Efficient Driver for 4x QB

ronaldmosely · Sat Jan 27, 2018 10:31 pm

@LEDG the 600 -54A would be sufficient when running these 4 boards?

Mcalidan · Sat Jan 27, 2018 11:20 pm

Thanks for the info again. I'm glad the topic switched to heatsinks. HLG seems to always be sold out of the pre-drilled heatsinks. As an alternative I bought a 1/8 aluminum sheet online and plan to just run passive cooling with a fan blowing over it. My question is, are m3 screws the only option to attach boards to the sheet? Having a tough time finding a tap for the m3 holes.

ronaldmosely · Sat Jan 27, 2018 11:38 pm

Contact HLG directly via email and they will get a heatsink out to you. All you have to provide is proof of purchase of QB's.

Sun Jan 28, 2018 12:19 am

ronaldmosely wrote: ↑
Sat Jan 27, 2018 10:29 pm
Are there any cons to doing series wiring on these boards? Just asking as parallel is a lot of wiring.

Do you have a 480H-C driver for series?

Sun Jan 28, 2018 12:22 am

Mcalidan wrote: ↑
Sat Jan 27, 2018 11:20 pm
Thanks for the info again. I'm glad the topic switched to heatsinks. HLG seems to always be sold out of the pre-drilled heatsinks. As an alternative I bought a 1/8 aluminum sheet online and plan to just run passive cooling with a fan blowing over it. My question is, are m3 screws the only option to attach boards to the sheet? Having a tough time finding a tap for the m3 holes.

They don't need to be M3. The hole will accommodate a slightly bigger screw. You could also just put the bolt right through your 1/8" sheet and put nuts on the backside.

ronaldmosely · Sun Jan 28, 2018 1:33 am

Currently don't have a driver of any kind yet actually trying to figure out which driver I should get. However, I am leaning more towards the 600 54A. all suggestions would be appreciated.

Mcalidan · Sun Jan 28, 2018 2:14 am

LEDG wrote: ↑
Sun Jan 28, 2018 12:22 am

Mcalidan wrote: ↑
Sat Jan 27, 2018 11:20 pm
Thanks for the info again. I'm glad the topic switched to heatsinks. HLG seems to always be sold out of the pre-drilled heatsinks. As an alternative I bought a 1/8 aluminum sheet online and plan to just run passive cooling with a fan blowing over it. My question is, are m3 screws the only option to attach boards to the sheet? Having a tough time finding a tap for the m3 holes.
They don't need to be M3. The hole will accommodate a slightly bigger screw. You could also just put the bolt right through your 1/8" sheet and put nuts on the backside.

Thanks LEDG,

I honestly never thought to use bolts and nuts like the ones that keep the driver secure. I think I'm going to go that route so I can save the time and not wait for shipping.

Mcalidan · Tue Jan 30, 2018 1:49 am

Well here she is all setup

: IMG_20180129_173130.jpg (3.75 MiB) Viewed 1174 times

: IMG_20180129_173141.jpg (4.26 MiB) Viewed 1174 times

: IMG_20180129_173225.jpg (3.67 MiB) Viewed 1174 times

: IMG_20180129_173231.jpg (3.5 MiB) Viewed 1174 times

Only hope she doesn't get too hot w/o heatsinks. I don't even have the potentiometer setup yet, and I assume it will get hotter once installed and running stronger. I have a fan blowing over the top seems to help quite a bit. I let it go about 30 minutes w/o fan and it got really warm.

Also, may have went overboard with the length of the screws, but they're attached. Appreciate all the help from the forum.

Tue Jan 30, 2018 3:59 am

Nice. I agree that you may need a fan on that sink - the HLG Slate 4 is 1/4" thick, I'm pretty sure. Another thing I'd suggest is finding a way to protect your 2 output wires that come through the 2 little holes in the metal. If they get nicked on the sharp metal edge and the copper makes contact with the metal, it'll electrify the whole board and that's a nasty amount of voltage on that 480HC-2100. You could use a rubber grommet of some sort or just go around the edge of the board rather than through it and protect that edge as well.

Tue Jan 30, 2018 6:57 am

ronaldmosely wrote: ↑
Sun Jan 28, 2018 1:33 am
Currently don't have a driver of any kind yet actually trying to figure out which driver I should get. However, I am leaning more towards the 600 54A. all suggestions would be appreciated.

if you get the constant voltage (54) driver you have to wire parallel... if you want to wire series and have the same power... get the hlg-600h-c2800 ( the 54v has 11.2 amp /4 that's 2800 each )

the 600's have two outputs.. ( think of it as 300w drivers) making it two sets of two boards in series. left two on one right two on other (driver + to board 1+... board 1 - to board 2+... board 2 - back to driver - the series image is further down on the link below.. same thing just 2 powers out)

if you want to try parallel with the 600 it's almost the same.. but instead of going from + to - to + it's go from driver + to a 3way wago.. with the other two holes in the wago run two + lines to the two left boards +'s.. . then driver - to a 3 way wago and two lines to the same two boards but hook -... use the other power +/- for the right two boards...

https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/p ... oard-guide
another way to parallel it is the first picture under the parallel section but instead of the red and red and black and black being on the same side... you got a +/- left side and a +/- right side...
only real difference is you going from board 1 to board 2.. instead of driver to board 1/2..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J6o-z8vJeN8 LG'S video on cv and parallel
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdLeA2BFT0A LG'S video on cc and series
both have great info if you haven't seen them yet

edit: with the slate 6's ( the +/- vertical instead of horizontal +/- like the rest of them) the first way with the wagos would probably be neater/cleaner looking