HLG-240H-C1750, 4 x qb132 build

[TerpyTyrone]

HLG-240H-C1750 was recommended to power the 4 Qb132 boards in series.
Without adding a potentiometer it will have 240 watts for 4 so that's 60 w each at full tilt.

I guess it has a built in potentiometer, so I can dim it but do I have to?

I'm looking to double this setup and possibly 3500k spectrum next time.

Any ideas on a frame? L channel aluminum?

[TerpyTyrone]

So it just has leads for the potentiometer.
Its actually version b. Do I need one? Can't I wire em together.

Also there are three leads on the input, I assume hot, neutral, ground. But this is Also compatible for 277v so I dont wanna fry it

[TerpyTyrone]

How am I doingg?

[unkle_psycho]

So it just has leads for the potentiometer.
Its actually version b. Do I need one? Can't I wire em together.

Also there are three leads on the input, I assume hot, neutral, ground. But this is Also compatible for 277v so I dont wanna fry it

I often use b type drivers without a potentiometer, I just cover the wire ends with a little tape.

[TerpyTyrone]

If I do that it will run at 240w correct?
These are rated up to 75w , so I'm good to run em at full strength for long durations without problems?
Your advice is appreciated. I am new to the forum

[TerpyTyrone]

So it just has leads for the potentiometer.
Its actually version b. Do I need one? Can't I wire em together.

Also there are three leads on the input, I assume hot, neutral, ground. But this is Also compatible for 277v so I dont wanna fry it

See my resply please

I often use b type drivers without a potentiometer, I just cover the wire ends with a little tape.

[unkle_psycho]

Sorry been busy...

I actually dont know if the potentiometer wires touching does anything or no. When I tape the wires I tape them separate with two pieces of tape - not together. Then my drivers run at full power.

Of course to get 100% power out of the driver need to still balance the fit with the strips.. you still loose as much as your voltage is of the drivers max values.

[TerpyTyrone]

Sorry been busy...

I actually dont know if the potentiometer wires touching does anything or no. When I tape the wires I tape them separate with two pieces of tape - not together. Then my drivers run at full power.

Of course to get 100% power out of the driver need to still balance the fit with the strips.. you still loose as much as your voltage is of the drivers max values.

Thanks. Good to know. I have the pots coming. I will probably wait ubtil I solder em on, to power her up

[unkle_psycho]

Sorry been busy...

I actually dont know if the potentiometer wires touching does anything or no. When I tape the wires I tape them separate with two pieces of tape - not together. Then my drivers run at full power.

Of course to get 100% power out of the driver need to still balance the fit with the strips.. you still loose as much as your voltage is of the drivers max values.

Thanks. Good to know. I have the pots coming. I will probably wait ubtil I solder em on, to power her up

Yeah its worth putting the potentiometer since you can. I don't end up using them too often but have potentiometers in some of my drivers. If I didn't have separate veg lights I would probably dim more.

[Nuggie]

If I do that it will run at 240w correct?
These are rated up to 75w , so I'm good to run em at full strength for long durations without problems?
Your advice is appreciated. I am new to the forum

Running at 60W and being rated for 75W that gives you a 1.25 safety factor - your good to go.

On the driver side you'll be running it at full tilt. You should contact meanwell on whether you need a safety factor - each driver mfg will have their own recommendations. When I ordered my Inventronics drivers I asked their applications engineer if I could run at 100% and she said that the safety factor had already been built in over and above 100% but said that question is product specific. From another viewpoint my local electrician advised me to put a safety factor on the driver as low as 1.15 but target 1.20. An engineer with a lighting company that I saw on youtube advises to put a 1.25 safety factor on the driver so if you wanted 240W you would need a driver capable of 240 x 1.25 = 300W.

It ultimately is case specific as it depends on ambient temperature/cooling/how hard its run. These parameters will give you the case temperature of the driver - if you have the driver running in -20C at full tilt I wouldn't go with any safety factor. In the end its ultimately up to the end user but putting a temperature sensor gun ($20) on it and it will tell you all you need to know by checking the temperature at the TC point on the driver and then compare this to the driver spec's - this will give you the expected lifetime in hours.

The case temperature is also what the manufacturer would want to know should a warranty issue arise.