Parallel Strip Build Tool

Since a lot of people have been looking for help on their strip builds, I figured it’d probably be helpful to have a calculator just for this. Now that we’re seeing more and more of these systems being built, it has become apparent that running all strips in parallel is the way to go – it’s expandable, the math is easier for large numbers of strips, and wiring is less confusing, so I’m only doing this for parallel builds. Check out the parallel strip build tool below!

A few notes:

  • Voltages are based on diode temps of 50C and Samsung strip voltage is based on A1 bin diodes.
  • Lumen estimates for Samsung are based on S6 bin diodes
  • The “MINIMUM HLG CV DRIVER” box spits out the smallest HLG series constant voltage driver you can get away with. Remember, you can always use a bigger driver as long as it’s the same voltage (e.g. – if you only need an HLG-100H-24, you could buy an HLG-320H-24 and run your strips just fine, with the ability to expand your system in the future).
  • Please note – pay special attention to the “System Voltage” box. It’s important that you use a multimeter to check/adjust your driver so that it’s outputting this voltage, otherwise, you run the risk of overdriving your strips. If you have an “A” type driver, you can adjust the voltage potentiometer directly on the driver. If you have a “B” type driver, you can adjust this by turning down your external potentiometer.
  • Be sure to split your wiring up if you’re using a big driver so you don’t exceed the current rating of your strip connectors. It’s far better to use Wagos than to daisy chain strips together with their built-in connectors.

Oh – if you’re mobile, try rotating your phone to landscape mode if the tool is looking screwy in portrait.

15 Comments

  1. Hey LG,

    It didn’t take a genius to see it. Obviously, right? cuz we talked about these strips, you know – perfectly-spaced and soldered-by-the-manufacturer, up-to-4 FT-long… if you can’t get your hands on a QB or Sun/Wavy or jeez, we need an f’n acronym, anyway – if this is what you have access to, it’s not a bad option: no real thermal management and infinite design possibilities for spread / light-placement.

    Really great tool, bro… thank you for the valuable resource.

    I think the Constant Current Calculator is safe, as a top destination for page hits – for now.

    • LEDGardener

      October 10, 2017 at 10:57 pm

      Thanks Mr. Volt. Indeed, if you don’t have access to the pre-built stuff or you’re looking for total customizability, this is the way to go!

  2. Richard Sullivan

    October 15, 2017 at 7:15 pm

    I’m having a hard time sourcing the lights in your list.
    For instance, I can find plenty of places with a lt-f562a, but noplace with a lt-f562b, like in the calculator.
    What is the difference here?

  3. hi gardener,
    when i look at the h562d it seems to be 480ma, not 1200.
    Where do i find that info?
    cheers Peter

    • LEDGardener

      October 16, 2017 at 6:17 pm

      That current you see in the data sheets is just the current that they used to test it and produce the other numbers shown in the data sheet. You can determine the true maximum current of each strip by looking at how the diodes are laid out.

      In the case of the H562D, the spec sheet says each string of diodes has 8 diodes in series, and that there are 6 of these strings in parallel. Since we know the max of a single diode is 200mA, we can multiply that by the number of strings into which it’ll be split (6) and get our max for the strip (1200mA)

  4. Hi LedGardener!
    Thanks for your answer on the previous question! I followed your advise, but! Do you know of any site that have wordwide shipping for drivers/cobs/boards(this mtk are always out of stock)?
    Also! where a can order this strips, worldwide and not!

    Thanks in advance!

    • Hey Damian,

      If you visit the forum, we’ve got retailers listed geographically. I believe in the General LED forum.

      Good luck with your build. And keep growing!

  5. Hi, thanks for the great resource!

    If the calculator is telling me that I need 240.3w for the system (6 samsung FB24B @ 25% drive) would I be able to get away with running 1 HLG-240H-48A?

    If so what would the effect of running slightly over the wattage rating be?

    • LEDGardener

      October 29, 2017 at 10:40 am

      For sure. These HLG drivers are considered “constant voltage + constant current”. This means that they operate as constant voltage up until they are outputting 100% of their current, at which point they switch to constant current mode. When they’re in CC mode, they will hold their max current output steady, and start to vary the voltage instead. In your case, that driver will only output a max of 5A, and that will be split between your 6 strips. You could keep adding strips and it would just keep splitting the current and every strip would receive less and less.

    • LEDGardener

      October 29, 2017 at 10:43 am

      Also, how big of a space are you planning on running these in? 25% power will be efficient as hell but may not be quite as bright as you expect. I usually recommend running a minimum of 50%.

      • Thanks!

        That combo would be covering 2ftx4ft of a larger system. I’m actually replacing 2x 1000w hps covering a 4x8ft flowering table.

        That high efficiency version of the system would ultimately be 24x fb24b running at 25% power on 4x HLG-240-48a

        But right now I’m mist likely going to go with

        12x fb24b @50% of max
        2x HLG-600H-48A

        The large driver is more expensive per watt but seems a lot more flexible in terms of driving different numbers of strips at various currents. ie I can buy more strips to increase efficiency in the future

        Does this make sense? Any suggestions?

      • 50% if using no heat sink? I assume 100% is not a problem with 2.079″ profile heat sink and thermal glue?

        • LEDGardener

          October 31, 2017 at 2:55 pm

          I would still be inclined to run some sort of heat sink at 50%. It makes it easier to attach them to a frame anyway. I included the 100% option as more of a reference so you can see how much power it takes to max them out. I’d run 50% or 75% myself.

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