4x6 bridgelux build questions

[sdfoster22]

Heatsinkusa.com offers 1" wide heatsinks 4' long for $7.68 USD. Plus shipping

https://www.heatsinkusa.com/1-000-wide- ... -heatsink/

[Elevator Dude]

You can calculate the ratio between cost of strips and cooling, so if strips cost 15$ and cooling 15$, you always have the choice of just halving heat by doubling strips.

That's kind of my concern, say I am running 800w of led now and I am fighting to control heat. Would it be less heat generated if I spread those 800w over 50 strips? Or would it be the same amount of heat as my 2 400w panels just spread over the 50 strips? Wouldn't a watt generate the same btu of heat either way?

I am not worried about cooling the chips as much as I am with removing heat from the room with the liquid cooling idea.

[sdfoster22]

It depends. If your strips are more spread out and you have exhaust. Air will flow through it easier than one big solid panel.

[Elevator Dude]

That's my issue, no exhaust. I run ac and co2 in a sealed room. I do have an exhaust that kicks on if the room reaches 90.

[DaveJonesFan]

With more diodes overall (and/or newer more efficient diodes) you would be able to run less watts more efficiently into the same overall light output, potentially.

I think that's most of the key with that. But other than that can you up to bigger AC with headroom?

I also noticed you said you're running blurp's currently, so is your wattage with them the true wattage spec or a marketing number they are common for touting? That could change the calculations on your potential needs from this new strip replacement drastically.

Either way you should be able to get the same light output as your old light with less watts in any new bridgelux setup, the EB2 are near the tip top of efficient, especially the more of them you can run as low current as possible.

[Elevator Dude]

With more diodes overall (and/or newer more efficient diodes) you would be able to run less watts more efficiently into the same overall light output, potentially.

I think that's most of the key with that. But other than that can you up to bigger AC with headroom?

I also noticed you said you're running blurp's currently, so is your wattage with them the true wattage spec or a marketing number they are common for touting? That could change the calculations on your potential needs from this new strip replacement drastically.

Either way you should be able to get the same light output as your old light with less watts in any new bridgelux setup, the EB2 are near the tip top of efficient, especially the more of them you can run as low current as possible.

i could get a bigger ac and have been considering it as an option but thats part of the reason i started looking at these strips. im looking to put less $$ into cooling.

my blurps pull ~375w at the wall with around 350w going to the diodes. i run 2 of these and a 315w cmh between them. so im pumping 1000+ w of heat into my room.


i ended up going with 20 of the 4' samsung f-series double row strips i also ordered 2" heatsinks from heatsinksusa.com now im trying to decide on drivers. im stuck between the MW hlg-600h-48b or the hlg-480h-48b, i plan on running everything around 50% but wouldnt mind having room on the driver to push them if i wanted to.

i went with these honestly because i really wanted 3000k lights for flowering and the eb's have a minimum of 100 for that spectrum, i am going to end up with about an inch and a half between the strips so i think ill have plenty of spread. i have a cxb rig i use for veg and plan on supplementing with monos eventually once i get this credit card paid off.

[DaveJonesFan]

Sounds like you'll be able to cut your overall heat for sure from the old setup.

Something else to consider with the drivers is if you are on 115v level of power they can have an ever so slight bump in efficiency of some models of the Meanwell drivers at around 70-85 percent vs 100 percent wide open. I like to run slightly more driver than I'd need in most of my design choices. 230v usually peaks at or near the end of the load graph, however.

[sdfoster22]

With more diodes overall (and/or newer more efficient diodes) you would be able to run less watts more efficiently into the same overall light output, potentially.

I think that's most of the key with that. But other than that can you up to bigger AC with headroom?

I also noticed you said you're running blurp's currently, so is your wattage with them the true wattage spec or a marketing number they are common for touting? That could change the calculations on your potential needs from this new strip replacement drastically.

Either way you should be able to get the same light output as your old light with less watts in any new bridgelux setup, the EB2 are near the tip top of efficient, especially the more of them you can run as low current as possible.

i could get a bigger ac and have been considering it as an option but thats part of the reason i started looking at these strips. im looking to put less $$ into cooling.

my blurps pull ~375w at the wall with around 350w going to the diodes. i run 2 of these and a 315w cmh between them. so im pumping 1000+ w of heat into my room.


i ended up going with 20 of the 4' samsung f-series double row strips i also ordered 2" heatsinks from heatsinksusa.com now im trying to decide on drivers. im stuck between the MW hlg-600h-48b or the hlg-480h-48b, i plan on running everything around 50% but wouldnt mind having room on the driver to push them if i wanted to.

i went with these honestly because i really wanted 3000k lights for flowering and the eb's have a minimum of 100 for that spectrum, i am going to end up with about an inch and a half between the strips so i think ill have plenty of spread. i have a cxb rig i use for veg and plan on supplementing with monos eventually once i get this credit card paid off.

You won't need to push near as many watts with the f series compared to the cmh and blurple, because the f series puts out more usable light per watt than either of those 2. You can always mount the drivers outside of your room and run the wires in. You may loose a couple volts to voltage droop, but it might be worth the loss in heat the drivers put out.

[Elevator Dude]

They will be mounted outside with a fan blowing over them. That's why I was b's so I can put the pots on the inside.

[unkle_psycho]

That's my issue, no exhaust. I run ac and co2 in a sealed room. I do have an exhaust that kicks on if the room reaches 90.

In a sealed room the water cooling would allow you to transport quite a bit of heat out, so defiantly that might be worth thinking about.

The water cooling and general efficiency (running soft) would be the places to get 'mayor' reductions in heat. CO2, and picking heat tolerant varieties should also raise the level of heat that is acceptable.

As others have said there are a few other minor reductions you could get.

Personally I switched from HPS and had to add heating to compensate, and that kinda makes efficiency pointless. I think its a little similar with the AC... I'm wondering on non electrical solutions to keep heat in.