LEDgardener

I'm an experienced HPS grower forced to downsize from a 2.4 x 2.4m grow space to either a 1.5 x 1.5m or 2 x 2m grow tent depending on strain and yield. So what i'm looking for is a very high performing build to try and compensate for lost floor space.
Will this work?
My idea is to run 40 Samsung LT-F564B strips with 2x HLG600HB 48A drivers. The strips would be divided between 4 fixtures each with 10 strips. Each driver would run 2 fixtures.
When being used in the 1.5m tent I would like each fixture to be running at 250w(1000w Total) and when in the 2m tent to be able to turn it up to 300w(1200w Total).
Each fixture will have a double spine of 30mm x 19mm U Channel and the LEDS will be mounted on 600mm x 40mm x 3mm Flat Bar Alloy strips. I hope this will be sufficient enough to keep things running cool.
I've checked out the prices and if you think if spec'd things correctly I would like to get going on this project in around a months time.
Your time and help is very much appreciated.

I’m not knowledgeable enough to be much help with your build, but I’m curious why you’ve chosen the LT-F564B over the LT-F562B. (The 564 has two rows of LED’s while the 562 has a single row)
Is it to save cost on heatsinks?
Not being critical, just trying to learn.

1000w in 1.5m is 5x5 sq foot, so it would make 40w/ sq foot. 1200w in 2x2m is 6x6ft or about 33w per square foot. So power wise both setups are in recommended range.

Also using the double strips the setup will end up pretty efficient too.

Hey !! Nice space.
Keep in mind I'm new to this, so hope I'll be corrected fast by stars people.

First, 40 x F564 = 40 x 51.5 W (typical) = 2060 W seems huge to me ..
Regarding Cooling, each 600x40, should roughly (if my maths are right) evacuate 9W Heat, even if you run the leds half way to there typ power , lets say 25 w, you will still have to take off 25w*75% = 19 W (Heat).

I don't think you need 40 of those. 24 - 32 would certainly do the trick (that meens 48 - 64 F562)

This Driver will always be a good choice i think

unkle_psycho : Also using the double strips the setup will end up pretty efficient too.

The only efficiency I see in using the F564 is the buy price (13%) and the building & wiring, because i think that you are more in control of the space distribution with the F562, and it will be cost less regarding cooling. Am I wrong somewhere ?

Hi there, thanks for your input. Before discovering this great site I was going down the commercial Blackdog LED route as it claims to do the coverage I require. I then found this site and my eyes were opened as to what could be achieved. I found a 4x4 build by LG and expanded it knowing that at times it would be in a 2m sq. tent. I ended up with 40 strips thinking running them at roughly 50% would equate to around 1000w and 60+% 1200w. This is all new to me and it wouldn't surprise me if I've got it all wrong. Also with 40 strips the light would be hitting the plants from all directions.

All wrong you're certainly not ! ,I 'm just worrying a little because of the heat, maybe too much, and I'm often chained by efficiency and cost. One of the wizards just gave you thumbsUp, so looks like you're good to go !!

Hi Crazyphil, when I start i plan on hanging the drivers in the tent but depending on tent temps. one or both can be placed outside. Air movement in the tent will be created with a RVK fan fitted with an air diffuser.
Layout of light fixtures in 1.5m tent - The diffuser being the little circle at the center of the tent.
Solution to cooling and air movement - https://www.globalairsupplies.co.uk/diffuseair
Also if necessary I can bring in the cold/cool London air from outside.

I don't worry about the temp in the tent, but I do on the strip itself. People often use those on thinner strips : https://www.heatsinkusa.com/1-000-wide- ... -heatsink/ that is relatively cheap (if u live in us). Due to the width of yours I don't think you can use them but maybe you can, I really don't have the faintest idea of if you can or not, but i would never run your strips on à 600mm x 40 mm aluminum plate without active cooling.
I can be wrong estimating the heat generated by them, the theory gives 75% of the total power dissipates in heat, so running 50 % it's still a 25 W strip x 75% = 18.75 heat watts. a 600x40 aluminum gives a surface of 0.024 m² x 2 = 0.048 m² . Aluminium can conducts 185 w/m² @ 20°c, so you plate can dissipate 9 w.
THIS IS ALL THEORY -- NO PRACTICE YET

There are quite a few benefits in running strips softly, the samsung diodes are famous because they are efficient when driven softly. It seems everyone wants them but drives them hard... while congratulating themselves on owning efficient diodes.

The price of heatsinks varies a lot by location. Where I am its cheaper to just buy more strips. The EB gen 2 can be run with no heatsink at nominal currents. The nominal on the f-series strips is already pretty high compared to EB's, but running them at 50% you won't have to worry too much.

@1200w is 30w of power per strip... probably too much for running without heat sinks, but any angle aluminum on your frame should handle it pretty well. It is better if the room air is not totally standing still, a little air movement goes a long way.

Have you looked at the H inFlux series? also there is the HE series from seoul semiconductor which are out but not in stock yet, which is cheaper and more efficient... With the H-influx its a tiny bit more efficient, biggest benefit being better thermals in the strips... matters less in a soft build.

I looked into the heatsinks and in this part of the world they cost a fortune. The equivalent of $550-$600. As a cheaper(about a third) alternative would 2x 500mm lengths of Aluminium Double Channel 16mm x 10mm x 1.3mm https://hardware-warehouse.co.uk/profil ... mm-10mm-2m fixed with thermal paste/tape to the outer edges of each flat bar creating more surface area do the job.
End profile of Flat Bar Alloy with 2x Double U Channel?