Samsung F Series

[Eph3m3ral]

If I was to use the HLG-240H-48A to power 3 of the F series LT-FB24B. Would I be able to run them at 1400mA? 1050mA? How much could I adjust the current?

[Takeshy]

HLG-240H-48A has 5A of Output Rated Current,
divided by 3 strips = 1.667A or 1667mA per strip
(each diode at 185mA)

[Eph3m3ral]

Thanks for the response.
I understand that they would share the 5a. I was confused about the HLG-240H-48A being constant current/constant voltage and if adjusting the current would drop the voltage below 46v.

I already got an answer to my question though i'm still wondering how the current would effect the voltage on this driver.

[LEDG]

HLG-240H-48A has 5A of Output Rated Current,
divided by 3 strips = 1.667A or 1667mA per strip
(each diode at 185mA)

Hey Takeshy. I think you might have the FB24B mixed up with the F562B (I struggle to keep all these model names straight myself). The 1.67A will get split 18 ways per strip on these ones so we'll have a total of 93mA per diode.

Eph3m3ral, as Takeshy said, you'll get 1.67 amps per board to play with. You can dim these A-type drivers to 50% of their current output, which would be 2.5A. After you divide this among 3 strips, this would mean your lower limit would be 833mA per strip or 46mA per diode, which is like 25% of their max.

[LEDG]

Thanks for the response.
I understand that they would share the 5a. I was confused about the HLG-240H-48A being constant current/constant voltage and if adjusting the current would drop the voltage below 46v.

I already got an answer to my question though i'm still wondering how the current would effect the voltage on this driver.

If you run this driver wide open at 24V on these 3 strips without dimming it, they will kick it over into constant current mode after they pull all the current from it. Here's what happens when you max out a "constant voltage + constant current" driver that isn't being dimmed... I'll use the 240H-48A and your strips as an example:

- You turn your driver on, and immediately it goes "I'm a constant voltage 48V driver - I'm going to output exactly 48V"
- Your strips see 48V and every one of them will go: "Holy shit, 48V? at 48V, I want to pull 2.9A" (this is a quick estimate using the samsung calculator)
- Off the bat, every strip sees 48V and tries to pull 2.9A; 3 of them totals 8.7A of current draw
- Your driver goes "Jesus! you guys want 8.7A of current!? I can't supply that - tell you what, I'm going to give you everything I've got, which is 5A (maybe a little more, usually you get a little extra), and I'm gonna hold this steady"
- The strips say "Okay, well that's only 1.67A of current each, and at that current, the voltage across us will only be 46.2V" (again, I determined this from the samsung calculator)
- The driver says "No sweat. I'll lower my voltage to 46.2V to match and will keep giving you all the current I've got"

And that's what you end up with. In this case, each strip would be getting 46.2V*1.67A = ~77W. Total system power = 77W * 3 = 231W

[Eph3m3ral]

Where did you find the calculator for the LT-FB24B? I didn't see it listed on the Samsung calculator list.

[Takeshy]

HLG-240H-48A has 5A of Output Rated Current,
divided by 3 strips = 1.667A or 1667mA per strip
(each diode at 185mA)

Hey Takeshy. I think you might have the FB24B mixed up with the F562B (I struggle to keep all these model names straight myself). The 1.67A will get split 18 ways per strip on these ones so we'll have a total of 93mA per diode.

Eph3m3ral, as Takeshy said, you'll get 1.67 amps per board to play with. You can dim these A-type drivers to 50% of their current output, which would be 2.5A. After you divide this among 3 strips, this would mean your lower limit would be 833mA per strip or 46mA per diode, which is like 25% of their max.

My bad

[LEDG]

Where did you find the calculator for the LT-FB24B? I didn't see it listed on the Samsung calculator list.

I used the calculator for the individual LM561C and did the math.

[Tony]

If you run this driver wide open at 24V on these 3 strips without dimming it, they will kick it over into constant current mode after they pull all the current from it. Here's what happens when you max out a "constant voltage + constant current" driver that isn't being dimmed... I'll use the 240H-48A and your strips as an example:

- You turn your driver on, and immediately it goes "I'm a constant voltage 48V driver - I'm going to output exactly 48V"
- Your strips see 48V and every one of them will go: "Holy shit, 48V? at 48V, I want to pull 2.9A" (this is a quick estimate using the samsung calculator)
- Off the bat, every strip sees 48V and tries to pull 2.9A; 3 of them totals 8.7A of current draw
- Your driver goes "Jesus! you guys want 8.7A of current!? I can't supply that - tell you what, I'm going to give you everything I've got, which is 5A (maybe a little more, usually you get a little extra), and I'm gonna hold this steady"
- The strips say "Okay, well that's only 1.67A of current each, and at that current, the voltage across us will only be 46.2V" (again, I determined this from the samsung calculator)
- The driver says "No sweat. I'll lower my voltage to 46.2V to match and will keep giving you all the current I've got"

And that's what you end up with. In this case, each strip would be getting 46.2V*1.67A = ~77W. Total system power = 77W * 3 = 231W

Just to get this straight in my head. For an HLG H series driver:

CV Mode: Power driver with V pot minimum, C pot maximum, adjust V pot until desired system current reached.

CC Mode: Power driver with C pot minimum, V pot maximum, adjust C pot until desired system current reached.

Is this thinking correct?

[LEDG]

Just to get this straight in my head. For an HLG H series driver:

CV Mode: Power driver with V pot minimum, C pot maximum, adjust V pot until desired system current reached.

CC Mode: Power driver with C pot minimum, V pot maximum, adjust C pot until desired system current reached.

Is this thinking correct?

Bang on. Keep in mind that for the CC mode method, you are only able to reduce your current to 50% of the driver's rated output on an "A" type driver, so whatever you have hooked up would have to be able to handle at least that much power if you're going to have the voltage cranked.

Example - if you have a single 36V COB or board hooked up to a 320W 36V A-type driver that you bought because you want to be able to expand it later, if that driver is rated for 9 amps and you turn the current all the way down, you're only capping it at 4.5 amps. With the voltage cranked, that COB or board is likely going to pull all that current and fry. If you had 4 of these COBs/boards on this driver, it wouldn't be a problem though, since they would each be only getting 1 amp. The load just needs to be able to support whatever 50% of the driver's rated current is if you're going to run the voltage wide open.