Looking for advice for small BXEB slim gen 3 build
- RadRiverOtter
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Also, I was going to run the 660's straight down the middle. Sandwiched right where each set of 2 joins on the extrusion. So it would sort of create a perpendicular row. Is this a bad idea? Or should I run them lengthwise on their own extrusion with the uvs and far reds?
Swamp botanist by day... Bedroom botanist by night.
You can run them there but your spread won't be fantastic. When adding suppliments you really want to still maintain a good spread, it's often better to buy smaller suppliment lights and spread them around rather than one big one in the center.
I call the 3030s PC blues but they will know what you are talking about
Part number is LT-3030 PC BLUE
I call the 3030s PC blues but they will know what you are talking about
Part number is LT-3030 PC BLUE
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- HomerPepsi
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RadRiverOtter wrote: ↑Wed Feb 12, 2020 1:09 amIMG_11022020_185635_(1080_x_810_pixel).jpg
Just received the last pieces of the puzzle today for my strip build. Well almost.. @TEKNIK lured me with additional extra shiny things.
Has anyone used an inline ammeter for dialing in the current?
I realize I can do this with a multimeter, but I think it will be nice to monitor it. Especially if I want to make any minute changes.
Yes you can! Just watch the voltages, as I believe the cheap ones I got from bang good (if I recall the store correctly) are limited to 100v.
- RadRiverOtter
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Watch the voltages? I actually didn't bother with a voltmeter. I figured with parallel wiring and constant voltage driver I only needed to keep an eye on the current. Am I way off on this thought?HomerPepsi wrote: ↑Wed Feb 12, 2020 7:46 pm
Yes you can! Just watch the voltages, as I believe the cheap ones I got from bang good (if I recall the store correctly) are limited to 100v.
I picked up an analog ammeter. For no other reason, aside from I like the way it looks. Lol. I don't see a max voltage on it though. Guess I'll find out once I hook it up if it's going to explode.
Swamp botanist by day... Bedroom botanist by night.
Meanwell drivers are not constant voltage, people just call them constant voltage drivers. They are voltage limited drivers. What happens with your set up is that they will drop voltage, a proper constant voltage driver never drops voltage. Just check it with a multi meter once warmed up, you don't need to constantly monitor voltage and current
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That is really interesting. Thanks for relaying that info from or_gro. Do you happen to know how many watts of 410-420nm per sq ft or_gro was supplementing with?TEKNIK wrote: ↑Tue Feb 11, 2020 12:30 amYou can buy some cheap UV meters. I don't think they are accurate. I will get a proper meter one day that I can connect to my goniophotometer so I can see what's really going on.
Before you buy UVB I would suggest to fill in the near UV region of 400nm to 450nm.
Tests that Or_Gro conducted showed very little difference in THC content to grows done with and without UVB but with added 420nm.
Without the 420nm I think from memory THC content was 20% less
- RadRiverOtter
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Oh wow. Ok. Thanks, I didn't realize that. I'll keep an eye on it until I get a feel for it.TEKNIK wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:35 amMeanwell drivers are not constant voltage, people just call them constant voltage drivers. They are voltage limited drivers. What happens with your set up is that they will drop voltage, a proper constant voltage driver never drops voltage. Just check it with a multi meter once warmed up, you don't need to constantly monitor voltage and current
Am I correct in assuming that current directly correlates to light output?
My reason for needing to monitor the current is that I will need to tweak the light intensity on the fly.
Swamp botanist by day... Bedroom botanist by night.
https://growlightsaustralia.com/product ... -uv-3000k/
Or_Grow was running these boards without suppliment lighting. I would say a total of 5% was dedicated to the 420nm region but its probably less than that.
My advice would be to run around 10% of your total power in the 400-440nm range.
Or_Grow was running these boards without suppliment lighting. I would say a total of 5% was dedicated to the 420nm region but its probably less than that.
My advice would be to run around 10% of your total power in the 400-440nm range.
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- HomerPepsi
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Sorry, I assumed (very wrongly) that the inline voltameter/ammeters we all use are the same. Mine displays volts and amps, but only allows up to 100v.RadRiverOtter wrote: ↑Thu Feb 13, 2020 5:28 amWatch the voltages? I actually didn't bother with a voltmeter. I figured with parallel wiring and constant voltage driver I only needed to keep an eye on the current. Am I way off on this thought?
I picked up an analog ammeter. For no other reason, aside from I like the way it looks. Lol. I don't see a max voltage on it though. Guess I'll find out once I hook it up if it's going to explode.
Cheers,