building a quantum set up for a 5x5 on the cheap

[unkle_psycho]

For all meanwells drivers they have two versions, A and B. One of those produces around 10% more then promised, I can't remember which, since I didn't use them yet.

3 x 240 = 720w, and if you wanted more then that, you could get the version with 10% more power, and be around 790w.

If you wanted it all to be dimmable, you would need another 3 drivers to handle the other color temperature. That's how I set mine up, so I have 450w in a light that covers 2x4. 9 x 560mm strips. This way I have full 225w power at any color temperature. I doubt I will ever run the lamp harder, but temperature wise I could (the 24 short strips I have left will go for side lighting)

It really depends on how much area you want to have tunable. In my case it will be half of my space, thats enough for veg and stretchy pheno's I might have in a mixed flowering run. Then I'll get to entertain myself with another build for the other side, and compare performance.

Cheapest option would be to have a third of your space as tunable, so you would need 2 240w drivers for that. Then two more for the rest of your space. Four drivers would cost about 200$, and you should easily afford enough strips for whats left. Heatsink usa makes amazing stuff for strips, for really cheap too. They would all likely be overkill for your planned build. You would be feeding less then 25w per strip.

[unkle_psycho]

Oh, and you can push either channel to around 50w, so 25w is 50% of the channel max. Could run without heatsinks, but it would be around 50c (120f) without fanning. I think 80c (175f) is the max temperature

[unkle_psycho]

I still didn't get a message from my electronics friend, but I think I figured 2 ways that the system could be set to basic tunability without double drivers.

1. Both driver output cables go into a dial that allows you to chose between A, B and AB. A is 2700k and B is 5000k. I used to have a three way dial that allowed me to select if music goes to my bedroom, living room or both. One dial like this should allow you to select between either spectrum or their mix.

2. Wiring the driver to feed both spectrums, but putting an on/off switch on both would give the same functionality.

This setup is separate from dimming, which could still be installed if wanted.

This looks very much like the one i had. Don't know if they make these types of switches for other purposes, or if the audio watt limit matters.

[slymer]

I still didn't get a message from my electronics friend, but I think I figured 2 ways that the system could be set to basic tunability without double drivers.

1. Both driver output cables go into a dial that allows you to chose between A, B and AB. A is 2700k and B is 5000k. I used to have a three way dial that allowed me to select if music goes to my bedroom, living room or both. One dial like this should allow you to select between either spectrum or their mix.

2. Wiring the driver to feed both spectrums, but putting an on/off switch on both would give the same functionality.

This setup is separate from dimming, which could still be installed if wanted.

This looks very much like the one i had. Don't know if they make these types of switches for other purposes, or if the audio watt limit matters.

That 3 way switch is amazing ! Yea that seams like the perfect idea so I could run full power on 2700k or 5000k and 3700k, that stereo speaker selector says it's limit is 10 audio watts and as you said I would be hesitant putting over 500 watts through it , I would defiantly still want to add dimming as if I went with two hlg-480s one for each light I would not want that much power being used in my 5x5, I think I'm going to stop by a car stereo shop and see if they have any switches that can handle a lot of power or of the 10 audio watts means much ,

[unkle_psycho]

Yeah I'm kinda surprised about that, most of them had the limit in 100s of watts, just that particular one was low.

I went to alibaba, and there were lots of different types of switches and dials available, so I imagine a well equipped store in the US would also be able to advise you on a solution. There was a 4 way switch with 0, 1, 2, and 1+2... 0 meaning off.

Decided to rebuild mine to the same idea too. Instead of 6 drivers to get 225w, I'll drop one strip, and use 4 drivers to get 300w. Still only 37.5w per strip.

Oh, and just looking at 'light switch' on alibaba, there were tons of interesting looking switches, not sure if they could be setup in the same way. Then just searching 'switch' there was even a selection of 100 different on/off buttons for a few dollars. Lots of cool looking stuff.

Anyway, a car shop might have something. I figure your best bet would be a shop selling technical gear to builders or electricians, rather then home or car owners. They would have lots of great choices, and probably be able to advise you well

[slymer]

instead of switches on the 2700k side and 5000k side could i just add a potentiometer for each line and if i dimmed for example the 2700k side the power would just move to the 5000k side so i could use one driver and have 480 watts always being used?

i think i want to make two seperate lights for the 5x5, and have 10 2ft vestas with a hlg-480 for each light , would this work for each light and which exact hlg-480 would i need? thank you guys!!

i dropped from 30 vestas to 20 for the build because the drivers are costing more then buying 10 $10 75w drivers

[unkle_psycho]

instead of switches on the 2700k side and 5000k side could i just add a potentiometer for each line and if i dimmed for example the 2700k side the power would just move to the 5000k side so i could use one driver and have 480 watts always being used?

i think i want to make two seperate lights for the 5x5, and have 10 2ft vestas with a hlg-480 for each light , would this work for each light and which exact hlg-480 would i need? thank you guys!!

i dropped from 30 vestas to 20 for the build because the drivers are costing more then buying 10 $10 75w drivers

I'm not sure if the potentiometer can be put in such a location, or only on the wires for it. Someone will likely know. Any simple switch should do though, but you would need to have one per channel per driver. They were selling like 100 switches for 3$ on aliexpress, so they should not cost much at any electronics store or something.

50w per strip will be ok, but you will need something as heatsinks. Have you looked at the stuff from heatsinkusa, or do you have something else in mind?

About the exact driver choice better wait for someone else too.

[sdfoster22]

You might be able to use the Hlg-480h-24a might be able to be pushed above the 25.2v max, and get to the 25.3-25.v volts needed to run each row at about 1.5a. That would give you roughly 760w with 2 of them, and about 30w per sq ft.

You could pretty much do the same thing with the hlg-320h-24a and get about 746w. At a cheaper price.

If you wanted to get a dial like that, it would have to be rated higher than the volts, amps, and wattage you would be running. 75% of the max rating is mostly what is recommended with electricity. Who would know if it even exists.

[unkle_psycho]

The key word for the dial form for electricity seems to be 'rotary switch'. Heres my results on aliexpress for a search on "4 way rotary switch". I think the smartest one would be one where you could choose 0=off 1=2700k 2=5000k 3=1+2

https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?ca ... ary+switch

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1pc-4-P ... autifyAB=0

Perhaps your regular light switch with 4 selectors would also work in controlling channels... open both channels to have a mixed spectrum.