Hacks to support overweight colas?

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majorana
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I have a Blauberg extractor that does 520m3/h. At 36dB, and inside the tent, I'm perfectly happy with it: powerful, reliable, yet quiet. If I can find a dehumidifier that would be the same I'd happily invest. While in veg I keep it off, and RH is around 60-80%, depending on the weather. During flower between the extractor and the dehumidifiers I manage to keep the in-tent RH around 50% (+/-5).
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Sativant
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majorana wrote:
Tue Jun 26, 2018 9:12 am
I have a constant issue with the dehumidifier that would randomly fill up its internal rez (6L) instead of using the drainage pipe and then stop working. When that happens, about once a week, humidity skyrockets within hours. This thing is a major pain, making me go and check on it twice daily, and making me not fully recommend the Klarstein Drybest 35 (€260)
I’ve noticed with my dehumidifiers, they can refuse to use the drainage pipe if they’re not tilted ever so slightly in that direction to make sure the water goes into the pipe instead of the res.

I have a similar sounding grow area to you: a garage/basement that gets humid in the summer. I’m only able to keep the the high 60s during lights out (daytime). It gets drier during lights on. It’s hot here now, so I’ve turned my light down and my extractor all the way up. Of course, the dehumidifier makes it hotter, too, so I limit its use to lights out.
majorana
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Sad update: I noticed some browning of a couple of colas, which I thought was "burning" due to proximity to the lights.

After raising the height and waiting for 48h I saw the browning increase and spread. Only then, upon closer inspection, did I realize it's a mold infestation. (RH around 50%, +/-5.)

I quickly cut off, with a safety margin, the infested bud. I'd say at least 100gr of top fat colas. A shame, but it would be worse to see this continue to spread.

I planned on another week of feed before 5 days of flush, but I might cut that short. The reasoning would be that RH is easier to handle when the plants don't get 20L to evaporate every day. Your thoughts?
majorana
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For any of the pro growers who might be reading this:

Would bombing the tent with ozone be a good idea?

Besides killing the mold it would probably get rid of any fragrance the plant has developed so far, but perhaps with another 10 days that will recover?
majorana
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Ozone bombing it is.

Not because of the mold (I cut another 3 tips of nice, fat colas because they were looking mushy / browning) but because I bumped into a neighbor who said "The corridor is smelling like Amsterdam".

Mind you: two negative ion generators with HEPA filters, two carbon scrubbers, and an in-line 0.5g O3 generator. Tent is negative pressure at all times (walls caved in: so all air flow is always thru carbon filters+0.5g O3.)

It'll take a couple of days to dial in the timer for the bad boy 10g O3 generator. The plan is not to kill anybody (that's a liability, right?) and not have any smell (idem.)

Funny thing is my sense of smell isn't the best: quite frankly I can't notice much or any smell unless I stick my nose on the flowers. But that's a known defect of mine, and I tend to trust the words of my neighbor...
unkle_psycho
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Carbon filters failing is usually a sign of high moisture, just like the mold.... but the numbers don't sound bad.

I don't have any experience with ozone, but some experience with mold outside in super damp environments. I did a search on our most common molds, and identified the one affecting my plant. I noticed that the type of mold i had disintegrates from contact with sulfur, and does not manage in base environments, so first I waited until a warm windy moment and sprayed with msm, a type of edible sulfur I had around. When they dried, I sprayed them with a strong chaga tea, which is very base, and anti-everything. The existing molds stopped, and no further mold, at least significantly, came for the rest of the season.

Generally the places you need to follow for mold prevention is the pre-flower sights, which might be hidden behind buds. With time you learn to spot a specific type of wilt, which is calling you to look in at the root, and pluck out the affected pre-flowering sack before anything spreads.

Sorry to hear your still getting challenged by odors, with all the trouble you went through on that front.
"Nothing is true, everything is permitted"
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Sativant
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majorana wrote:
Fri Jul 06, 2018 9:03 am
Ozone bombing it is.

Not because of the mold (I cut another 3 tips of nice, fat colas because they were looking mushy / browning) but because I bumped into a neighbor who said "The corridor is smelling like Amsterdam".

Mind you: two negative ion generators with HEPA filters, two carbon scrubbers, and an in-line 0.5g O3 generator. Tent is negative pressure at all times (walls caved in: so all air flow is always thru carbon filters+0.5g O3.)

It'll take a couple of days to dial in the timer for the bad boy 10g O3 generator. The plan is not to kill anybody (that's a liability, right?) and not have any smell (idem.)

Funny thing is my sense of smell isn't the best: quite frankly I can't notice much or any smell unless I stick my nose on the flowers. But that's a known defect of mine, and I tend to trust the words of my neighbor...
That’s too bad. So far I haven’t grown anything that smells too much. A good thing, because my lab is in the garage, which is the main way most people enter our house. I hope your neighbor is cool.
Good luck with the ozone ! And I hope the rest of your harvest is successful.
Freeeg0
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For killing the strongest smell, it is essential that you couple the proper charcoal filter with the proper CFM fan
I always oversize my fan and charcoal set up. If the "stink density" gets too dense for the filter to handle on a single pass, just dial down the fan a bit. The filthiest kush will have absolutely ZER0 smell if coupled properly.

I worked in a basement for years, in very humid weather with no dehumidifier and very rarely got grey mold.
With Afghani #1 !!
Adjust airflow, circulation and ventilation. every leaf in the garden needs to be moving.
Gently touched directly from outside air if possible. If you can use your vent airflow as circulation. The driest available air is pulled DIRECTLY across the plant, then out, quickly.
Cut it out first sign. Go beyond the infection.
First sign will be a yellow wilting leaf IN the bigger colas. If a leaf looks suspect give it a tug, If it almost falls out get the scissors immediately and dig it out. In fact its a good idea to do a little tug test every other day or so as things get thick.
The mold is happening inside, out of sight.

I have also used paper clips to open up the bigger colas at the densest nodes and allow air to flow over.
Go with Sativa dominate growth pattern in a basement. Way less headache.
I realize you have already pulled probably....just 2cents :) and these adjustment def. worked for me.
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LEDG
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Great tips. Thanks for sharing.
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Freeeg0
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Great! Hope its helpful...I'll add one more thing.
Full two week flush for Hydro tapering to ZERO if possible...keeping it at least single digit for the last four days.
Typically its during the flush the Mold will happen, as the deficiencies kick in.
Keep your enzyme of choice in the flush resi. seems to help in defense, converting decomposing(due to long flush)roots into nutrients without adding any salts.
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