LEDgardener

So it seems only the hlg 185 has a voltage range to 40. The hlg 320 also has a range until 39v, don't know if that would also manage.
The 240 and 480 seem to be below the range

That’s interesting. I don’t personally use that large of driver so I hadn’t noticed.
Seems the larger drivers have the more narrow voltage adj range.
I wonder why this is.

Voltage adj range
120H-36 -> 33-40
150H-36 -> 33-40
185H-36 -> 33-40
240H-36 -> 33.5-38.5

If you want to use the dimmer, the ELG drivers dim to off. This is a big feature for me. The downside is that Meanwell derates the ELG's when supplied with 120V.

I'm running 3 EB gen II's on an elg-150-48. 120v mains. Works pretty good. 42 would be a better match but I have literally nothing else that runs at 40v so went with a driver capable of 48v because for me it's more versatile.

I'm planning an EB build without heatsinks, and would definatly prefere to use as large drivers as possible.

I'm wondering if the hlg 320-36 would be my best bet... having a voltage adjustment range until 39v. At 550mA they should pull about 38.6v, so even if it could not power them at 700mA, adding a few extra strips should fix any issues?

How common is it for strips to be out of spec? is it better to assume the worst, since the datasheet does say there is some minor tolerance +- on the strips voltage? Has anyone heard of builds too close to spec limits, that didn't work?

unkle_psycho wrote: ↑

Sat Mar 02, 2019 9:14 am

How common is it for strips to be out of spec? is it better to assume the worst, since the datasheet does say there is some minor tolerance +- on the strips voltage? Has anyone heard of builds too close to spec limits, that didn't work?

I really need to get some to try out!! lol I've been wondering this also.. one build I was thinking of ( 6 4' EB gen 2's on a hlg-240h-c1050 )puts the typical voltage over by 2V on a CC driver... but within the "over" voltage number on the driver.. ( you know they say xx-xxx voltage range, just below on the datasheets there's the "over" voltage max.) but if they run more than typical, they won't fit.. ( typical voltage is 40v at 1050ma.. the max voltage is 42.2V.. 253.2 volts if all ran max over 240V at typical)

I'm just curious to see what happens...

How is the voltage set in parallel wiring? Is the system voltage set by the strip that pulls highest, or is it an average of what the strips pull?

What factors do I have to help keep voltage down? Wire length/ thickness, diode temperature, current?

If long wires can cause a voltage drop, is it possible to use this when you are close to the limit? Like if I go for the 320-36 with a 39v limit, and my strips don't light, I could add a few meters of wiring to reduce voltage into spec???

Voltage is set by driver using Vpot on a 320-36A.

I have tested many many 1' strips wired in parallel on a 80-20A, and wired in combo S/P on a 185-36A with amazing results.
At 20v every strip hits a bulls eye with a handful pulling only 15mA more constantly.
In 2s3p every pair is on point at 39v-39.2v with equal split current.

I was most interested in testing the voltage between the 3 different batches iv ordered each with a different Lot#. Each of the three lots tested the same.

unkle_psycho wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 03, 2019 12:06 pm

How is the voltage set in parallel wiring? Is the system voltage set by the strip that pulls highest, or is it an average of what the strips pull?

What factors do I have to help keep voltage down? Wire length/ thickness, diode temperature, current?

If long wires can cause a voltage drop, is it possible to use this when you are close to the limit? Like if I go for the 320-36 with a 39v limit, and my strips don't light, I could add a few meters of wiring to reduce voltage into spec???

But if the strip demands 39.2v and the hlg 320-36 can only be set to 39v I am already in trouble right? Or I guess then I just need to run it softer or add more wire or something

unkle_psycho wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 03, 2019 12:06 pm

How is the voltage set in parallel wiring? Is the system voltage set by the strip that pulls highest, or is it an average of what the strips pull?

What factors do I have to help keep voltage down? Wire length/ thickness, diode temperature, current?

If long wires can cause a voltage drop, is it possible to use this when you are close to the limit? Like if I go for the 320-36 with a 39v limit, and my strips don't light, I could add a few meters of wiring to reduce voltage into spec???

If you get into the scenario where your lights don't light up you need to reduce length of wiring to reduce voltage into spec for the driver.

If you increase wire thickness you decrease voltage drop and longer wires cause a larger voltage drop. So if you wanted to keep voltage down go with the largest dia. wire allowable for strips and keep the runs as short as possible with one large wago or a few large wago's instead of the 2 or 3 bangers - depending on how strips you run it may not always be cut and dried.

Hydrofood wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 03, 2019 1:26 pm

Voltage is set by driver using Vpot on a 320-36A.

I have tested many many 1' strips wired in parallel on a 80-20A, and wired in combo S/P on a 185-36A with amazing results.
At 20v every strip hits a bulls eye with a handful pulling only 15mA more constantly.
In 2s3p every pair is on point at 39v-39.2v with equal split current.

I was most interested in testing the voltage between the 3 different batches iv ordered each with a different Lot#. Each of the three lots tested the same.

For circuits that go from strictly parallel to a combination of series and parallel then the series component takes your voltage tolerance and doubles it.

If your voltage tolerance range for the strip in question is 24V with a +or-1 V

A 2sx3p voltage tolerance would now be + or - 2 V
A 3sx3p voltage tolerance would now be + or - 3 V

I guess this means that the more you put in series on a combination circuit the higher risk you run of having larger differences in current.