Total Newbie Strip Light build

[H0m3B0Y]

So I borrowed a friends' multimeter to see what the current in the circuit was, and I almost blew another fuse. It seems that my driver (HLG-150H-20A) can go "a bit" higher than advertised... I started with both pots on minimum. Increased current pot to max (no current in circuit at ~16ish volts). Then I started to turn the voltage pot, and very quickly got to 9+ amps. And it wasn't even cranked to the max, maybe 2/3 or 3/4. I think I know how I blew my fuse, I was just a bit to excited to see the light in full glow!

Friends' multimeter also has 10A fuse, so I reduced voltage to get the planned 7A (actually settled on 7.5A just for the hell of it). But it is nice to know that this driver can put out a lot more power than I thought. I was counting on 7.5A @ 19.6V (~150W), but it looks like it can go at least up to 10A @ 20V on EB Gen2 560mm strips (~200W) and probably even more.

Is this normal for this type of drivers? Is it safe to run them at their max, or should they be dialed down to advertised ranges?

[sdfoster22]

Actually I have 4 different ports on my meter (VA18-B type). I used the 10A port on multimeter for current measurement. I also checked owners manual if polarity is an issue, but it says that in case of reversed polarity I would see a negative current on the display without any damage to the device. Maybe it was just a weird fuse that decided to blow really quick.

As for temperature I'm talking about the little copper circles that can be seen on the image below (Tc2 & Tc3):


I looked on bridgelux site and found a video for COBs, but they seem to have different Tc pad compared to strips. Id there a guide or something where I could see how those pads work, whats required, if it's possible to install continous temperature measurment, etc.?

It may just be a bad fuse. It happens, they wear out sometimes.

I haven't seen any videos on how to measure the temps with the test points, but that is definitely what they are for.

Luckily I work in construction fusing plastic gas main together, and have one of these to point at it.

https://express.google.com/u/0/product/ ... trol_60_90

I would say if you found a temperature guage with a thermalcouple. You could monitor one point constantly. Keeping the thermalcouple attached to that spot safely is a different challenge on it's own.

[H0m3B0Y]

Well, bridgelux has this video for COBs on how to measure temperature: https://www.bridgelux.com/resources/bri ... asurements

But the thermocouple port is very different than those on the strips, you hook the wire under something and then "glue" it using ?thermal epoxy? if I understood correctly. I think I'll try to contact bridgelux if they have a tutorial on how to measure temperatures on strips.

[dik666]

...but it looks like it can go at least up to 10A @ 20V on EB Gen2 560mm strips (~200W) and probably even more.

how is this possible?
anyone knows what would be the max for HLG-120H-20A that I plan to use for running 8 pcs of EB Gen 2 strips (560mm)?

edit:
I found it. 120 20a is reported to go 2.67-7A.
you can see al of them here http://ledgardener.com/mw-cv-driver-ref/

edit2: looking at this now I would maybe go with 150-20A (costs the same as 120) that is reported 3-10.7A but how likely is it I can go as low as 3A with it when I want to run the strips on min during early veg (0.375mA for 8pcs EB2)?

[H0m3B0Y]

I can turn current down to (almost) 0 when voltage pot is at minimum. But if you plan to change current for veg/flower then maybe get a B type driver? A type would be kind of clumsy with the integrated pots, especially if driver is in a place that is not easily accessible.

If I was to build it again, I'd probably go with CC driver with external pot (B-type). I was worried about high voltage and exposed solder pads, but those are now taped over with white insulating tape, and as far as multimeter is concerned, no electricity gets through (albeit at 20V).
With CC there is no danger of thermal runaway + its much easier to adjust brightness with current than with voltage. EB Gen2 strips react very very fast to very very small changes in voltage.

[dik666]

I want to go with CV because of high voltage involved in CC. don't want to think about that really. I'm very careful around electricity and I will probably insulate everything but you never know. only one slip and...

the driver will be very accessible and I don't think it would be a problem to use internal pots on A version 2 or 3 times during grow. are they hard to use?
I was thinking of integrating those cheap digital amp/volt meters from amazon/ebay so I can easally set the %.

[sdfoster22]

High amps is just as dangerous as high voltage. Treat all electricity as dangerous. Any amount can kill you if it jumps across your heart.

[dik666]

I agree that we should be very carufull. I was under impression that it's safer to use C.V. driver.
now I'm not sure again wich one to use .
to many options in DIY LED

[sdfoster22]

Just make sure everything is sealed before you run it without monitoring. Make sure the AC side is sealed mostly. And if you have a high voltage or high amperage output on the dc side. Make sure you can't touch any part of that.

[H0m3B0Y]

I agree that we should be very carufull. I was under impression that it's safer to use C.V. driver.
now I'm not sure again wich one to use .
to many options in DIY LED

I went CV route for the exact same reason. I don't regret doing it, but I wonder just how less dangerous 7A @ 20V are compared to 0.7A @ 200V.

The water analogy for electricity (which seems to be the most popular on internet) states that if voltage is low enough, then there is not enough "pressure" (difference in potentials) to "push" the current through your body. But I don't know if 20V is low enough or not

Regardless, I have my AC side completely sealed (schuko plugs in sockets, no exposed wires anywhere), and for my DC side I did the best I could (no exposed wires; insulation runs into wagos, connectors on strips; taped over solder pads on strips with insulation tape). But on DC side there will be higher humidity, less room for manipulating things, etc.

I really hope this will be enough, since I plan to have my light as close to the plants as possible (inverse-square law thingy and light intensity) and with little room between plant and light one could easily touch something one might regret...