Strip light build thread

[sweeper]

Well I suppose it's about time to start my build thread since I've started to get some things in the mail.



In case that picture doesn't show here is a link to it: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0Bx82dk ... sp=sharing

-Coverage area ~5 'x 5'
-Light size ~47" x 47"

-Strips: 16 x FB22B 3500K https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/6624010

-Drivers: This like most, is where I am struggling. If ~40watts/sq-ft is the goal, then 25Sq-ft x 40W = 1000W for that given area. Driving 4 lights per driver for a total of 4 legs and using the strip calculator, driven @ 75% the HLG-320H -48B is the driver of choice. I have some concerns/questions however.
Using the calculator again 257.6W per leg x 4 = 1030 Watts. And 1030W/110V= 9.36amps. Is this the total current draw I will see for the system? Or is this what the lights will be using only? If that's total draw I feel that is perfect for its own breaker/circuit. That comes out to ~62% load on that breaker which is good.
However, if the drivers require more current I may have to go back to the drawing board. According to the driver data sheet, if I'm reading it correctly, each driver typically uses 3.5 amps. http://www.meanwell.com/webapp/product/ ... d=hlg-320h If that's the case 3.5amps * 4 = 14amps which is not ok for 1 breaker. Some clarification and help would be appreciated here.

-Heatsinks: heatsinkusa is out of there 1" heat sinks which would be sized perfect for my strips (dimensionally) until like the end of Feb. So. . . the best idea I've sourced to date is to use two of the .601 profiles parallel with one another, butted together. http://www.heatsinkusa.com/0-601-new/ This keeps the cost down considerably compared to the next two sizes up. If this is copacetic then I will stick to that plan. If you guys don't think they are enough, I could go with a solid sheet of aluminum and run several long wide heat sinks mounted to it. But even that option puts me around 200$ in heatsinks. Thoughts welcome here too.

-Misc: I have lots of wire as well as a box full of various Wago connectors and plenty of hardware. I do still need some Al angle, as well as possibly a sheet of aluminum depending on what I choose for heatsinks.

Thanks everyone for the gander as well as any input/critique.

[Strelok]

The HLG 550 which uses the exact same diodes as your strips seems to cover a 4.5'X4.5' area for flowering with just 510 watts, which comes out to 25W/sqft. The W/sqft rule of thumb is actually a really bad one if you think about it because it doesn't take into consideration efficiency, light to canopy distance, if reflectors are being used, etc. That being said, if they claim 510 to 550 watts can flower a 4.5x4.5' area you should be good with somewhere around 650 watts for a 5x5'

I would run the system off two ~325+ watt drivers. Since the drivers seem to be 90-95% efficient on average I think this means that 5-10% of their input is wasted so that means you will end up with them pulling a total of about 715 watts. If you have 110 volts from the outlet to the driver, 715 watts / 110 volts = 6.5 amps which is just fine for a 15 amp breaker... you can buy 1500 watt heaters on Amazon no problem.

For wiring these strips you just have to keep the connector limits in mind:

connectors on the strips cannot exceed 300V or 9 amps of current, so it’s important to wire them properly.

For heatsinks, if you are running 50% of strip max current you should be fine with just using some aluminum U channels you can get from any large hardware store. I personally will be running at 75% max with just using these, so I guess i'm literally putting my money where my mouth is.

NOTE: I'm not an electrician or electrical engineer, just some dude that spent way too much time researching for his own build, so take everything I just said with a grain of salt.

[sweeper]

Thank you for your reply! I was wondering if anyone was gonna have any input. I’m still digging more and more. I’m not getting answers fast enough so I’m reading and absorbing as much as I can from everywhere. A coworker of mine has done a lot of commercial and residential wiring he gave me some great info on some of my power concerns. I believe I have a plan now at least. I’m going to take a look at a few things tomorrow when I get home.


The u channels seem to a be a popular go-to. If I find them local I’ll look into it for sure. I think heat sinks have a better bling factor, but value is just as important in my opinion.

I’ll report back soon with what I decide! Thank you again for your advice!

[seiks]

I'm doing a much smaller build with just 5 of these, but I was curious about your heatsink choice. If the 1" are out of stock, wouldn't these still be a solid replacement? http://www.heatsinkusa.com/2-079/

[sweeper]

In my opinion, yes they would. And for your far fewer lights, I imagine the price point would be way cheaper for you to use those. I ended up going with a far inferior option in my opinion. I got a set of local U channel pieces. They aren't even the larger ones that some people use. I got them from lowes. I don't think it will be enough. But I'll barrow a thermal imaging camera/thermometer and report back my findings haha.


I'll also get some pictures posted tonight of what I've built so far.

[sweeper]

This is the frame its around 47 x 47




Here are the u channels mostly bolted in place..

I'll have some close ups to follow, by the end of the night.

I've done more investigating, I think all my power concerns will be mitigated by the addition of a 20A breaker to my panel. I should have no problem running the light off that with the 4 hlg-320-48's

[LEDG]

Man, this is going to be a beast of a build. Frame is looking great.

I’d recommend grabbing a Kill-a-watt meter to check the current draw of your drivers from the wall. You can limit the current output of each of the drivers by turning down the “IO” pot on each of them to ensure they don’t pull more than you want them to.

[sweeper]

Man, this is going to be a beast of a build. Frame is looking great.

I’d recommend grabbing a Kill-a-watt meter to check the current draw of your drivers from the wall. You can limit the current output of each of the drivers by turning down the “IO” pot on each of them to ensure they don’t pull more than you want them to.

Thanks man! I am looking forward to it to be honest. If you hadn't suggested I try the strips, I'd just have been like most and went with a Cob build.

[LEDG]

Now you’ll have a monster of a light that’ll bring all the boys to the yard.

[sweeper]

Now you’ll have a monster of a light that’ll bring all the boys to the yard.

Like my Milkshake! XOXO