3×3 EB build

[unkle_psycho]

I think the Vesta are a new generation product? I would imagine they are more desirable then EBgen1, having about the same efficiency, but being in cri90, having two led rows of different temperature per strip, and don't both the rows on their own have a higher max power rating (100w) then a single eb1?

[LEDG]

The constant current region for that driver is 24-48v it would work by running pairs of strips in series and turning down the current potentiometer but if one of the strips goes out for any reason the current would be shared between the remaining series wired pairs probably overpowering them.

Yup. Precisely this. You could run your driver in CC mode as long as you had enough strips to pull all the current (and enough that they could handle all the current). As flippy said though, the danger of running them this way is that as soon as you have one or a couple fail, it could kill the whole chain. I’d suggest finding a better match.

[sdfoster22]

The constant current region for that driver is 24-48v it would work by running pairs of strips in series and turning down the current potentiometer but if one of the strips goes out for any reason the current would be shared between the remaining series wired pairs probably overpowering them.

That driver is constant voltage 43-52v.

[Grower]

I think the Vesta are a new generation product? I would imagine they are more desirable then EBgen1, having about the same efficiency, but being in cri90, having two led rows of different temperature per strip, and don't both the rows on their own have a higher max power rating (100w) then a single eb1?

I would go for Vesta or EB2, they are cheap enough.
Not sure what I would choose between the 2

[LEDG]

The constant current region for that driver is 24-48v it would work by running pairs of strips in series and turning down the current potentiometer but if one of the strips goes out for any reason the current would be shared between the remaining series wired pairs probably overpowering them.

That driver is constant voltage 43-52v.

All of the HLG CV drivers are actually CV+CC. They switch to constant current as soon as you suck all the current out of them and have constant current regions just like regular CC drivers.

[sdfoster22]

All of the HLG CV drivers are actually CV+CC. They switch to constant current as soon as you suck all the current out of them and have constant current regions just like regular CC drivers.

How do you "suck all the current out of them" ?

[LEDG]

Once the lights pull the full current of the driver is what I meant. Either by adding more lights or by bumping up voltage and driving a smaller number of them harder.

As soon as the driver can’t produce anymore current, it switches over.

[sdfoster22]

How would you hit the max current? Doesn't it split the 10A between however many strips you wire in parallel?

That is what I'm struggling to understand. Or do you mean the max wattage. Once you hit the max wattage of the driver(voltage and current draw of each strip,) it kicks it into cc mode.

[FlippyNips]

If you adjust the current potentiometer on the driver to give a maximum of 6A it will reduce the voltage to whatever it needs to be to maintain 6A but only to a minimum of 24V as in the specs.

Assuming there are 20 560mm EB Gen2 strips arranged in 10 pairs of series wired strips in parallel each pair will then be running at 600mA and the driver will adjust the voltage to ~39V to maintain a current of 6A

LEDG has done some very good youtube videos on the subject.

[sdfoster22]

I saw those videos, I just didn't understand them at the time. I see now. Thx for the explanation.