where are the nichia optisolis growers?

[overdriver]

very interesting thoughts @TEKNIK
What do you mean with efficiency will improve over time? Like running them over time so they age like a fine wine or with new models being released each year?

What do you think would be the best growing light at the moment?

Your post sounded a bit like you are a reseller for LEDs thats why I was asking about an online store
Or do you run a good old fashioned offline store?

Yeah the red light is a really nice warm spectrum. What item is this in Cutter's store?

[TEKNIK]

Efficiency will improve as technology improves, currently the blue leds to create a spectrum like optisolis is at around 60% efficient. Improvements are being made each year but they are small improvements compared to about 5 years ago when efficiency was jumping by 15% per year.
I am a wholesaler and don't really advertise as I am too busy as it is, right now I am not set up to deal with small sales as it takes up too much of my time and for me right now I am better off chasing $10,000 sales rather than $100 sales. That may change in the future as I get organised a bit more.

The best lights in my opinion are DIY strip builds, I intend to manufacturer some pretty unique strips for DIY soon, I need to do more tests though and it takes time to get this together, I don't want to release a half arsed product as it is not my nature.

https://www.cutter.com.au/product/cutte ... 50-pc-red/

[TEKNIK]

http://ledgardener.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=4714
I made some combinations of the PC red which you can view here.

[overdriver]

Thank you very much.
But is the red chip suitable for a grow light? dont we run into the same problem of the phosphor layer being less efficient than monos?

I have read a lot of threads here and have some LEDs myself. I agree that strips seem to be the best atm. Not saying that COB are bad but I just prefer the strip builds.
But I cant remember reading anywhere your opinion on the recent best building option. ( like what ratio between strips and monos, spectrum etc.)

Asking because I need a new light and I'm always wondering which strips to use. Before discovering the optisolis I wanted to go with the EB gen 3 series with 660 and 730 monos. Maybe some 430 and few UV.
But I'm totally lost at what ratio... do i just suppelement a few 660 and even less 730 or do I add a significant amount of 660nm.
Do you maybe know of any source for cree XPE-2 660nm strips besides cutter? (really nothing against cutter.. I love this shop but it would be easier for me because of trouble with customs to source it from anywhere else but australia)

At first I wanted to just supplement a few 660nm with even less 730nm for the emerson effect, but then read about a LED called Sanlight Q6W. They pretty much perform as good as the fluence spyderx but use a very different approach:
https://www.sanlight.com/wp-content/upl ... 092018.pdf

As you can see they use much less LEDs and about 53% are just red mono's. They have their chips custom made by phillips.
Considering how hard they are driving the LEDS to reach the wattage its obvious that the LEDs arent run very efficient like the fluence with its tons of LEDs. But they still perform quite equally.
They also have a higher peak at 640nm than the peak at 660nm. Im also a bit puzzled by the 440nm peak... The company claims they chose it so the plant wont produce more leafs than it needs. Called it hormonal controll.
People also report no stretching and very short nodes despite this little blue and high red ratio,

considering how well they perform I thought maybe it is true and the balance of a grow light should be more towards the red area...

I would really love to hear your (and of course everybody else's) thoughts on this.

edit: of course I meant the sanlight performs as good as the fluence in g/watt. Not like the 200 watt can beat the 600 watt in total.

[TEKNIK]

If you are chasing the highest efficiency than PC red may not be for you, one thing to consider about strip builds though is proximity to the canopy, although PC red on its own is not fantastic it will have very high performance in a strip build when run close to the canopy. You can have a 2 micromouls per joule fixture provide higher PAR at the canopy than a 4 micromouls per joule fixture than needs to be hung really high.
Leds are efficient because of form factor and being able to keep them close to the plants.

Regarding different combinations it's really upto you, so long as there is enough photons plants seem to work it out. I do believe that adding more green and amber to the spectrum helps red work better.
I don't know the ratios exactly, no-one does and I am not the sort of guy to make a false claim and say I have the perfect spectrum as that is BS. With trials I have done most strains seem to like a heavy red although some did better than others.

[unkle_psycho]

I just ordered 32 of those PC red diodes... was planning to blast them pretty hard.... not a good idea then?

I figured they would not be that efficient, but would 'fix' the red end of a 80cri spectrum pretty well. Being on the starboard, and on an extrusion, you still would not run them higher?

Also I was thinking that these have maybe 3:1 660:730, is there any risk of shade avoidance?

Sanlight is pretty cool, the frame is designed in a way that you can take of the old leds and instal new ones when they upgrade, so its recyclable. The fresh approach at the spectrum is nice too.

[TEKNIK]

I just ordered 32 of those PC red diodes... was planning to blast them pretty hard.... not a good idea then?

I figured they would not be that efficient, but would 'fix' the red end of a 80cri spectrum pretty well. Being on the starboard, and on an extrusion, you still would not run them higher?

Also I was thinking that these have maybe 3:1 660:730, is there any risk of shade avoidance?

Sanlight is pretty cool, the frame is designed in a way that you can take of the old leds and instal new ones when they upgrade, so its recyclable. The fresh approach at the spectrum is nice too.

Some phosphors have problems with heat, although those PC reds can be pushed to 4W easily the phosphor will deteriorate faster than a normal white.
When the longevity tests were done the red became unstable over 2W, it won't blow the led but the red phosphor will color shift and will start to turn purple.

Green phosphor burns out faster than red, If that was a PC green then 1.2w would be the maximum stable power.
This doesn't have anything to do with the heatsink, it's the photons that burn the phosphor regardless of how good the heatsink is.
If you are planning to replace them in 12 months then it's not a big deal but I always look at long term.

[Welight]

This is the 2700k Optisolis Spectrum

[Welight]

Do you maybe know of any source for cree XPE-2 660nm strips besides cutter? (really nothing against cutter.. I love this shop but it would be easier for me because of trouble with customs to source it from anywhere else but australia)

what customs issues do you see from Aus, what country are you in?
tomorrow we start shipping the new 2 channel red strip, The NEW XPG-3 Deep Red, 12 leds, can be all 660 or two channels, one 660, one 730 or 6x 660 and 6x UVA etc etc
Cheers
Mark

[YYCannabis]

@Welight What is the coverage area for the dbl channel with 680 and UVA?