Confirming parts list for 4x 240W QB288

[ocg420]

Hello Everyone,

I originally posted on this forum asking about a DIY strip build for a 4x4. Since that time I've done some more reading and ultimately accepted that building a QB from a kit may be more appropriate for my (limited) skill level.

I'm at a point where I think I have all the parts I need and just looking for someone smarter than I am to take a look and let me know if it all makes sense:

Parts List
8x QB 288 V2 3500K, LM301B quantum board
4x HLG-240H-C2100A
4x triple (3') heatsink
4x hangers
20x two-pole WAGO connectors
4x power cords
18g solid core wire

This should create 4x 240W fixtures = 480W per 4x4 space as I am trying to get lights for 8x4 total.

Am I missing anything?

And I have a specific question about the driver:

Originally I had the HLG-240H-48B and an external potentiometer as part of above combo. But someone who seems a lot smarter than I am explained the following about the HLG-240H-C2100A:

They run at 2.43A. Or about 12% higher than the B HLG-240H-48B. The board's listed 2.7A max. With the triple heat sinks, you can handle the extra heat. Downside is you can only dim via the on-board screw potentiometer.

Does that make sense?/Am I better off to go with the C2100A?

Thank you for taking the time to help.

[Jolly Green Giant]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NALYP ... AFWM&psc=1

something like these are nice for the A.C. side of the driver.. Wagos work fine, but these are just extra precautions.. they're waterproof and you really can't knock them loose..

as for which driver, either or will be fine... it would depend on if you prefer series or parallel wiring.. technically it's better to run diodes at a constant current, but parallel gives you the ability to add more diodes and run all overall softer ( higher u mole/j ) personally, I probably would use the c2100a's..

yeah with slate 2 triples you don't have to worry about the heat from pushing the boards a little harder..

A type dimming can be a drawback if you have minimal room / height.. I rarely dim because I have extra room above to just raise the light instead of dimming.. it's always full blast... just normally set to 24-30" in veg, 16-18" in flower..

but there's another way around that, you could always mount all the drivers outside the tent on a piece of plywood, and hang it so you can easily dim each set.. takes the extra driver head outside the tent and makes A types for more power, easier to dim

edit: I should of linked these now that I think about https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N0V4F ... VkaXJlY3Q=
instead of having 4 a.c. wall plugs.. you can use 2 of these and only need 2 a.c. wall plugs ( one for each 4x4).. not 100% sure if you could use a third one, and bring all 4 drivers to 1 plug.. I think the amperage is too close for comfort.. but 2 a.c. plugs will definitely work..

[Nuggie]

If your going hydro and your AC outlets are inside your grow space install GFCI plugs on the wall.

[ocg420]

something like these are nice for the A.C. side of the driver.. Wagos work fine, but these are just extra precautions.. they're waterproof and you really can't knock them loose..

as for which driver, either or will be fine... it would depend on if you prefer series or parallel wiring.. technically it's better to run diodes at a constant current, but parallel gives you the ability to add more diodes and run all overall softer ( higher u mole/j ) personally, I probably would use the c2100a's..

yeah with slate 2 triples you don't have to worry about the heat from pushing the boards a little harder..

A type dimming can be a drawback if you have minimal room / height.. I rarely dim because I have extra room above to just raise the light instead of dimming.. it's always full blast... just normally set to 24-30" in veg, 16-18" in flower..

but there's another way around that, you could always mount all the drivers outside the tent on a piece of plywood, and hang it so you can easily dim each set.. takes the extra driver head outside the tent and makes A types for more power, easier to dim

I really appreciate all your tips. The connectors you linked do seem a lot safer so I will go that route.

I think I will end up doing the same as you (lowering or raising height vs dimming). But good to know there's a workaround if I decide I need to access driver to dim.

When it comes to whether or not I should wire in series or parallel, this is something I need to do more research on. I don't think I will need to add diodes to these lights, and I'm very much hoping to find a video guide which uses the exact same method I'm going to use. So really I think I should look to make sure I can find a guide which uses a constant current driver and wires in series. Thanks for flagging!

[ocg420]

If your going hydro and your AC outlets are inside your grow space install GFCI plugs on the wall.

Thanks for this tip. The current plan is to keep the plugs on outside of tent but after reading a quick article on GFCI plugs it seems like a good idea to change to that no matter what.

Thanks again!

[ocg420]

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to circle back and say thanks to those who helped me.

I replaced my outlets and finished wiring all 4 boards last night. A couple weeks later than I originally planned but life happens.

At the end of the day it cost me $1068 CAN for 4x 240w V2 kits which include the longer heat sinks and HLG-240H-C2100A drivers. This includes all duty, tax and delivery to Ontario, Canada.

Just thought I would share final costs in case someone else is shopping around and looking to compare.

Thanks again,
@Ocg420