Confirmation of Build / layout

[sdfoster22]

With the meanwell b versions use a 100kohm linear taper potentiometer, also called b100k potentiometer. The inline resistor is if you happen to get a potentiometer that isn't a true 100kohms. There is usually a tolerance of up to 10% with the cheaper ones. So they can vary between 90kohms -110kohms. Measure the resistance with the ohm setting of your multimeter. It looks kind of like a horseshoe.

Some b versions are reported to go a little over the max rating of the driver. Some people report you can get that by getting a potentiometer that goes above 100k, or by adding the resistor to get to 105k-110k.

If you have to, or decide to, add the resistor you are realistically taking from the bottom and adding to the top. If you happen to get a potentiometer that measures 92kohm resistance, and add a 10kohm resistor. You'll have 10%-102% dimming, 102% if the driver goes over max rating.

[demoneye]

Metal for frame has arrived. Cut to +/- 2mm tolerance so need to work through and ensure all sizes are correct.

[unkle_psycho]

At that price, it must be tempting to look at what a 3D printer could do for you Unkle_Psycho.

I sure have been looking into 3d printers. Quite inspiring. Been planning to buy one, but still trying to figure where to start with them.

One thing about our socialist paradise is that while buying stuff is expensive, the goverment throws so much stuff away. I just went to help some construction guys move house, and when I asked about aluminium, I received maybe 30m of extrusions (various shapes and sizes) in a few days. Left overs from government gigs.

I saw a really cool video of a guy attaching discrete diodes onto square extrusions, and printing a plastic structure that worked as a frame, and caps to the end of the extrusions. He even got his own logo on the end caps. Beautiful.

[demoneye]

Printing clips to hold Wago connectors to frame... Using an Anet A8 - can be picked up for about $150

[unkle_psycho]

There seems to be quite a lot of choice in the 150-250$ range. Some people warn about big chances of problems and disappointment with the cheap Chinese options. I have to admit I've been a little scared of being too stingy and ending up with a machine I can't complete/ use.

Looks great though!

[demoneye]

Maybe I should have said that $150 for printer, replacement frame cut from stainless steel, $200, replacement hot end and extruder, $150.

Out of the box Chinese knockoffs are getting better and cheaper everyday though...

[demoneye]

Frame is starting to come together. It's going to be 1.5m x 0.8m when complete but needs to break in two for transport.

Made a joining section using slightly larger angle and flat plate. These will bolt together to make four 1.5m lengths.

[demoneye]

6 main frame pieces drilled and joined (ready to break in half later). Will assemble and square before marking position of the 22 LED bar heatsinks ready for drilling.

[demoneye]

Roughly laid out heatsink/LED mountings - will square the frame then mark out for drilling...

[unkle_psycho]

Looking neat!