Or_Gro and the epic smackdown

The fruits of our labor. We welcome all types of plants, but grows posted here must be legal.
Or_Gro
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:evil:
Randomblame wrote:
Sun Jul 07, 2019 5:29 am
Or_Gro wrote:
Sat Jul 06, 2019 9:12 pm
TEKNIK wrote:
Sat Jul 06, 2019 8:44 pm
From my limited understanding of co2 intake and maximum micromouls it is in direct relation to the spectrum.
Plants that receive sunlight in a green house can take more micromouls before co2 is required.
Under artificial lights I am pretty sure 1000 micromouls is maximum before co2 is required to go further.
There is probably a high chance that artificial lights have a more focused beneficial spectrum so although sunlight is able to hit the plants with more it isn't doing anything that is beneficial, the plants may just regulate themselves differently under the broader spectrum.
More research is required but I pretty certain there is a way to increase productivity without co2 and just with a different spectrum.
The chart rb showed clearly shows higher lst,, upto a point, increases productivity.

My own measurements show 3-5 degree F diffs between lst and airtemp, when air temps are mid- to upper-70s, under all three types of white leds.

So, this approach certainly has its benefits for white leds...
3-5° less leaf temps is a bit much IMO. LST should actually stabilize 1-2° lower than ambient. At the end of the day my leaf temps are often as high as my ambient temps or within 0,5°. Only the 1st half of the day LST stay slightly lower but -2° they reach within the 1st hour.
Do you use one of the atomizer donuts in this room? Was there condensing water? This could have an effect on the LST and keep the leaves cooler.
To avoid condensation inside my grow area's I increase the humidity in my lung room to 70-80% to get 60-70% inside my grow area. I also add the CO2 there... Doing it this way I can keep my windows closed over the day and open them only at night. When the windows and doors are closed the humidity increase automaticly by the amount of water evaporated by the plants. That's more than enough humidity.. Sometimes I have even to use my dehumidifier to keep it at a certain level.
My lung room has 18m² and my grow area is only 0,84m² and it takes only around an hour to get the RH where I want it.
Only in early veg when the plants are small I have to add humidification but as soon as the area is almost filled with green thats no longer neccessary.

Is there a way to use the lung room this way and keep the level higher in the whole room? You have 6x as much grow area, the plants should easily create more vapor than neccessary.
The only down side is that water is condensing at the colder windows(dew point) and I have to direct a fan on the windows to avaid it. But its only a small 120mm PC fan, so not a big thing..
As long as the lung room dries one time the day you can avoid getting mold easily. When windows at "night" are open humidity goes down to 50-60% and till now I've not found any mold.
(knock-knock-knock)
It also saves a lot CO² and the Oxygene level also increase over the day when you keep the room closed/sealed.
Its maybe worth a try .. if its possible..
Thanks

Well, right now the plants are too small to produce enuff humidity on their own. And, yes, there is some condensation on the walls, due to diff in temp outside vs inside each tent (cooler outside).

So once again Dr. @Randomblame nails a long-distance diagnosis.

As for the fix, i could bump external rh setting to 70% from 60%, which i’ll try. The room containing the tents is so much larger than the tents, and its rh is difficult to hold that high.

The best way i’ve found so far, to hit rh target, at this stage, is with a vaporizer inside each tent. So it’s constant battle to get Goldilocks balance between temp and rh. I tend to err on hitting rh over temp.

After the plants have enuff leaves, the issue reverses, but is way easier to deal with. I was just getting to that point, before i topped these girls. Once i get done training, life gets easier.

You probably recall the nute issues i had with the green crack, during training, last grow.. This time i have more capability to boost rh in the tents...so, some progress made....
Or_Gro
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Or_Gro wrote:
Sun Jul 07, 2019 7:03 am
Frank Cannon wrote:
Sun Jul 07, 2019 6:32 am
@or_gro and @randomblame

Currently paying back my wife for her hard work in the Windtunnels when I'm away as promised :mrgreen:
20190707_142808.jpg
You bought her a beer?
Enjoy dude,!
Or_Gro
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Day 8: Girls reacting well to yesterday’s changes, air temps 81-83F, leaf surface temps 77-78F.

Prawns:
AF55E229-5E96-42C8-9B6E-233D96A49038.jpeg

288s:
CC0AC898-3351-4CDA-AF15-853B68B1BD95.jpeg

96s:
C1CE94AF-3096-492A-BCAE-477B24F9256B.jpeg

Expecting growth to start ramping now...as leaves enlarge.
Or_Gro
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Speaking of growth....heeere’s mama!
D9BB1A3D-5A5F-452E-9D03-9DA78D069C90.jpeg
79912CE5-9DCF-47BE-BDC3-BB7A3B4A5C3F.jpeg
Marine2143
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Randomblame wrote:
Sun Jul 07, 2019 9:13 am
TEKNIK wrote:
Sat Jul 06, 2019 8:44 pm
From my limited understanding of co2 intake and maximum micromouls it is in direct relation to the spectrum.
Plants that receive sunlight in a green house can take more micromouls before co2 is required.
Under artificial lights I am pretty sure 1000 micromouls is maximum before co2 is required to go further.
There is probably a high chance that artificial lights have a more focused beneficial spectrum so although sunlight is able to hit the plants with more it isn't doing anything that is beneficial, the plants may just regulate themselves differently under the broader spectrum.
More research is required but I pretty certain there is a way to increase productivity without co2 and just with a different spectrum.
Sunlight is not only direct light a good part of it is diffuse. In greenhouses the pro's always use diffusing materials cuz diffuse light yields up to 12% higher compared to direct light. Diffuse light eliminates shadows and it travels much deeper inside the canopy. So the diffuse light is one of the factors why plants outdoor develope better. On cloudy days all the light is diffuse and as long as the temps stay high enough the photosynthetic rate stays almost the same.
Sunlight is also not constant, the intensity goes often up and down because of clouds.

Bad thing for us, we lose at least 6% of the light when using diffusers in front of our diodes. Even the best pmma materials have only 94% trasmission rate and as soon as we use a higher haze factor the transmission loss gets even higher.

Pretty sure you know fresnel lenses. Such fresnels could be used to focus the light on a certain surface area and get more diffuse light in the same time. Even if we lose 6% intensity the diffuse light could maybe compensate that. They would also improve the color mixing when different diodes are used and would reduce dazzling effects and help to get a more uniform spectrum. Aloha & Excellent points about diffused light in horticulture. When it comes to LED and light diffusers I think Migro has a real nice system. I like his new 5K Cob system for plant propagation. https://www.migrolight.com/about/
The tomato plants in greenhouses are often +10m high and there is only 1m in between two rows of plants. Without diffusing cavity-plates the fruits on the bottom of the plants would not get enough light and they would yield much less.

Outdoors you always have diffuse light also when there are no clouds. The air is full of dust, vapor and other small particles and these also have diffusing effects.

Another reason why plants outdoor develope better is their root system at least when they are transplanted directly to the ground. The bigger the the root ball the bigger the plant. Always if you see 4-5m high monster plants with 5-6m perimeter they either have huge pots or are planted directly in the ground. Root temps also stay almost constant no matter if its day or night. The ground keeps the heat long enough so it swings only by 1 or 2° between night and day and that only on the grounds surface.

The wind outdoors also helps the light to travel deeper and the evaporation is much better distributed over the whole plant and not only focussed on the canopy like indoors.

The heat is also not only concentrated on the 1st few inches of the canopy. Outdoors the surrounding heat is almost the same from top of the plant down to the bottom.

All this things have effects and are different from indoor conditions. We can only try to keep a good balance between temps, humidity and intensity. Outdoor this happens almost automaticly and even under bad conditions the plant can adjust themself. If indoor only one of the 3 aspects change it immediately affects the photosynthetic rate.

IMO the best way to increase yield/m² is to go into the vertical and add a 2nd layer of plants and another light. With LED strips we need only 36"/1m of total heigth when we use cuttings and veg them less than a week. 8" high pots and strips mounted on U-profiles would still leave 30" free space for the plants in between. Enough for the most strains..
I've helped a friend to build two 350w strip lights for his 4x 4' tent(10pc 4ft EBgen2 strips + HLG-320H-20A). He has two stacked areas now, each with 36pc 1gal teku pots with coco and he regularly yields a pound or more from each light. Thats +1kg every 8-9 weeks out of a 4x 4' tent. Even outdoor plants can't do that in the same time..
Marine2143
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Aloha & I like the way MIGRO diffuses light with his new 5K cob system for plant propagation.https://www.migrolight.com/about/
Marine2143
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Aloha & I was following up the prior comments by Randomblame on your thread concerning diffused light.
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TEKNIK
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Regarding diffusers and optics, although there is a significant loss to the output of the light this can often be overcome with the correct optics. What optics can do is allow you to drop the lights closer to the plants, if the optics are done correctly this can actually make the light more intense at hitting the canopy.
I have played around a lot with optics and although I don't show some of the things I have done it's possible to achieve an increase of 25% more light at the canopy while only loosing 8% because of optics.
There are a few different methods to do this.

The best method gets expensive fast but it is ideal for farms, I wouldn't bother too much about it with a normal DIY as the price increases by nearly 3X.
It is because of this I am more focused on spectrum development rather than efficiency as I can take a large hit on efficiency but still outperform at the canopy.
Find me on Instagram led_teknik
Marine2143
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Aloha TEKNIK & Here in Hawaii we have often observed the plants growing better on cloudy days. 800 -900 umol vs full sun at 2,000 umol. Do you think we can reduce the Haze Sativa stretch using more blue? 5.5 k vs 3.5k?
norml56
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I know this is dedicated to LED but the 315watt CMH is a great addition to a LED lit garden ;) I just picked up a 4100k bulb to see how it does alongside the 2700 k QB 288's I was running a 3100k CMH prior and it was doing great but wanted a more blue-leaning spectrum and the bulb was running on 2 years old.
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