LEDgardener

I'm considering getting my feet wet with LED and I've been looking at the Samsung Q series.
I've been looking around for how voltage corresponds to current with these but can't seem to find anything except for the data sheet, that only specifies min, typ and max values and these seem somewhat confusing?
The operating voltage is stated as 41.6, 43.8, 46.1, lf: 450 mA but it doesn't make sense to me how it would be possible to run it at different voltages with the SAME current, or am I reading this wrong? I would expect voltage drop to be determined by the current that runs through it?

How much current would be safe to run through these without a heatsink?

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=1180

Check out that link. The min and max current you are seeing is not at the same current. They just don't report it om the datasheets.

The max current of the lm301b diode is 180ma. You can calculate the max current by figuring out the wiring inside the strip. I explain how to find and calculate that in the guide.

As for the min current without heatsink. You'll have to test that out yourself maybe.

Thanks! I think that must mean 5 series in parallel if the 180mA max of the diode is the base for the 900mA max of the strip?

Here is how the q series is wired.

This Samsung tool will tell you everything you want to know:

https://www.samsung.com/led/support/too ... alculator/

The LM301Bs have been bumped up to 200mA as well, if you look at the latest data sheet. Funny though, in the engine calculator I linked above, it works out to 180mA if you do the math on each module.

I forgot about that

Thanks all that helped a lot:) I think the calculator is somewhat flawed though because when you change between minimum, typical and maximum voltage under "general data" the current doesn't change, but voltage does. This doesn't make any sense I think?
I'm considering building a light with 4x LT-QB22A. A HLG-120H-48A should drive it at 0.625A , 44.5V for a total of 111.2W on the board and 195.9 lm/W (for 5000K)

You pick the voltage bin and other parameters (I’d go “Typical”), then adjust the current yourself with the slider below. The tool will spit your info out.

If you want to be able to max them out I think you need to get a HLG-185H-48, a HLG-150H-48 would be decent and not able to overpower them.

Or you could do a serial build with a HLG 120h c700 which should power the strips to around ~70% of max, but it's the same price as the HLG-150H-48 which should be able to power the strips to ~80% of max.
However, the type A drivers put out more voltage than the B drivers and they might be able to run the strips a bit harder.
So though the driver says 153.6W, I guesstimate it would draw 160w - 180w when turned to max.

On a side note, have you checked out the H inFlux strips?

LEDG wrote: ↑

Thu Aug 16, 2018 7:03 pm

You pick the voltage bin and other parameters (I’d go “Typical”), then adjust the current yourself with the slider below. The tool will spit your info out.

Thanks - it makes total sense now:)

PurpleGunRack wrote: ↑

Fri Aug 17, 2018 4:28 am

If you want to be able to max them out I think you need to get a HLG-185H-48, a HLG-150H-48 would be decent and not able to overpower them.

Or you could do a serial build with a HLG 120h c700 which should power the strips to around ~70% of max, but it's the same price as the HLG-150H-48 which should be able to power the strips to ~80% of max.
However, the type A drivers put out more voltage than the B drivers and they might be able to run the strips a bit harder.
So though the driver says 153.6W, I guesstimate it would draw 160w - 180w when turned to max.

On a side note, have you checked out the H inFlux strips?

I would prefer being able to run them with just an L-channel as heatsink so maxing wouldn't really be a priority I think.

The H influx do look interesting. A little disappointing efficacy given the LM301B diodes but I guess they're using cheaper bins? But good diode density for a low price - perhaps low enough to just run them softer for acceptable efficacy and still come out with a cheaper build but it's going to take some calculating. I guess there's no way around a heatsink for the L09.