hello. back after a 10 year break from indoor growing . last time was with CFL and 600W HPS. i quit growing because i stopped smoking weed (and didn't wanna continue and sell it because it would hurt other people's lungs, and because it's illegal of course).
now i intend to grow a few different plants from seed in a 60cm x 60cm (2' x 2'), some of which i want to migrate to the balcony as soon as it's warm enough outside.
(in the future i might also start to use my other tent again which is 120cm x 120cm (4' x 4') and use it as a flowering room. but for this purpose i would then design another LED-strip fixture).
but for now i intend to power a few strips using a constant current mean well driver HLG-185H-24A. i understood that it's possible to set the current limit between 3.9A and 7.8A in order to drive some 22V or 23V strips "softly". please correct me if i'm wrong.
UPDATE April 3rd: added PAR curve to the spectral graphs
now I am not sure if i should go with the longer (560mm) F-series F562B / SI-B8T261560WW @ 4000K
or with the shorter (275mm) Q-series Q282A / SI-B8T051280US *where i get a discount at digikey for ordering 25pcs*
10x F562B cost about the same as 25x Q282A.
this equals 45000 lm vs 25000 lm.
i like that the Q are shorter, which makes them more flexible for DIY-use. and i certainly like the Q's higher efficiency , but would a softly driven F get more efficient than 175 Lm/w? is the q-series really that more efficient? or is it almost like a softly driven F-series with fewer LED's?
and how to interpret the "temperature test" difference between the two? the F-series gets to 65Β° at 1120mA while q-series gets to 40Β° @ 450mA?
COMPARISON:
samsung LM561C vs LM301B
- Jolly Green Giant
- LED Wizard
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first off welcome to the forum
the hlg-185h-24a is a Cc+Cv driver.. it will run in constant voltage unless at that voltage the amperage is too high for the strips.. then it would kick over to a constant current and bring the voltage back to equal the level needed. yes you can dim the amperage from 3.9 to 7.8 like you said.. with a "A" type it's the internal potentiometer.. one for Vo ( voltage) one for Io(amperage)
as for lm561c vrs lm301b efficiency... right now to me it's price related.. I would love to run all lm301b's but I would need 2-3 times as many diodes to hit my output. if on a budget F series.. if you can afford it Q series all day long!!
CCT... I love my 3500k lm561c quantum boards!!! great for veg + flower stages... I've been wanting to do a seedling / cloning light with the Q strips.. and was planning 3500k or 4000k for those. either diode in 3500k or 4000k would work awesome. even mixing the colors always fun ( but then you loose your 25+pieces price )
I'll leave the technical stuff for LG or others I'm more of a k.I.s.s ( keep it simple stupid) kind of guy.. I would be talking out my @$$ . I'm still a noob to this even though it's been almost a year since I started.
again welcome to the forum and the fun of DIY!!
the hlg-185h-24a is a Cc+Cv driver.. it will run in constant voltage unless at that voltage the amperage is too high for the strips.. then it would kick over to a constant current and bring the voltage back to equal the level needed. yes you can dim the amperage from 3.9 to 7.8 like you said.. with a "A" type it's the internal potentiometer.. one for Vo ( voltage) one for Io(amperage)
as for lm561c vrs lm301b efficiency... right now to me it's price related.. I would love to run all lm301b's but I would need 2-3 times as many diodes to hit my output. if on a budget F series.. if you can afford it Q series all day long!!
CCT... I love my 3500k lm561c quantum boards!!! great for veg + flower stages... I've been wanting to do a seedling / cloning light with the Q strips.. and was planning 3500k or 4000k for those. either diode in 3500k or 4000k would work awesome. even mixing the colors always fun ( but then you loose your 25+pieces price )
I'll leave the technical stuff for LG or others I'm more of a k.I.s.s ( keep it simple stupid) kind of guy.. I would be talking out my @$$ . I'm still a noob to this even though it's been almost a year since I started.
again welcome to the forum and the fun of DIY!!
thank you very muchJolly Green Giant wrote: βWed Feb 28, 2018 9:17 pmfirst off welcome to the forum
[...]
yes you can dim the amperage from 3.9 to 7.8 like you said..
[...]
CCT... I love my 3500k lm561c quantum boards!!!
[...]
I'm more of a k.I.s.s ( keep it simple stupid) kind of guy..
[...]
again welcome to the forum and the fun of DIY!!
great, thanks for reassuring me.
if u look again at the white vs blue curve i posted, to me it looks like 4000K would have been better than 3500K. but who am i to know
i like the planning and research part just as much, so i know exactly what i have
thanks again
- Jolly Green Giant
- LED Wizard
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I looked at the spectral graphs on HLG's website when I ordered my QB's... I just saw 3500k had a nice blue and red spike.. so I picked that lol again the keep it simple methodology
you might go on the lm561c dude, pretty sure we have to wait some "bin" to see the lm301b really beat the lm 561c s6, for the moment ill go on lm 561c s6 560mm double row of led on it, mixing between the 4000k ( very nice spectrum and green too) and the 2700k or 3000k.
cheers
cheers
ok i think i'll go with the F562B (SI-B8T261560WW)
how much more efficient than 175 lm/w will they get when i power them with 700mA instead of 1120mA. can this be found out using the samsung calculator? it is a pretty complicated tool. https://www.samsung.com/led/support/too ... alculator/
how much more efficient than 175 lm/w will they get when i power them with 700mA instead of 1120mA. can this be found out using the samsung calculator? it is a pretty complicated tool. https://www.samsung.com/led/support/too ... alculator/
Use the engine tool and it's far easier:tazztone wrote: βThu Mar 01, 2018 10:52 amok i think i'll go with the F562B (SI-B8T261560WW)
how much more efficient than 175 lm/w will they get when i power them with 700mA instead of 1120mA. can this be found out using the samsung calculator? it is a pretty complicated tool. https://www.samsung.com/led/support/too ... alculator/
https://www.samsung.com/led/support/too ... alculator/
Use "typical" for flux and voltage and you'll find that they'll run at 182 lumens per watt at 700mA.
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i went with some F562B CRI80 4000K to begin with.
now i made another comparison of spectrum of lm561C
90CRI vs 80CRI with a PAR curve for comparison
just thought it might be of interest to some
*90CRI are S3 bin, while 80CRI are S6 bin.
now i made another comparison of spectrum of lm561C
90CRI vs 80CRI with a PAR curve for comparison
just thought it might be of interest to some
*90CRI are S3 bin, while 80CRI are S6 bin.
Last edited by tazztone on Tue Apr 03, 2018 11:15 am, edited 1 time in total.
I ordered a 50-50 mix of 3500K@90CRI and 3000@80, I didn't realize that the blue spike of 3500@90 will be so prominent. It'll be interesting to see how the two interplay.