New build no Heatsink, EB strips Help!

[EpsomSalt]

Hello there folks. Im looking to do a build with EB-Strips; BXEB-L1120Z-35E4000-C-B3,
@700ma with no heatsinks sorta' like this guy did for my 4x4 tent ---->
viewtopic.php?t=1098


BUT i want to run EB-strips instead, that is. Thing is im not sure what driver i would need, if i can use the same driver model as the example above maybe?

And dunno' how many strips i would be able to max out on one 600w driver..

So any help at all would be greatly appreciated!


Best Regards!

/EpsomSalt

[ATPinMotion]

Welcome.

The strips run at ~40V so.

40V x .7a = 28watts

600w ÷ 28 watts per strip = 21.5 strips

So 21 or 22 would be the answer, whichever suits your layout better.

Very pleased with the 3500k EB gen II's personally

[EpsomSalt]

Welcome.

The strips run at ~40V so.

40V x .7a = 28watts

600w ÷ 28 watts per strip = 21.5 strips

So 21 or 22 would be the answer, whichever suits your layout better.

Very pleased with the 3500k EB gen II's personally

Thank you!

So i can use the same driver as the example i provided? The HLG-600h-48B? Sry for being a little slow

hmm, thx for explaining and thank you for such a quick answer!

Yes i agree m8 these strips are amazing, i have one rig already with 12x gen 2 EB strips @ 1050ma, and i have to say im very pleased so far!

Best regards and thank you yet again! ))

/EpsomSalt

[ATPinMotion]

Cheers!

I really appreciate the community here, and it's fantastic to feel like I'm contributing!

The HLG600-48 will work, but...

To get the full 600w out of a "B" style driver, it needs to operate at the maximum CC voltage. In your case a HLG600-42 will give about 2a more current.

Looking at it a different way,

Hlg600-48B gives 12.5a.

12.5a ÷ .7a/strip = 18 strips

HLG600-42B gives 14.3a

14.3a ÷ .7a/strip = 20 strips

[EpsomSalt]

Hello again!

Sorry for reposting in this old thread, but i need to ask; would it be possible to replace the B-model driver with an A-model?

That is, replacing the HLG-600H-42B with a HLG-600H-42A!

I'm thinking the A-model is a little cheaper and it's dimmable down to 50% without an external dimmer, which is more then enough for me, Tbh On top of that, its less hassle you know? More plug-and-play, which is perfect for a schmuck like me LOL

When im looking at the spec-sheets of both drivers, it looks like it would work, the numbers are all the same, but hey, im probably missing some minor detail, hence me coming back here with my tail tucked

For my 600H-42A driver i'll be getting 20x
‎BXEB-L1120Z-35E4000-C-B3, since they're so cheap at the moment!

3500k sure does the job for me so im gonna go with that, seems so be a nice balance spectrum-wise..

I'm gonna order the strips and driver this week, and as soon as I recieve the parts I'll start building!


Thanks again for the help, ATPinmotion! You've been a gem!

Peace

[TacticGuy]

Hello again!

Sorry for reposting in this old thread, but i need to ask; would it be possible to replace the B-model driver with an A-model?

That is, replacing the HLG-600H-42B with a HLG-600H-42A!

I'm thinking the A-model is a little cheaper and it's dimmable down to 50% without an external dimmer, which is more then enough for me, Tbh On top of that, its less hassle you know? More plug-and-play, which is perfect for a schmuck like me LOL

When im looking at the spec-sheets of both drivers, it looks like it would work, the numbers are all the same, but hey, im probably missing some minor detail, hence me coming back here with my tail tucked

For my 600H-42A driver i'll be getting 20x
‎BXEB-L1120Z-35E4000-C-B3, since they're so cheap at the moment!

3500k sure does the job for me so im gonna go with that, seems so be a nice balance spectrum-wise..

I'm gonna order the strips and driver this week, and as soon as I recieve the parts I'll start building!


Thanks again for the help, ATPinmotion! You've been a gem!

Peace

Hey, just my two cents here.
I went with two "A" drivers for my build, and i regret it honestly, would love an external pot to dim.
If you are gonna be dimming more than a few times a year i would go for a "B" driver.
And if you go with an "A" driver, make sure to place it in a spot where its easy to reach and see.
If the built in A driver pot fails, it would likely be a problem, where if the B drivers external pot fails its easy to replace.

Hope all goes well, looks like you will be getting a kickass lighting setup there!

[Shimbob]

Don't forget the -AB drivers, combining the best of both worlds.

[EpsomSalt]

Thanks for all the input guys! Looks like I'll be getting that AB driver then, or I'll definitely consider it thats for sure

i just have trouble understanding what potentiometer im supposed to pick: I know im supposed to get a 100k ohm, since im only using one driver to dim, that much I've figured out.

BUT, these little knobs all have different "rated wattage/power", as well as "operating voltage". something that confuses the hell out of me since the numbers aren't even close to any of my rigs.

(it think rated wattage on the pot i checked was @ 0.05 w, like What the heck does that mean? )

I would appreciate if anyone could clarify the matter, since I built a 120w rig as well for my veg tent, and it's in dire need of dimming. Way too much photons, heh!

Best regards, everybody!

/EpsomSalt

[Shimbob]

Get a 0-10V dimmer and that's one less thing you have to worry about
https://www.rapidled.com/cased-potentiometer-with-knob/

[ATPinMotion]

Hey Epsom, good to hear of your progress.

The pot is just a control circuit - most are not designed to handle any load/power/amps. In this case you don't have to worry about that, because the pot is not going inline with your lights.

Although 0-10v control is a little different, Shimbob's suggestion is a good one. A prewired, enclosed potentiometer is really easy to hook up.

If you don't mind soldering, just about any old 100k pot will work, but the connection is more difficult to make and you'll probably want some form of enclosure for it.

I wouldn't recommend an A series driver in a dimming application. Those drivers offer more flexibility, but they are really designed for a 'set and forget' application. The screws are just plastic, and are susceptible to breaking - if they break, there is no way to control the output of the driver. If an external pot breaks (or wears out or gets corroded), they are very easy to replace)