Need A Sanity Check On A New Build

A catch-all category for LED-related questions, content, news, rumors, or whatever. If it doesn’t fit elsewhere, put it here.
Post Reply
MrStoker
LED-Curious
LED-Curious
Reactions:
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2018 2:28 am

Been lurking around here for a few months now and have learned much. Thank you all for the information.

Can someone provide a sanity check for my strip build. This will be my first ever grow setup. Planning on a 3'×3'×6' tent with DWC hydroponics growing two plants at a time. Will have 4" carbon scrubber and extraction fan. Decided to bight the bullet and build a LED strip light.

The planned light build is as follows:

Qty 18 BXEB-L05607-35E2000 strips
Qty 1 HLG-240H-C700B LED driver
Qty 1 100K ohm potentiometer
Qty 18 24"×1" aluminum heatsinks
Qty 4 36"×0.75"×0.75"×0.125" aluminum angle
(Plus assorted connectors and wiring)

The plan is run all strips in series and drive them at a constant current of 700mA. This light will be dimmable to 50% if needed. Also, by having them in series and if 50% is too much intensity for early veg, can easily substitute some high power resistors in place of some of the strips. This will allow me to bring down intensity further but stay within driver's minimum voltage spec. Of course some of the angle will have to be cut down to fit tent and heatsinks. This build should be about 27W/sqft.

How does this sound as a light build for 3'×3' tent?

What kind of spacing between strips is recommended?

Would this run well with passive cooling?

Will the 3500K spectrum be sufficient for veg to flower?

Thanks for the help. :ugeek:
Mr. Stoker
Keeping the fire rolling.
J.R.R.Toking
LED Enthusiast
LED Enthusiast
Reactions:
Posts: 38
Joined: Thu Mar 15, 2018 9:40 pm

Hi, and welcome to the forum!

I'm kind of in your same boat, and waiting for parts to complete my first LED build. I can't answer everything you're asking, but I might be able to answer some stuff until the pros get here.

First of all, have you seen LEDG's post on example strip designs? There's one for 3' x 3', and I myself am trusting his judgement on my 4' x 4' LT-FB24B build, as I don't see trying to reinvent the wheel and am yielding to one who has exponentially more knowledge on the subject than do I. That said, your skill-set is different than mine, so what's right for me might not be right for you. You've probably read it (and maybe watched his videos), but here's the link:http://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-bu ... bridgelux/

I believe "B" type potentiometers should allow you to dim to @ 10%-100%, unless there's some issue with going below the CC driver's voltage range should you dim below 50% (again, I'm still learning this stuff myself...so please wait for one of the, "Pros from Dover" to chime in).

Installing eighteen 22 inch strips into a 3' x 3' area is going to be a job, and I don't see any viable option that excludes you needing to mount some vertically and horizontally on the frame's plane. It'll require @ $80 (shipped) of 1-inch heatsink (www.heatsinkusa.com) to do it right, or you could spend a little less using aluminum C-channel...but I opted to do mine using proper 2-inch heatsink (I'm using the wider Samsung LT-F24B 4-foot strips x 4).

Running that many strips in series MAY cause a voltage dropoff towards the end of your string, where the front strips will be brighter than those towards the end...IIRC (again, wait for the pros to chime in). If this is the case, you may need to wire everything up in parallel, or a combination of parallel/series. If you check out LEDG's build design using 15 of your strips, they are wired in parallel (5 groups of 3 strips each). However you wire it, I know LEDG suggests 18 gauge wire from Wago to strip and strip to strip (I think 18 is the thickest wire the strips' connectors can accept) and thicker, 14 gauge wire from Wago to Wago, for better safety. (But there's the boiler-plate disclaimer: Consult with a qualified electrician before assuming any info here as being more than just a casual guide!)

As far as the spectrum goes, either 3000k or 3500k was suggested to me as a very good all-around spectrum, with this grow-pro kind of leaning towards 3000k. After doing a bunch of research, I opted for the 3000k (as my space will be primarily used for flowering). That said, I've seen several stellar grows using 3500k. I did also get some 5000ks for a veg space I'm constructing.

So as a beginner just getting my feet wet, I'm deferring to the expertise of the site's administrator to design my first light; I trust he knows way more about this stuff than I do. But again, you may have a different skill set, so go with what you feel. There's more than one way to skin a cat, but until I get more knowledge, I will follow the example build design.

Good-luck, be safe, and again, welcome to the forum; it's a good one.

J.R.R.
Kiwi_Jezza
LED Enthusiast
LED Enthusiast
Reactions:
Posts: 45
Joined: Sun Jan 21, 2018 12:30 am

Sounds like a good amount of light for a 3x3. I made do with less than 30w/sqft with good results for a short while.

Using the light for dual purpose vege and flower, I would mix spectrums (some 3K and some 4K/5K) Straight 3500 just seems to lack the red to really drive flowering however this is completely personal opinion based on my experience.

Your single driver with 18 strips is going to give a stupid high voltage on that circuit of around 396v. Thats the problem with these CC driver and strips. 18x22 = 396. Mean Well lists 357v as max for that driver unless I got my wires crossed.

The 24v CV equivalent would be my pick. Make sure you get a version with adjustable voltage and current. Not sure if the version with external dimming supports this however. A 320 would give you more light and would still stay within the limits of the strips for current and thermal output.

Heat won't be an issue with your setup. The EB2 strips run will be very little cooling around that 700ma current. Good article on RIU covering extensive EB2 thermal tests. In saying that - its always good practise to have SOME airflow over heatsinks. Your plants will thank you also.

3 foot tent - 2 foot strips means a five or six inch gap at the end. I would simply space the strips to ensure that the same gap is mimicked at the other end as well, giving you a six inch perimeter right the way around. I've always found it a pain in the ass when the light is only slightly smaller than the space.

Hope that helps!
MrStoker
LED-Curious
LED-Curious
Reactions:
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2018 2:28 am

Thanks for the input.

J.R.R.: you mentioned voltage droop and I'd forgotten about taking that into account. Will have to rework my plan a little for combination series/parallel. My concern with going straight parallel is having strips die and the rest having to pick up the extra current. Also the variations of voltage drop from strip to strip.

Kiwi: was wondering where you'd gotten the 22VDC spec from? Best I could tell from the data sheet, at 700mA the nominal Vf should be 19.5VDC. That should give me around 351VDC. Not too concerned about high voltage, worked around it for many years.

The example designs presented at LEDG are good. Like was said; "why reinvent the wheel?" May very well use that design but, still concerned about driving the strips that hard. Would like to stay at 700mA for the max current since manufacturer specs that for 100% intensity (even though they show the strips can take twice that much). Should give better life span and have less heat issues.

As for the spectrum, the 3000K seemed a little low toward the 400nm end. Frankly since the data sheet doesn't show the 3500K spec it was a guess between 3000K and 4000K. When building something for veg to flower, should emphasis be on the red wavelengths over the blue?

The idea behind building an all purpose light was starting my grow experience using auto-flowers then graduate to photo-periods.

Thanks again for the touch of sanity. You've both given me something to think about.
Mr. Stoker
Keeping the fire rolling.
MrStoker
LED-Curious
LED-Curious
Reactions:
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2018 2:28 am

O.K., have reworked my planned build a little. The HLG-320H-20A should work. It looks to keep the current close to my desired 700mA if two more strips are added. The math shows at 15A spread over 20 strips the current pulled by each one is 750mA (will have to bump up the voltage setting of the driver to somewhere around 19.7VDC to achieve this). Gives me approx. 14.8W per strip for total 32.8W/sqft.

If my understanding of this driver is correct, the current can then be adjusted down to its minimum of 7.5A. This would give 375mA per strip. My assumption is the driver would then adjust the voltage output per the lower current draw. The voltage pot sets the maximum the driver will output to the system and adjusts current accordingly. And vice a versa.

Could somebody comment if this is correct or not.
Mr. Stoker
Keeping the fire rolling.
MrStoker
LED-Curious
LED-Curious
Reactions:
Posts: 5
Joined: Tue Mar 20, 2018 2:28 am

:oops: Oh yea, forgot to add; wiring all strips in parallel. Voltage droop is a real problem with this many devices in a series circuit. All those little bits of inefficiency stack up by the end of the road.
Mr. Stoker
Keeping the fire rolling.
Post Reply