Basic guide to datasheets for strip lights and the drivers that power them.
Temperature measurments of leds is usually the junction temperature. It depends on which one you are referring to exactly as some data sheets have several temperature graphs like ambient temperature.
Some manufacturers have hot binning now especially with COB leds as they are always hot.
Some manufacturers have hot binning now especially with COB leds as they are always hot.
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Yep, the spots like these ones:
I'm curious about, for example, opulent and seoul HE, among others. The way I see it, as a 'bystander', these measurements are useless without knowing what kind of cooling they use. Seoul HE for example has a graph that shows their strip operating at 0-700mA with Tc=25C. Surely they must be cooling it somehow to have the exact same operating temperatures at 10 and 700mA.
I'm curious about, for example, opulent and seoul HE, among others. The way I see it, as a 'bystander', these measurements are useless without knowing what kind of cooling they use. Seoul HE for example has a graph that shows their strip operating at 0-700mA with Tc=25C. Surely they must be cooling it somehow to have the exact same operating temperatures at 10 and 700mA.
This is why data sheets don't work properly. Most of the time they do a few fast measurements and then make a graph. The only way to test a product properly is at operating temperature.
I don't have a choice with my equipment I have to test it with at least some heat in it so I usually test once an led has stabilized.
I don't have a choice with my equipment I have to test it with at least some heat in it so I usually test once an led has stabilized.
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I watched a bunch of led Gardner videos and I've come up with my plan.
I've got 26 one foot neutral white Bridgelux Gen2 strips arriving tomorrow.
I'm going to hook them all up in parallel using my 24 V adjustable, constant voltage power supply.
I'm mounting them horizontally on all four walls with six rows from top to bottom and use them as side lighting.
I'm not going to use heat sinks. I'll space them about 1/2" off the walls.
I figure they won't be able to be anywhere near fully cranked so I won't need to worry about maximum voltage or current.
The only parameter I want to watch very closely is my temperature.
Which leads to my question.
How do you use the temperature test point?
Is that where I beam my IR thermometer at?
Or am I supposed to solder a wire to it and plug it into my multimeter?
I don't want to be anywhere near the 85°C maximum and figure maybe 70°C?
Is my IR thermometer adequate?
And would I get an erroneous reading if I aimed it directly at the surface of the LED segments?
How do I properly monitor my temperature?
I've got 26 one foot neutral white Bridgelux Gen2 strips arriving tomorrow.
I'm going to hook them all up in parallel using my 24 V adjustable, constant voltage power supply.
I'm mounting them horizontally on all four walls with six rows from top to bottom and use them as side lighting.
I'm not going to use heat sinks. I'll space them about 1/2" off the walls.
I figure they won't be able to be anywhere near fully cranked so I won't need to worry about maximum voltage or current.
The only parameter I want to watch very closely is my temperature.
Which leads to my question.
How do you use the temperature test point?
Is that where I beam my IR thermometer at?
Or am I supposed to solder a wire to it and plug it into my multimeter?
I don't want to be anywhere near the 85°C maximum and figure maybe 70°C?
Is my IR thermometer adequate?
And would I get an erroneous reading if I aimed it directly at the surface of the LED segments?
How do I properly monitor my temperature?
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Teknik could answer this in a more qualified manner.
If your multimeter came with a thermocouple, then you could apply some thin tape as an insulator over the test point area.
And then tape the thermocouple firmly over that, to read and record temperature.
Using an ir thermometer on the surface near/with running led's is problematical. Normally would be done by applying black masking tape to a segment on back of strip, and reading from that black mask. Shiny reflective surfaces not so good with ir temperature guns.
If your multimeter came with a thermocouple, then you could apply some thin tape as an insulator over the test point area.
And then tape the thermocouple firmly over that, to read and record temperature.
Using an ir thermometer on the surface near/with running led's is problematical. Normally would be done by applying black masking tape to a segment on back of strip, and reading from that black mask. Shiny reflective surfaces not so good with ir temperature guns.
Hi. Can I use a HLG-480H-24 driver on 20x bridgelux gen3 560mm running in pararell? That is a 20A driver so 1A max for each strip. How about the voltage parameters? The driver constant current region is 12v- 24v but the voltage range is 20.4v-25.2v, not sure if it would be a problem as the strips voltage range is lower.
Guess it would be ok but would like to be sure before buying... thank you!
Guess it would be ok but would like to be sure before buying... thank you!
It would work on an A or AB driver, you will be getting towards the higher side of 24V so if you get a high voltage bin it could cause an issue on a B driver but I doubt it will.Gauss wrote: ↑Sat Aug 22, 2020 12:16 amHi. Can I use a HLG-480H-24 driver on 20x bridgelux gen3 560mm running in pararell? That is a 20A driver so 1A max for each strip. How about the voltage parameters? The driver constant current region is 12v- 24v but the voltage range is 20.4v-25.2v, not sure if it would be a problem as the strips voltage range is lower.
Guess it would be ok but would like to be sure before buying... thank you!
Its best to add a few more strips if you can to increase efficiency
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Thank you! I am getting 20 as I am backordering then. At first I tought about using the HLG-320H-20 with 15A output, that would limit the max current at 750mA. I guess it would be a nice set up, but since the price diference for the drivers are not high, I switched to the 20A version to get some space to more power per strip or more strips on the future. So I plan to use the 20A dimming A version and run then at less then 1000mA for now.
This set up is for a 3x3 feet (1m x 1m) tend.
This set up is for a 3x3 feet (1m x 1m) tend.