LEDgardener

Yes I know it's not the most powerful one.
I also know it's not gonna be the very efficient one. But it's doing job well

It does include 4x custom spectrum Cree COBs 30W and 2x growmau5 red pucks a addition...
Crees are powered by HLG 150 24B so they are dimmable.
Pucks are powered by some cheap meanwell ( APV 25 12 ).

Cooling is provided by 6mm aluminium sheet with two pieces of scrap aluminium heatsink mounted on the top of that. There are also some low noise fans on the top.

The light isn't finished as I'm waiting for bunch of sonoffs that are on the way.

After sonoffs come, one dual channel sonoff will be operating light ( 12 hours COBs and 30 minutes for pucks ).

This is a super cool DIY. I love the addition of your red pucks. Which cobs did you choose and how is the heat management going with it and the fans?

COBs are custom made from company called Topled ( China based ).
These are Cree LEDs in array and running @1.2A 24V ( it's dimmable ).

I can't measure exact temperature because I don't have laser thermometer, however they are running cool. I might take the fans off or just put them on time switch like ten on ten of or something like that.

I like the use of the project box to keep the electrical connections hidden and safe.

Thank you , well it would be real mess if left without box I guess

(There is a picture of it without box in attachment, it was really hard to squeeze everything in it )

Btw I have a question about driver:

I have a lights and they are pulling about 175W from the wall each. It has some crap China drivers inside (three drivers each) that are rated @650mA

Basically they are GN MS0006 lights.

I think the easiest replacement for each of them would be ELG-200-C700B.

But when I'm looking at datasheet I'm thinking why shouldn't I try to go for ELG-200-C1050B?

With C1050B I could go in range of 525-1050mA
while with C700B I could only use 350-700mA.

Cooling on the lights is upgraded so that's not an issue if I run them let's say @850mA max

I like the idea of running them slightly harder a bit when needed.

I know that some people will say that these epistar chips are not very efficient and I completely agree on this. But I have always best results using these lights ( they have been redesigned completely, including custom spectrum ).

There is a picture of Chinese driver in attachment.

The C700 and C1050 are both designed to work at >100v.

Your current driver supplies 32-50VDC at the output. If you are planning to change the wiring and put all your engines in series, in sure you could make it work.

Elg240-54B will be a much better direct replacement though.

Do you have the ability to measure the the output of each channel (volts and amps) of your existing driver?

Im impressed with your DIY cob fixture. Do you know what wavelengths those custom Chinese COBs are providing?

Cheers!

It's MS0006 so there is 6 boards with 15 epistars on. One driver runs two boards.


I'm lazy to strip it down now . I want to strip it down when new drivers comes. Im sure I measured it last time when one of the fans failed on it. But I can't remember what the measurement was

I think I'll just go with that 1050B and will put them all in series. All the other lights I got I prefer parallel wiring.


Of course I know wavelengths. I've designed it it's very old light I got it over two years now, I've just rebuild it a bit.
In attachment there is a screenshot of the layout of PCB.


I can confirm that this spectrum works great and if in the future I'll be building some more lights I will definitely use some similar if not same COBs in combination with Samsung strips. Still thinking about sell all my lights I got and build one "ultimate light"