Bridgelux EB Series Gen2

Strip light questions and discussions go here (Samsung, Bridgelux, Photo Boost, Growcraft, etc.)
jakeup
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LEDG wrote:
Wed Jan 10, 2018 9:29 pm
Since you’re only running a handful of low voltage strips, they would be a good candidate for series wiring on constant current OR parallel on constant voltage. If you go series/CC, a good match for 8 of them would be the HLG-120H-C700. You might have to dim them though because with the driver cranked, you’d be running them at 100% max current. For the 6 strip light, an HLG-80H-C700 would be a great match.

If you go parallel, you’d want something that can do about 600mA per strip or so, which is just shy of max. 600*8 would be 4800mA at 20V so an HLG-100H-20 is perfect. For the 6 strip light, that’d be 3600mA, so your best bet would be the HLG-80H-20, as dopenewb recommended.
Hey LEDg,
Thanks for the reply and all of the info you bring to this community. What would the Benefit of running them in series be? To avoid thermal runaway? Will this make any difference in performance?
dopenewb22
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I would point out that running 8 strips in series would result in around 8 * 20VDC = 160VDC of head voltage. This can be considered as a safety hazard.

Of course, if you take all the precautions necessary (proper grounding of the frame, no touchable contacts, etc...), these hazards can be mitigated. One must also consider that if there's a current leakage after the driver, the GFCI of your electrical installation may not protect you. You should take great care in properly grounding anything you can touch.

I'll let @LEDG answer for the series aspects as I'm not in the best position to answer this.
Buck5050
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BXEB-L0560Z-50E2000-C-B3 ant the BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3 are the part numbers for the strips I ordered. The 5000ks are on there way and I might get this thing lit up before the weekends out
Buck5050
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Here they are all lit up. Left one is dimmed all the way down and the right one cranked all the way up. I probably clean up the wiring when I hang these babies up.
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LEDG
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Great! Looks pretty cool with the alternating temps. What’s your initial impression?
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Buck5050
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My first thought is "Damn that's bright!" Lol
I want to get these things hung up and check temps at full current. I can check lux through an app on my phone and will post what I find. I have a 600w hps that these are going to replace. I want to also change out the black cord cap since I didn't like the internal set screws. They were made for crimp-on fork connectors and don't have a washer for a compresion connection like 99% of all cord caps. I think in a few weeks I will buy a killawatt meter to check loads. Where can I check milliamps and total circuit voltage? I seen you stuff your leads into the wagos.
Buck5050
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Well with some wire and zip ties I got these things stuffed in the tent. I have some odd overlapping because of the frame size. Its not perfect but It is functional. I grabbed some quick lux readings once I was done. A lux of 32700 consistently (which is high as the meter goes)at 12" down at full power. This afternoon I will monitor temps and get some more readings when lights come back on.
The Big D
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These are rated 700ma nominal, 1400ma max. Id put them on a driver capable of at least 1050 each and you can always dim down if necessary.
http://static6.arrow.com/aropdfconversi ... 710202.pdf

Page 6, figure 4 shows they are pretty dang flat when it comes to pushing them harder, as far as efficiency goes.
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LEDG
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Buck5050 wrote:
Sun Jan 14, 2018 6:31 pm
Well with some wire and zip ties I got these things stuffed in the tent. I have some odd overlapping because of the frame size. Its not perfect but It is functional. I grabbed some quick lux readings once I was done. A lux of 32700 consistently (which is high as the meter goes)at 12" down at full power. This afternoon I will monitor temps and get some more readings when lights come back on.
They maxed out the meter? Ha! That’s awesome!
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Buck5050
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Frame rebuild using 1" x 1" x 1/16th square tubing.
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Total frame size now is 22" by 22" so I have a little clearance and don't rub the tent walls. I used self drilling screws to attach everything including the strips themselves.
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