New EB Gen 2 Build - Input on Choices

[intermediate_noob]

Hello fellow gardeners!

I am going to be putting together a new lighting setup to replace my current CFLs and wanted your input on my choices. I will be using 12 BXEB-L0280Z-50E1000-C-B3s along with a Meanwell HLG-150H-20A. This was based on the input from LEDG regarding Buck5050s build post (viewtopic.php?f=11&t=246) and running each 280mm strip at 600 mA current, 20 VDC. My thought is to simply run these in parallel with Wago connectors. I also plan on using the 1" heatsinks from heatsinkusa.com.

I will be setting these up in a ladder pattern and putting them on wire shelving, similar to LEDGs build (https://imgur.com/a/D0SPp). There will be 6 strips per shelf and I hope to grow a variety of leafy greens and other vegetables as well (hopefully peppers too!).

Any flaws that you all can see in this setup or areas of concern? Any help would be greatly appreciated; thanks!

[Aurust]

I'm doing almost the same thing. Using the same strips just with 6 instead of 12 which means I'll use the Meanwell HLG-80H-20A as I only need 4 amps evening driving the strips at 650ma, closest I'd want to max .

[LEDG]

Looks solid!

[intermediate_noob]

One question I had was setting the pot on the driver. When you first hook everything together and make sure that there are no bad connections, is it best to set the driver to its lowest output and then measure the current until it gets to where you want it to be?

Thanks again for all the help!

[LEDG]

Here’s a good way to do it - set the current pot to max, set the voltage pot to minimum.

Turn up the voltage until you see the amount of current you need. Then, turn the current pot down until you see the current start to decrease. Once you find this point, carefully adjust the current back up to your desired level. This way, you have effectively capped the current at the max level you want.

If you don’t take the current pot down, the system will pull more than you want it to as it heats up.

[intermediate_noob]

Thank you LEDG! I just pulled the trigger for my build so hopefully when I return next week it will all be here waiting for me. I will make sure to post pics of the progress.

[LEDG]

Thank you LEDG! I just pulled the trigger for my build so hopefully when I return next week it will all be here waiting for me. I will make sure to post pics of the progress.

Right on. Please do!

[Aurust]

Would this method work for a driver that I've picked so that I can expand the system in the future? I'm going to buy a driver that could handle twice as many strips as what I am initially going to use so that I can add another shelf in the future. Is this going to cause an issue or can I just dial back the power supply until I add the extra strips?

Here’s a good way to do it - set the current pot to max, set the voltage pot to minimum.

Turn up the voltage until you see the amount of current you need. Then, turn the current pot down until you see the current start to decrease. Once you find this point, carefully adjust the current back up to your desired level. This way, you have effectively capped the current at the max level you want.

If you don’t take the current pot down, the system will pull more than you want it to as it heats up.

[LEDG]

Yup you can do exactly this.

[intermediate_noob]

So my build has been slowly coming together and I am getting ready to start wiring it all together but I had another startup question. I ended up going with a B-series driver instead of an A to remotely mount the potentiometer and wondered if there was any other considerations for "first start" with regard to turning it down all the way, etc. Also, should I measure current and voltage for each strip after they have had time to heat up to make sure?

Sorry for all the questions, but just want to make sure it is set before getting it installed. Thanks!