New home, new build. We've decided to build a small, out of sight, sealed lung room design in the garage and using some attic space directly above.
Starting with a 2' deep by ~5' wide footprint in the garage corner, we have 83" of height. Within this space I think I can build a two-level garden, with 40" height each. The space in the attic directly above will be enclosed as a lung room and hold the air handling gear.
Pictures now because 1p=1kw
Before, from the attic looking down
Now, in garage
Now, in attic
There is more work to do. Running some cat5 to the network hub, pulling new electrical line & subpanel, other details etc. But eventually it will be insulated, enclosed, primed, sealed, recirculating air loop (heat, cool, hum, dehum, co2 & fresh air controlled w/ RPi, UVC scrubber), with fresh air from the garage and an exhaust thru the roof.
The entire portion in the garage will be drywalled, trimmed & painted to resemble the other cabinets in the garage. The top half will be one large chamber while the lower half will be split, with another flower light for the bottom left and a germ/veg space on the right. Lights for the top half will come from my pile of QB22A strips, I'm hoping I can use at least 24+ of them. 33 strips in a 2x5 space would be a hoot.
So that'll give us 3 flowering spaces, each ~2'x2.5'x40". Each plant will be on a drawer with a scrog frame built in, closed with 4 big doors with refridgerator gaskets. I'll reuse my HLG-600 for flowering, and the veg quarter needs its own lights & ventilation. The todo list is really long, the ultimate implementation will take more money than I currently have, but the ball's rolling.
Question: I'm trying to devise a way to attach QB22A strips to 2020 extrusion. Like a small 3d printed clip that grabs the strip then gets snapped into the grove of a 2020? Anyone have a tip?
New build, work in progress.
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- LED-Curious
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You put some serious work into this! Not sure what you're growin' but have you considered a spot for drying beef jerky yet if needed.
Wish I could see the pieces you are wanting to join together.
Is this something you could build from a thin piece of aluminum using a dremel tool?
otherwise *cough* zip-ties *cough*
Wish I could see the pieces you are wanting to join together.
Is this something you could build from a thin piece of aluminum using a dremel tool?
otherwise *cough* zip-ties *cough*
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- LED Enthusiast
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- Joined: Thu Feb 27, 2020 11:52 am
Mr Wire looks like he has some friends with utility. What sensor are you going to use for humidity?
Those printed clips had some potential. Although would have prefered a design that held the strip in close contact with the aluminium, rather than acting as a stand-off. Like a flat bellied "C", with the strip inside the C the two ends of the "C" clipping into the two slots on the vertical sides of the extrusion. Just like your example, but with longer legs and instead of the strip being held to the clip, the clip would hold the strip firmly against the extrusion. (that bit for the T-slot that sticks out in your example could be gone) Is there any reason you want the strips to stand-off and not be heatsinked?
The t-slot extrusion makes frame building a breeze, but its costly. To me, 16 x 16/ 20 x 20 T-slot isnt ideal for heatsinking. Unless there is an option to get it with one side having no slot. That would be the ideal surface to mount to and sink heat from.
But you are using Q strips. Wouldn't that track extrusion that carpenters use for their tools be better. I have seen it online in 19mm and 30mm widths. Bet it has enough mass and surface area to allow for sinking. Its crazy price in UK. But think with the bigger market in continental US, the price is probably much better.
How hard were you thinking of running the 4ft strips?
Those printed clips had some potential. Although would have prefered a design that held the strip in close contact with the aluminium, rather than acting as a stand-off. Like a flat bellied "C", with the strip inside the C the two ends of the "C" clipping into the two slots on the vertical sides of the extrusion. Just like your example, but with longer legs and instead of the strip being held to the clip, the clip would hold the strip firmly against the extrusion. (that bit for the T-slot that sticks out in your example could be gone) Is there any reason you want the strips to stand-off and not be heatsinked?
The t-slot extrusion makes frame building a breeze, but its costly. To me, 16 x 16/ 20 x 20 T-slot isnt ideal for heatsinking. Unless there is an option to get it with one side having no slot. That would be the ideal surface to mount to and sink heat from.
But you are using Q strips. Wouldn't that track extrusion that carpenters use for their tools be better. I have seen it online in 19mm and 30mm widths. Bet it has enough mass and surface area to allow for sinking. Its crazy price in UK. But think with the bigger market in continental US, the price is probably much better.
How hard were you thinking of running the 4ft strips?
I don't need the strips heatsinked. I'm aiming for 32 Q strips in 4S8P on a hlg-240h-C1400A, so that's only 0.175A each. It's going to be a QB2560!
There's one AM2315 sensor for temp&humidity and two temp-only MCP9808 (Mr Wire and his neighbor Mr Sensor). I want at least one more hum sensor which will have to be a different sensor because the am2315 doesn't have adjustable i2c address; maybe a DHT22. Eventually a SenseAir S8 sensor for CO2.
There's one AM2315 sensor for temp&humidity and two temp-only MCP9808 (Mr Wire and his neighbor Mr Sensor). I want at least one more hum sensor which will have to be a different sensor because the am2315 doesn't have adjustable i2c address; maybe a DHT22. Eventually a SenseAir S8 sensor for CO2.
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- LED Enthusiast
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Ah, running naked and low. Commendable. So the strips would be 90° to the extrusion?Shimbob wrote: ↑Tue Mar 10, 2020 12:23 amI don't need the strips heatsinked. I'm aiming for 32 Q strips in 4S8P on a hlg-240h-C1400A, so that's only 0.175A each. It's going to be a QB2560!
There's one AM2315 sensor for temp&humidity and two temp-only MCP9808 (Mr Wire and his neighbor Mr Sensor). I want at least one more hum sensor which will have to be a different sensor because the am2315 doesn't have adjustable i2c address; maybe a DHT22. Eventually a SenseAir S8 sensor for CO2.
I have no experience with hooking up and running sensors, but would like to learn.
Are you using some kind of I2C bus system? Seen a DS2484 i2c to one wire, 8 channel master breakout board. Also spotted breakout boards on Tindie using a large variety of temp/humidity sensors (SHT31/35, LMT70, BME680). Just FYI, if you're looking for inspiration.
Indeed I2C for all the sensors, ties back to the pi running mycodo. I also have some relays ready to be installed and am shopping for a quality contactor to handle the heavy amps of the drivers.
I do have inkbird gadgets but I can't get a remote controlled web interface on them.
I do have inkbird gadgets but I can't get a remote controlled web interface on them.