What kind of load are you giving it? It reads like you might be under-driving or under-loading things a bit.
So, that controller allows overdriving, to 11.5V. I do not know if the drivers respond to direct voltage input over 10V like they do resistance over 100kOhm. Does it show that as 115%? If it shows it as 100%, then 60% on the dimmer control side should be like 70% on the driver itself. If the driver is given a 8-10A load, it should dim linearly from 10V down to around 5V, with >10V undefined and <5 often not being linear.
Constant Voltage Dimming
I know what you mean, without my meters and running a few analysis and actually doing it none of these discoveries would have been made.
But I am starting to realize that maybe so what my dimming doesn't start until 60% and then starts to dim after that. So with my 480-48ab I can just set the voltage to what I want so each boards get that and only that (~2.7)even if everything gets disconnected and just 1 is left. Also just so customizable with this driver fine tuning wise.
Vs running say a 480-2100b and running a 2s2p or full series, whatever and making sure I am hitting the required currents/voltage. Buttt at least will be loaded always and dimming will be bueno. But would never be able to get boards higher than 2.1 like the 2.7 I am able to do in the up top scenario.
Edit: I discovered that my 480-48b 10amp driver with both IO/VO pots fully open that the driver actually outputs 12amps over the 10amps it says it does...which is why I was confused that how when I gave every board 2.5-2.7 it wasn't maxing out and still had dead space when dimming. So to correct this dead space and allow my Trolmaster(Will call it electronic dimmer for everyone else's sake) to start the dimming at 100% like I wanted vs the 60% it started I was able to adjust my VO pot to get the boards current where I want and THEN dim the IO pot very slowly where no changes were occurring obviously since VO was limited and until the dimming of the IO pot showed a very very slight change on my current I left it in that position so now that simulated the driver being fully loaded and was able to dim starting at 100%. Hopefully this makes sense.
Let me know what y'all think.
But I am starting to realize that maybe so what my dimming doesn't start until 60% and then starts to dim after that. So with my 480-48ab I can just set the voltage to what I want so each boards get that and only that (~2.7)even if everything gets disconnected and just 1 is left. Also just so customizable with this driver fine tuning wise.
Vs running say a 480-2100b and running a 2s2p or full series, whatever and making sure I am hitting the required currents/voltage. Buttt at least will be loaded always and dimming will be bueno. But would never be able to get boards higher than 2.1 like the 2.7 I am able to do in the up top scenario.
Edit: I discovered that my 480-48b 10amp driver with both IO/VO pots fully open that the driver actually outputs 12amps over the 10amps it says it does...which is why I was confused that how when I gave every board 2.5-2.7 it wasn't maxing out and still had dead space when dimming. So to correct this dead space and allow my Trolmaster(Will call it electronic dimmer for everyone else's sake) to start the dimming at 100% like I wanted vs the 60% it started I was able to adjust my VO pot to get the boards current where I want and THEN dim the IO pot very slowly where no changes were occurring obviously since VO was limited and until the dimming of the IO pot showed a very very slight change on my current I left it in that position so now that simulated the driver being fully loaded and was able to dim starting at 100%. Hopefully this makes sense.
Let me know what y'all think.