If it's safe for the packages and phosphors, sure. But, I don't know what is and isn't. For LEDs with a lens protecting the phosphors, no problem, but mid-powers tend to be bare.

Remember that X lux = Y PPFD/YPFD. The conversation factor varies a bit per light source (around 70 for typical 80 CRI emitters), but any old cell phone or tablet will work for figuring out good enough spread, typically up to 50,000lx (somewhere around 700 PAR uMol/sm^2). IE, 30% more lux equals 30%...

Well, without buying them by the case, good ones are expensive. Like $40+ each expensive. Better to buy them in common form factors, so they'll be easy to replace, if you give them a lot of use, IMO. Alpha and Bourns are usually pretty good, but if you're cycling them day in and day out, their run o...

TEKNIK wrote: ↑

Tue Sep 24, 2019 9:25 pm

If you plan to dim to off you need a 0-10V dimmer POT, they are not as easy to find

While finding one matching the plates could be tricky, if they aren't white or (rare) black, would not just a knob and 100k pot work?

With some dimmable drivers, like the LCM linked, or ELG-75-C in B-suffix, if you can find a place to put the driver, run wires from the dimmer to it, and from it to the LEDs, you should be good. Both series feature dim to off, so whether the tap used is switched or not doesn't matter - you just need...

Aluminum L-channel and U-channel from hardware stores should work fine, as long as you don't drive the strips hard. How hard, I'm not sure on these new strips, but I would feel comfortable with up to around 10W/ft with 1.5" L-channel, as long as the space has decent air circulation, sight unseen and...

For housings, at 4ft, local is the way to go, but you may have to look a bit. My local Habitat for Humanity Restore always has several pulled 4ft fluorescent fixtures, FI, for just several dollars a piece. With a little cleaning, they'd be great - keep glare down, provide a grounded chassis, and wit...

An A type CV driver should have a voltage pot (narrow range) and current limit pot. They can be so adjusted, just not with a remote knob, only right at the driver. If you want remote adjustment that's relatively easy to work with, the B-suffix CC drivers are the way to go. You may want to take advan...

It will work, but will have a narrow useful range, and if it's a standard pot, may have a chance of not reaching 100K/100%. It will give you voltage adjustment, which will dim the LEDs, but in a very non-linear fashion. On a typical 40V (or 2x20V) strip, typically by the time you reach 32V/80%, the ...

Meanwhile, I was about to turn to jerky, not freeze! The CV drivers will act as CC at around their max current, and CV below that maximum. The B type driver has no current limiter adjustment at all. Note the fine print. Hardly anyone keeps ABs in stock at that voltage. If you wanted to current limit...