t see a ton of people with this kind of knowledge who are so willing to share it.

        • LEDGardener

          February 1, 2018 at 7:32 pm

          Nothing wrong with running more strips – it’ll make it more efficient (if you’re talking about using more strips on the same 480H driver). Will the 4 footers fit in your tent? I’m in the process of doing builds for 4x4s with 2-footers for this reason.

          • I was thinking I’d just use your 5×5 FB24B guide (with the 2 drivers) and make it fit in my tent. Would running the 6 strips on just the one driver be better for some reason? From what I’ve seen online, the strips measure in at 44″ in length. My tent measures 48″ so I’ll fit them in there even if the walls are pushed out a little.

          • Is it stupid to try to run 700w in a 4×4? I would like the extra headroom for when I eventually start playing with c02. Or would it not run efficiently at less power if the 700 ended up being too much light with my current growing setup?

          • LEDGardener

            February 2, 2018 at 12:18 pm

            No not at all. If you’re running CO2 in The future, it’s a great idea.

  11. One more question open to anyone. With these constant voltage/constant current drivers like the HLG-120H-20B, how do we know what current it will actually put out through these strips? I mean, from what I read on the datasheet, it seems to me that it by default puts out a constant 20V (for this driver) and then the strips take whatever they take at that voltage (and temperature). Then, if conditions change for whatever reason and the strips want more current, the driver will stay at constant 20V but increase current until a maximum. In this case that maximum is 6000mA. Is that correct?

    Assuming that is correct, if you have 12 strips all in parallel (like in the 2×2 EB series 1′ build), if 11 of them went dark for whatever reason, the 1 remaining would still get 20V and the driver would just decrease the current to whatever the strip draws at that voltage, which is roughly 525mA. Have I got that right?

  12. LEDGardener

    February 1, 2018 at 8:32 pm

    You’ve pretty well got it. I cover it with a demo in this video:

  13. Can you let me know if 10 SI-B8V521560WW and 5 of these are compatible? looking to make 5 of the 2 x 2 Samsung F series rigs. Do you think your better of with the 4 Samsung single rows for better distribution or not a lot of difference in coverage really between the two.

  14. hey LEDGarderner, thanks for the great article! Going to use this info to make my own from barebones diy.

    this is a pretty big project so i’ll possibly be using 100x f series to light up my room of 95sqft canopy, if that matters.

    do you have a guide on how to actually put this together and what stuff is needed aside from a driver (suggestions?), fseries lights, and wires (any types 18g 14g)? regarding aluminum sheet, anything specific to look for in terms of quality/thickness/etc? not sure what else we need (solder kit? other tools?)

    also, how do i calculate how much f-series i need for my space – is it just 30w / sqft? and how to calculate how many drivers to support that?

    do you have recommendations on drivers as well?

    lastly, is there any difference between f-series lights that have double voltage? 23v vs 46v, not sure which is better (cost is a little less than double as well, and lumens is doubled)

  15. Hi.
    I have been starting to look into led strips, and i specially look at bridgelux setup for 2×2.
    However, when i run the “panel strip tool” i get confused. It tell me to look specially at the “System voltage” box, and when i do that it tells me that it would not be ok with HLG-120H-20B as you wrote in the guide since the box says that the system voltage is 22.8.
    The panel strip tool suggest HLG-150H-24.
    Please help as i’m going to order soon.

    • LEDGardener

      February 7, 2018 at 2:41 pm

      Hey there. The strips in the tool are Gen.1 EB and ran at a different voltage. You want 20V drivers for Gen 2.

      • Wow! Thanks for swift answer. Another question,,, is there a reason for that you used parallel wireing rather than series. If i want to use series wireing, what driver will i need for 12 strips?

        • Hey man,

          I’d suggest having a click around on this site. All the answers to your questions are found in the different links on this site already. If I was you, I would start at the start (ie with the COB links) and follow them all the way through. It’ll take a few hours, and by the end you will know how it all works.

          This link – – explains series vs parallel.

          If you hook up 12 strips in series, the voltages add up, so you end up with 12 * 20 = 240V going through it which is crazy high. That’s why either a combination of series and parallel, or just straight up parallel is required..

          • Hi there.
            Yeah, after i post in this tread i read up a little and i think i’m getting a hang of it now (i think) ;).
            As i understand it is depending of number of strips in the system, right? The more strips the more voltage in the end.
            Well, i think i’m going for the parallel setup. 🙂

          • Yeah it took me a while to understand what was going on, but after enough reading and remembering some high school physics, I got the hang if it.

            It definitely depends on the number of strips, but also how you group them together when you’re wiring. With 12, you can still quite easily run them in say, 3 groups of 4. That is, 4 in parallel and then the 3 groups in series. This would allow you to run it at a lower (and constant) current, but I guess at a higher voltage (around 60V in this case).

  16. Thanks for info.
    I have dicided to run my setup as suggested, 12 strips parallel wired.

    Just one more Q.
    Is there a reason for using Mean Well HLG-120H-20B and use 1x 100K Ohm Potentiometer insted of using HLG-120H-20A with built-in Potentiometer?

    • Is itn ok to go for a HLG-150H-20A for this setup? I’ve read it some where, just need confirmation 🙂

      • I think I found the answer here under the 4×4 build “The difference between the A version and B version is the A version has 2 built-in potentiometers to allow you to adjust voltage and current while the B version has leads for you to solder your own potentiometer so you can run a length of wire and dim the driver remotely. The A version also only dims down to 50% power, which will be fine for this application. This is the same driver that the HLG 550 light uses.”

  17. With those thermal tapes you’ve listed (the amazon and ebay listings), have you noticed any problems with using them in humid areas? Sometimes with heat and humidity, adhesives break down, and I’m trying to decide if that will be an issue. I’m debating use a tape like that for ease of use, a thin layer of thermal adhesive paste (which would be more permanent), or a thin layer of non-conductive glue like gorilla glue (easier to obtain locally, but not specialized for heat transfer).

    • LEDGardener

      February 8, 2018 at 12:07 pm

      If you wanted to be sure, you could throw a couple self-tapping screws into each strip. I have only heard that this tape is incredibly sticky though.

  18. Hi again.
    “Since Bridgelux says the strips can be 19.5-21.5V there is a chance that if you get a batch of strips that run on the high side for voltage”.
    I have ordered this:
    Will this be a problem if i get a batch from the high side?

  19. Could the 4×4 design be modified for a 3×6?
    Or would it be better to build 2 of the 3×3 set ups?

  20. On the 5×5 builds .the light pattern is a L. Shape. Can the build be designed any differently

  21. Today i started building and i decided to screw my strip to the heatsink. They are very flush to the heatsink and i wonder if it is neccesery to use thermal paste too?

  22. How would i incorporate this light into a triangle room? See link for pic:

    I was about to look up diy cob to replace my hps since the hps are having to many blindspots in my room, however i was given the link to this site and this looks interesting..

    Room is for both flower and veg and will be near full spec. i asume i would also be able to mix the strips in color.

    I was hoping to end up with a adjustable led light that covers the full room in even light compareable to my 400W hps in yield of cannapy..

    This looks like a viable option, however i have no idea how to best set it up in a triangle room..

    • LEDGardener

      February 22, 2018 at 10:55 pm

      Damn, that’s gonna take some straight up math! You’d have to get a little creative with some angles.

      • I know right, the picture i showed in my first post here had also Cobs on it, “the yellow circles”, those i can fit, but then i have so many cobs hanging..

        If from Europe so my measurements is in CM and M..
        1 inch = 2,54cm
        1 foot = 30,48cm

        However iv been looking at a few other grows with strips or at least their light setup, to get some ideas..
        And this is what i came up with.. The left side of the grow room is 60cm, and the F-Series LT-F562B 2 is 56cm so a length will fit and if i space them out so there is 8-10cm between each strip a full length from left to right will fit maybe 10 of those strips. Then i only need the one corner witch i can probaly fit 5 extra strips in or so..
        So my thought is to make 3 fixed lamps with 5 strips each. 2 of them will me 60x50cm or so and the last a bit more custom then that..

        To make it more easy for u to answer, is a spacing of 3-4 inch between the strips good or to much when running the F-Series LT-F564B 2′? If so then my above measurements might fit..

        Here is a picture to make it visible

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