Microgreens with LED strips?

[unkle_psycho]

In absolute terms, Chinesium may work wonders, in quantity.

In relative terms, PCBs are printed circuit boards, and go through a multiple stage printing process (a few stages are usually done with specialized inkjets), and are then cut down to final boards. Whether aluminum backed, solid plastic, or fiberglass (most common), manufacturers make a single big panel, print it, drill it, plate it, and cut it (assuming 1-2 layer only). The costs are approximately the same for any panel with the same materials and coatings, regardless of how many final boards it makes. So, the more that can be cut from one panel, the cheaper each board can be.

Somehow I imagine that it would be a lot cheaper to make a board for say 8w/ sq ft rather then 40w/ sq ft, because it would face so much less heat? I mean the actual board material should be cheaper if less heat dissipation is needed?

[The_Mouse_Police]

Yes, which is why FR4 is used in so many standard strips...it's cheaper than an MCPCB, though poor for cooling. And why so many boards from small companies are MCPCBs, because they are easier to keep cool at high power.

[Deece]

Rather than do shelves I went with one long bench and fastened the 12 strips over 8 feet. At half draw 120W spread over 16 sqft is 7W/sqft so I think this is a good starting point to experiment.
But.... I only realized this when I was mostly done... I fastened them to wood thinking this is just a test setup that I'll change... Without thinking of the whole fire risk thing.
Can I get a verdict whether this is ok or flat out no? It is an hlg-240-20h, will be running .7A-1A across each strip at 20V in parallel. Anywhere from 8.4 to 12A.

Thanks

[TEKNIK]

You shouldn't run them on wood, some flat aluminum between the wood and the pcb at minimum, you maybe able to use angle also as a heat sink. Definitely power it up and check the current draw now you have done all that but don't leave it running for too long.

[Nuggie]

No wood ever, too dangerous.

[unkle_psycho]

I think everyone runs those weak flexible strips on all kinds of surfaces. Might get paranoid too, but attaching to wood sounds like something I would do

Thank god for nuggle tech dont need such solutions any more

[Deece]

Thanks guys, here's the latest build. I used some 1/2" EMT conduit I had laying around, which isn't particularly lightweight but it's pretty cheap.

This adds up to 30W per 5.4 sq ft of growing space (using Ikea shoe trays in lieu of 1020 trays) or 5.5W/sqft; certainly a good place to start. I'm feeling good about coverage and spacing but let me know if you have any concerns.

Now just have to wire it up.... What's the best wire to use for Bridgelux strips? I've read the connectors are hard to work 14 gauge into, and I am also having a hard time sourcing solid core 18 gauge wire... Do many here solder the ends of braided wire for these led light builds, or go strictly with solid core?

[ATPinMotion]

Great looking concept, love the conduit idea!

I haven't been able to source any solid core 18ga either... Been using mainly stranded 16ga.

With my first builds I just tinned the stranded ends with solder, welding the strands together. Worked great but takes time. Now I don't even do that, just twist the strands as tightly as I can and ram it home.

No problems disconnecting and reconnecting with either method - I always twist strands clockwise, and when disconnecting apply CCW torque to the wire as I pull.

[Deece]

With my first builds I just tinned the stranded ends with solder, welding the strands together. Worked great but takes time. Now I don't even do that, just twist the strands as tightly as I can and ram it home.

No problems disconnecting and reconnecting with either method - I always twist strands clockwise, and when disconnecting apply CCW torque to the wire as I pull.

Thanks for the reply! Good to know.