LEDgardener

Hi there everyone

Third time's the charm! So this time I want to build after a lot of recommendations which I've gotten from multiple people in here, thanks for taking time to explain things. Now I just hope I've understood it correctly. I will try and sumarize and maybe this can help someone else that starts off from the complete beginning(if not corrections need to be made).

I have a bookcase with 2 free shelfs for growing. I'm currently growing some lettuce and such there and aim to have some to harvest when I cook food. Currently I have two EB slim gen 3 setups there, but want more . One of them is 3500K and one 4000K. I must say that I like the color best from the 4000K so this is what I will aim for.

I'm going to have 3 strips on each shelf so in total I will have to drive 6 of them.

Heatsink: U profile aluminum which will be lowered down an inch from each shelf to keep it hanging in the air for better heat dissipation.

Strips: 6x BXEB-L0560Z-40S2000-C-C3

Configuration:
6P1S or 3P1S

Drivers:
6P1S: HLG-150H-20A
or
3P2S: HLG-150H-42A

Safety:
First of all, parallel is preferred to lower the voltage so the risk of "jumps" lowers.
The insulation of the strip is 60Vdc which means I could connect up to 2 strips in series witout any direct hazard, right?
Risk of thermal runaway can be reduced using a cv+cc, type A/AB driver and limiting Vo and Io.

Math:
Strips
700mA gives - Vftyp: 19,9V
1000mA(960mA) gives - Vftyp: 20,3V

HLG-150H-20A
6P1S
Vo, Voltage adj. range: 17-22V
Io, Current adj. range: 4,5-7,5A
Constant current region: 10-20V (Do I have to care about this when using both Vo and Io to limit or will this range mess something up if the voltage goes over 20V for the strips?)
The current strength I want the strips to be able to be driven at is 700mA and about 1000mA.

Limiting Io: 6A(6/6=1A max for each strip)
Limiting Vo: 20,4V which will prevent any strip to go over 20,4V and pulling more than 1A if another strip fails in the parallel circuit
Will this work?


Alternatively
HLG-150H-42A
3P2S
2 strips in series @1000mA(Vf): 40,6V
Vo, Voltage adj. range: 38-46V
Io, Current adj. range: 2,16-3,6A
Constant current region: 21-42V (Same question here as for 6P1S)
The current strength I want the strips to be able to be driven at is 700mA and about 1000mA.

Limiting Io: 3A(3/3=1A max for each 2x strip)
Limiting Vo: 40,8V which will prevent any 2x strip to go over 40,8V and pulling more than 1A if another 2x strip fails in the parallel circuit
Will this work?

Are my calculations reasonable?

Argumentation:
HLG-150H-42A with 3P2S would only require a 5(4) connector wago for the wire connections
HLG-150H-20A has lower voltage = good

Have I missed something good to know/do?

I really hope the third time is the charm although my other two previous builds work fine
Take care!

I keep seeing this recommendation for wiring parallel due to the fear of electrical jump. But every bridgelux document and Seoul semiconductor document I've read says to use a constant current driver when driving their LED modules. Even the article on arrow.com regarding picking drivers for your LEDs says you should use constant current unless the LED has a way of limiting current for itself.

Just curious how much of a risk the arcing is and why the manufacturers are recommending to wire in series?

Well I guess it's also the aspect of what the connectors on the strips can handle safely. If you wire 10x EB3 slim 590 in series @1A it will work, but the question is will it degrade and cause a failure. If so, when? I am atleast and I find it to be cool and my physalis and two different varieties of pepper like it a lot.
Just saw this video which is crazy. It seem to explain on a basic level, but left out how strong the current is. Better safer than not.


I looked around even more before purchasing the build mentioned. I found some PTC resetable fuses. They are to be placed first in the series of each parallell connection. Their specs are 1.3A(trip) and when tripped it will lower the current to 0.6A. They are safe for up to 10A which the driver can't provide. If one of the parallells fail this should in theory protect the others from thermal runaway. Then I can fix the issue and when done they will work as intended yet again.
I ordered the thrive, but are backordered to February. Let's hope it won't get postponed even further.

Nice on the resettable fuse!!!