Q-series serial test build

[LEDG]

That driver will be cutting it very close and you’ll likely be a touch over the max voltage fo the constant current range but it’ll probably be okay. Might lose a little bit of current on the output. The Samsung calculator says 9 of those strips in series @700mA will be 100.8V.

The driver you linked is straight C.C..

[PurpleGunRack]

Thanks for your input

Would it be better to use a different driver, or do a parallel build?

Didn't spot that the driver is CC

[Jolly Green Giant]

I'm a bit uneasy about the mixed CC/CV ''A'' type driver, but I would like to avoid getting/fitting a potentiometer for a ''B'' type.

What do you guys think about that driver (and build)?

both CC( 60h-"C ma") and CV+CC(60h-"Volts") should both have A/B types. along with a third or fourth dimming option sometimes

look for a liner taper potentiometer that has wired leads on it and wago( wire nut) to the driver's leads.

[PurpleGunRack]

Thanks JGG

Do you have a link to such a potentiometer?
I couldn't find any on my locally based online electronics store...

I have enough wagos and maybe even enough wire left from my QB's, for a serial build

Got the strips today

[Jolly Green Giant]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071GL8G ... ref=plSrch

only one that popped up quick without a lot of digging... and it looks weird in the picture black should be in the middle with reds on each side( if it is 3 wired)

you could always use spade connectors also.. stick the wire in the one end and pinch it.. then slide the spade ( not the fork/full circle kind normally they are totally encased in the plastic/vinyl ) the clip it onto the potentiometer. like this multi size male/female set
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DDBAO ... ref=plSrch

[LEDG]

Thanks for your input

Would it be better to use a different driver, or do a parallel build?

Didn't spot that the driver is CC

I like constant current for little builds like this. I think you’ve made a good choice with the CC.

[LEDG]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071GL8G ... ref=plSrch

only one that popped up quick without a lot of digging... and it looks weird in the picture black should be in the middle with reds on each side( if it is 3 wired)

you could always use spade connectors also.. stick the wire in the one end and pinch it.. then slide the spade ( not the fork/full circle kind normally they are totally encased in the plastic/vinyl ) the clip it onto the potentiometer. like this multi size male/female set
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01DDBAO ... ref=plSrch

Most potentiometers you’ll see will have three terminals. The outer 2 will have the full resistance of the pot between them no matter where you turn the knob. The left and center will usually have zero resistance when the knob is turned fully counter-clockwise and full resistance when the knob is turned fully clockwise. The right and center will be the opposite of this.

If it’s only got 2 terminals, it’s called a rheostat which is just a variable resistor and would do the same thing.

[Jolly Green Giant]

it just looked funny with the wires on the outer two poles I was thinking to myself.. WTH?? that isn't going to do anything! lol

[LEDG]

it just looked funny with the wires on the outer two poles I was thinking to myself.. WTH?? that isn't going to do anything! lol

For sure. That configuration with 3 wires is using it as a voltage divider.

[PurpleGunRack]

]Allright the build is done, well almost, I accidently ordered the wrong AC connector so I just used 2 wagos and it's not to shabby

I tested the lamp for 5 minutes today, and I don't understand why it only draws 52w? 0,7 x 100 should be around 70w, no?
However it works, is very bright and this way of constructing a ~1m strip lamp is certainly long enough for a 120cm x 120cm (4x4) tent, but I think the 4' strips will fit and easier to build with.
Sucks that the minimum order of 1' F-series strips is 160

It was very good to do a test build, and I learned a lot for future builds, and acquired all the small bits so I just need strips, drivers and heatsinks for next round.


Some of the things I learned:

- Map out the build with the parts and do all drilling before assembling the heatsink
- Don't use permanent marker on the heatsink/framing, alcohol won't dissolve it
- Don't use mountings, next time I'll use L channels, or threaded rods with nuts and washers
- Make sure you've done all drilling before taping the strips on the U channels

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I will soon deploy the lamp in real action and see how it performs.

I'll make a list of items and prices with some links for euro-builders


Thanks for all your help, it really made a big difference :48: