Qb 324 v2

All things related to board-style lights (Quantum Boards, Logic Pucks, etc.)
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WhiteRecluse
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Hello all! I'm new to the forums but I have been a long time lurker. I've gotten all my info from here and other forums for years and never had to post really. I've done various DIY builds with all the info, so thank you to everyone for asking questions and especially to everyone who takes the time to answer them. I just seen that HLG has the QB 324 V2 boards with slate 2's for $79 on sale. I can't find any data sheets or get a reply from them for a suggested driver and I really want to order soon as stock seems to be an issue always.

My question is what heatsink will run 2 of the 324? v2's? I'd like to run them at 3-320 watts. Considering that the hlg 320-54 has a Max of 54 volts and the hlg site states 54+, I don't think will work. Will a 320h-2800 run two of them? I understand series and parrallel wiring but I can't extrapolate data when there are 18p 18s. My foggy brain just won't keep up with that nonsense.

I guess my biggest hang-up is the QB 288 320w kits that use the c1750 and put out 320w. The data sheet suggests 84-86 watts per board. I just can't grasp this.
Cheers!
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Jolly Green Giant
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welcome to the forum first off.. 😁

https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/c ... 24-led-kit

the kit they sell uses a triple board slate 2 heatsink.. which can handle up to 325w or so.. and the holes are right so you can center the two boards instead of one at each end leaving the middle gap..

since they switched to invotronic drivers.. I'm not sure what comes with it... but knowing they run 54+Vdc with a 3200ma max.. we can figure that with a HLG-320h-54b they will roughly get 2975ma each ( in parallel world they never run perfect.. one might be 2900ma other might be 3000.. diode beginning determines that) which is pushing them to 93% of max current and to 320watts..

or you can go with a HLG-320h-c2800b 2800ma.. it's only 87.5% of max which is better for the boards, but you will only get 300 ish watts max ( the closer you can max the voltage range on a CC driver the closer to max watts.) but 20 watts at this efficiency isn't much of a lose compared to running them softer.

oh yeah.. the 288 320 kit has a 2100 or -54 😁 the pic for the 324 kit I linked shows a -c1400 πŸ˜„πŸ˜„ trust the sheets not the pictures 😁

again welcome
WhiteRecluse
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Thank you much for the reply Jolly. Also for confirming my suspicions about the pictures and some unboxing vids I have seen. I'm not looking to crank these things to max or anything necessarily. I'll be dropping them in a 2x4 and running them at half current for veg and dialing it up for flower. I had a lot of luck with the 6 cxb3590 300 watt build I was using before. I had a buddy dead set on buying that light and I saw it as an opportunity to upgrade.

I looked again at the 320h datasheets. I must have had the -48v numbers in my head from the 288v2 build I was considering. I now see the voltage max of 58 and not the 54v. Again, thanks a ton for the info. $79 for a 324 with heatsink that uses the lm301b diodes? Very hard to pass that up.
Cheers!
WhiteRecluse
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I'm thinking the boards will run just over 56v per my simple math. Using the datasheet from the 288v2 it shows 49.86 at 2800. Divide that by 16 and multiply by 18 as the 324's have 18p. I will know for sure tomorrow and will post back with some info for "inquiring minds". This would put a max wattage on the c2800b of around 314w and close to the max voltage using 112 of 114v available. I opted for the b driver as I already have pots and I like how convenient it is using it externally. I also want to keep myself honest. Knowing I could crank an A driver a bit higher would eventually get the best of me.

Jolly, I will be hanging each 324 on it's own slate 2. I would like to mount the driver and pot outside the cab. Are there and voltage drop offs I should be concerned about when doing this?
Cheers!
WhiteRecluse
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Update. Got the boards hooked up and turned them on. I did check the voltage and found it to be lower than expected at 51.2v each. I then checked the current and it is running at exactly 2100mA. What are the odds I received a mislabeled driver and actually got a c2100b? The dimming leads we're not being used and we're isolated. I'll find out soon as I have an RMA for the driver in the process.
Cheers!
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