Hi everyone,
I've been lurking here for the past few days trying to gather some information, and working towards a build.
This is my first foray into hydroponics, and I'm looking for a good lighting solution for a small basement set up in which i'm going to start with simple greens like lettuce and basil. I'm thinking of using 4ft long tubes in an NFT setup, and was looking at the FB22B strips with the Lm561c diodes. https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/6624011
I was thinking of using 1 of these 4 foot strips over each 4 ft NFT tube. I was inspired by "lane's build" in the blog post, and wanted to try something similar but with nft tubes underneath the strips. Would 1 strip per tube be adequate lighting? I'm not sure how the spread of the light works and how to get the PAR/PPFD values on these strips. Is an approximate conversion of lumens to par for this diode's output spectrum that anyone has measured?
Also, when it comes to driving the strips, I was hoping to just hook them up to a constant 46v power supply and let them draw the amperage that they need to run, with the hopes of just being able to add more strips in the future at the same voltage. However, it seems that the math is more complex than this, and I am seeking some guidance in the best way to go about it. Also, why are strips normally driven at less than 100%? How much is the life of the strip affected by running at full power? Also regarding power, I noticed that the spec sheet shows data at 1.12A (max wattage 54) whereas the parallel calculator shows a max amperage of 1.8A (9 rows of 200ma diodes?) (max wattage 87.8). How does this work in regards to the whole power supplying issue?
Please and thank you for your help!
Newbie needs help with first build
Hey there!
I'm thinking that one of those FB-22B will be a great match for an NFT tube of the same length. Unfortunately there isn't really a reliable lumen to PAR conversion.
Using a big 48V driver is a good idea for these things. However, if your driver can do way more current than the strips can take, you just need to be sure to turn the voltage down on it so they don't pull too much of this current. If you got the type A driver, you could do this by turning the voltage dial down on the driver. If you got the Type B, turning the potentiometer down would have the same effect.
Normally, people don't run LEDs at 100% of their absolute max because it produces a lot of heat, it reduces their lifespan, it increases the chance that they will go into thermal runaway if they're wired in parallel, and it really reduces their efficiency.
On the spec sheet, the current they listed for this strip (1.12A) is their test current. All other values you see in that table are specific to this current level only. This is not the maximum for the strip, it's just the level they picked to do their testing and produce data. I determined the strip maximums by doing the math on a per-diode basis, using the Samsung LM561C calculator.
I'm thinking that one of those FB-22B will be a great match for an NFT tube of the same length. Unfortunately there isn't really a reliable lumen to PAR conversion.
Using a big 48V driver is a good idea for these things. However, if your driver can do way more current than the strips can take, you just need to be sure to turn the voltage down on it so they don't pull too much of this current. If you got the type A driver, you could do this by turning the voltage dial down on the driver. If you got the Type B, turning the potentiometer down would have the same effect.
Normally, people don't run LEDs at 100% of their absolute max because it produces a lot of heat, it reduces their lifespan, it increases the chance that they will go into thermal runaway if they're wired in parallel, and it really reduces their efficiency.
On the spec sheet, the current they listed for this strip (1.12A) is their test current. All other values you see in that table are specific to this current level only. This is not the maximum for the strip, it's just the level they picked to do their testing and produce data. I determined the strip maximums by doing the math on a per-diode basis, using the Samsung LM561C calculator.
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Thanks for the info!
So is the idea that by lowering the voltage on the power supply, they will use less wattage at the same amperage that they were going to pull? so like use 100% amperage, but they'll be fed less voltage?
Also, why is it required to use a meanwell power supply? They are super expensive.. I was looking at the hlg-320h-48A and it's $93. Why can't a simple power supply be used? such as https://www.amazon.com/GENSSI-Regulated ... B005CLBZRO
Are there any cheaper solutions for going about powering the led strips?
So is the idea that by lowering the voltage on the power supply, they will use less wattage at the same amperage that they were going to pull? so like use 100% amperage, but they'll be fed less voltage?
Also, why is it required to use a meanwell power supply? They are super expensive.. I was looking at the hlg-320h-48A and it's $93. Why can't a simple power supply be used? such as https://www.amazon.com/GENSSI-Regulated ... B005CLBZRO
Are there any cheaper solutions for going about powering the led strips?
Last edited by parthitis on Mon Oct 30, 2017 5:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Voltage and current are tied together. As you lower one, the other will lower as well, and power, in Watts, is the product of voltage times current. Drivers can operate by either controlling the voltage (constant voltage drivers) or controlling the current (constant current drivers). They both achieve the same outcome (increasing or decreasing the brightness of the LED by adjusting the current) in different ways and with often with different wiring methodologies (usually series for CC, parallel for CV).
Everyone uses Mean Well drivers because:
- They’re a high quality product
- They’re safer (shocks and fires are bad!)
- They have a wicked warranty
If you are willing to take the risk of running a no-name driver to save money, that’s your call for sure. I will always recommend spending the money for peace of mind though.
Everyone uses Mean Well drivers because:
- They’re a high quality product
- They’re safer (shocks and fires are bad!)
- They have a wicked warranty
If you are willing to take the risk of running a no-name driver to save money, that’s your call for sure. I will always recommend spending the money for peace of mind though.
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Hey thanks, I definitely understand what you're saying about the drivers.
So in summary, I can hook up the 2 strips to a 320w or 500w 48v constant voltage power supply, and just drop the voltage down 1-2 volts to prevent using the strips at full power or having thermal runaway. Then, in the future, if I want to add more strips, I can just add more in parallel up until I hit the amperage capacity of the power supply. Is this correct?
Also, do you know how far the led strips throw light at a traditional height (18-24"?). I'm wondering if 1 strip can cover 2 rows of plants (would be roughly 1 ft width) or should I stick to 1 strip per row? Also, I understand that blue light is better for vegetative and red is better for fruiting. I was thinking of 4000k as being in between the two, but should I go for the 5000k if i'm growing greens? What are the generally recommended color temperatures?
So in summary, I can hook up the 2 strips to a 320w or 500w 48v constant voltage power supply, and just drop the voltage down 1-2 volts to prevent using the strips at full power or having thermal runaway. Then, in the future, if I want to add more strips, I can just add more in parallel up until I hit the amperage capacity of the power supply. Is this correct?
Also, do you know how far the led strips throw light at a traditional height (18-24"?). I'm wondering if 1 strip can cover 2 rows of plants (would be roughly 1 ft width) or should I stick to 1 strip per row? Also, I understand that blue light is better for vegetative and red is better for fruiting. I was thinking of 4000k as being in between the two, but should I go for the 5000k if i'm growing greens? What are the generally recommended color temperatures?
Yup, you've got it.
Those strips will cover 1 foot no problem if you center it between the tubes.
I'm partial to lower temperatures. My 4000K strips are doing work right now on some bell peppers. I'd probably run 4000K myself but you really can't go wrong, especially with greens. I also used these 4000K strips to grow lettuce, kale, swiss chard, and basil in my last grow a couple months back.
Those strips will cover 1 foot no problem if you center it between the tubes.
I'm partial to lower temperatures. My 4000K strips are doing work right now on some bell peppers. I'd probably run 4000K myself but you really can't go wrong, especially with greens. I also used these 4000K strips to grow lettuce, kale, swiss chard, and basil in my last grow a couple months back.
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I just got the strips and power supply in. I hooked them up for a test run and wow are these strips bright! They are blinding!
Just a few questions - how do you use the quick connect adapters on the strips? I put 14 gauge solid wire in there but it doesn't stay in. I tried pushing on the top tab but it doesn't do anything. What am I doing wrong?
Currently the strips are spontaneously pulling 1.4-1.45A with 48V. It seems like they are only pulling about 75% amperage with full voltage allotment.. What are your thoughts on that?
Also, Where do you get the aluminium U-channels? The strips seem like they do run hot with just a few minutes of being on. I was looking around for potential heatsinks but haven't come up with anything great. I was thinking about maybe using 4ft aluminium rulers that I found for about $4 a piece. What do you think?
Just a few questions - how do you use the quick connect adapters on the strips? I put 14 gauge solid wire in there but it doesn't stay in. I tried pushing on the top tab but it doesn't do anything. What am I doing wrong?
Currently the strips are spontaneously pulling 1.4-1.45A with 48V. It seems like they are only pulling about 75% amperage with full voltage allotment.. What are your thoughts on that?
Also, Where do you get the aluminium U-channels? The strips seem like they do run hot with just a few minutes of being on. I was looking around for potential heatsinks but haven't come up with anything great. I was thinking about maybe using 4ft aluminium rulers that I found for about $4 a piece. What do you think?
You can lift that little tab up and see whats going on with the wire inside the connector. The connectors are meant for 18-24 gauge solid wire, but I've used 14 gauge just fine. Also make sure you've stripped enough of the plastic off so that it goes in all the way.parthitis wrote: ↑Fri Nov 10, 2017 2:49 pmI just got the strips and power supply in. I hooked them up for a test run and wow are these strips bright! They are blinding!
Just a few questions - how do you use the quick connect adapters on the strips? I put 14 gauge solid wire in there but it doesn't stay in. I tried pushing on the top tab but it doesn't do anything. What am I doing wrong?
Currently the strips are spontaneously pulling 1.4-1.45A with 48V. It seems like they are only pulling about 75% amperage with full voltage allotment.. What are your thoughts on that?
Also, Where do you get the aluminium U-channels? The strips seem like they do run hot with just a few minutes of being on. I was looking around for potential heatsinks but haven't come up with anything great. I was thinking about maybe using 4ft aluminium rulers that I found for about $4 a piece. What do you think?
Regarding the voltage, there is a significant amount of voltage variation in these strips, and leds in general. We know that each strip has 9 parallel strings with 16 diodes wired in series in each string (its in the datasheet). So your 1.45 amps is being divided 9 times to equal 161mA. Using the samsung calculator shown below, we can figure out what the voltage per diode would be.
- Capture1.JPG (53.7 KiB) Viewed 1708 times
Since they dont sell the strips by voltage bins, there really isnt a way to know exactly what the voltage to current relationship would be for each strip. The datasheet gives a range, and yours is within that range.
Any big box store will sell aluminum U channels. At my home depot its in the same aisle as the nuts and bolts. For not too much more you can buy actual heatsinks from heatsinkusa.com. Hope that helps!
What he said ^
Did you measure voltage to be sure? Is it exactly 48.0V? A few tenths of a volt make a big difference... current will be significantly higher for 48.3V compared to 48.0V.
Did you measure voltage to be sure? Is it exactly 48.0V? A few tenths of a volt make a big difference... current will be significantly higher for 48.3V compared to 48.0V.
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You have to give a good push to seat the wire in the connector, and yes make sure it is stripped the proper length. How to get it out again is what I need to know. 
If you are in Canada and have a Princess Auto where you live they have a sale on aluminum stock.
https://www.princessauto.com/en/b/works ... l/N-6dfqwc
If you are in Canada and have a Princess Auto where you live they have a sale on aluminum stock.https://www.princessauto.com/en/b/works ... l/N-6dfqwc