Hello everyone, I would like to build a dimmable board for chilli peppers, I saw the post on how to design a 2 x 2 board. 1x1 would be enough for me.
So just 6 strips. I do not understand what driver to use,the kind of potetntiometer for dimming, I do not understand much of these things, unfortunately. I have always used the cfl but do not make it. If you could please tell me what I have to buy for this project. Then I will follow the instructions for the 2 x 2 board. Thanks in advance guys!
EDIT 1:
Ok..maybe i understood something..a single strip is 19,5 volt @ 350ma..so i need a 2100 ma driver? and the output of the driver have to be only 19,5 v or 20..25..am i wrong?
EDIT 2:
The next step of insecurity..do i need a resistance for every strip? 1,5 ohm is good? Or it's ok without them?
And wich kind of potentiometer i need?
Need help for Bridgelux Gen. 2 BXEB-L0560Z 1′ LED Strip Build – 1’x1′
- Jolly Green Giant
- LED Wizard
- Reactions:
- Posts: 835
- Joined: Thu Jun 15, 2017 1:35 am
- Location: somewhere in NY
welcome to the forum
for your little second part.. yes and technically yes
yes the 1 ft strips are 19.5v at a test current of 350ma (they max out at 700ma) running them at %75 power is roughly 500ma ( LG'S referral % to run them and out can dim down if need)
yes your correct that you will need 2100ma for the 6 strips ( test 350ma) with a 20v output.. the problem is the divers that end in the ma ( hlg480h-c2100b example) the voltage needed is way higher.. it's ment to wire in series to add the voltage but give a constant 2100ma.. but if your in the voltage range you can wire parallel (something like the quantum board 304.. this strips are too small) and split the ma.
here's a list I would use for that space...
https://www.digikey.com/products/en/opt ... ageSize=25
6 strips which ever CCT you want ( I'm guessing 4000k a good middle color for peppers) 5000k are the only in stock
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?key ... lg-60h-20b
one of those drivers wired in parallel will give each strip 500ma ( LG'S 75%)
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/3780677
I believe that is the potentiometer I use... all I remember is linear taper and 100k ohms.
heatsinks can be 1inch heat sinks like this http://www.heatsinkusa.com/1-000-wide-e ... -heatsink/
or "U" "C" ( what ever you call it) channel aluminum. at lease 1" across the bottom.. there's also 1" square aluminum tube or just a 1/4" sheet 1'x1'
frame work = 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 angle aluminum. or 1" square aluminum ( if you go with that for heatsink I would use same for frame) if you go just a sheet heat sink you don't need a framework.. just drill holes in the corners and hang it.
wire/ connectors/driver power cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IN838 ... th=1&psc=1 is what I use.. you want 18awg from wago connectors to strips.. LG recommends 14awg between wago connectors ( both are in the options color what ever makes it easier for you I just used one color and paid attention)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s ... connectors. for wagos you'll need a minimum of 2 3port connectors and 4 4port connectors. (there's assorted kits everywhere on Amazon)
last 2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5I73QI/re ... il_2?psc=1
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LDYHN ... ref=plSrch
your a.c. power cord and connector for the driver
sorry for the long post.. if confused in anyway ask!!! I tend to confuse people on here when I go into story mode
for your little second part.. yes and technically yes
yes the 1 ft strips are 19.5v at a test current of 350ma (they max out at 700ma) running them at %75 power is roughly 500ma ( LG'S referral % to run them and out can dim down if need)
yes your correct that you will need 2100ma for the 6 strips ( test 350ma) with a 20v output.. the problem is the divers that end in the ma ( hlg480h-c2100b example) the voltage needed is way higher.. it's ment to wire in series to add the voltage but give a constant 2100ma.. but if your in the voltage range you can wire parallel (something like the quantum board 304.. this strips are too small) and split the ma.
here's a list I would use for that space...
https://www.digikey.com/products/en/opt ... ageSize=25
6 strips which ever CCT you want ( I'm guessing 4000k a good middle color for peppers) 5000k are the only in stock
https://www.digikey.com/products/en?key ... lg-60h-20b
one of those drivers wired in parallel will give each strip 500ma ( LG'S 75%)
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/3780677
I believe that is the potentiometer I use... all I remember is linear taper and 100k ohms.
heatsinks can be 1inch heat sinks like this http://www.heatsinkusa.com/1-000-wide-e ... -heatsink/
or "U" "C" ( what ever you call it) channel aluminum. at lease 1" across the bottom.. there's also 1" square aluminum tube or just a 1/4" sheet 1'x1'
frame work = 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 angle aluminum. or 1" square aluminum ( if you go with that for heatsink I would use same for frame) if you go just a sheet heat sink you don't need a framework.. just drill holes in the corners and hang it.
wire/ connectors/driver power cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IN838 ... th=1&psc=1 is what I use.. you want 18awg from wago connectors to strips.. LG recommends 14awg between wago connectors ( both are in the options color what ever makes it easier for you I just used one color and paid attention)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s ... connectors. for wagos you'll need a minimum of 2 3port connectors and 4 4port connectors. (there's assorted kits everywhere on Amazon)
last 2. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5I73QI/re ... il_2?psc=1
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LDYHN ... ref=plSrch
your a.c. power cord and connector for the driver
sorry for the long post.. if confused in anyway ask!!! I tend to confuse people on here when I go into story mode
Wow! Many many thanks..a lot of words means a lot to learn..and an occasion to review my english..meanwhile i'm studying electronics..i've got a tremendous headache I'm better with risotto or pasta with clams..ahah.
Ok..i think i understood the driver situation..a dimmable 2100ma driver has an output voltage too high..
I'm searching on digikey but they don't have the dimmable options in the menu..or maybe i can't see it, ' cause my brain is filled with ohm etc etc..maybe i need a buddhist oooooooooommmmmm instead.
After this bad joke..the situation is that i have to find a 2100ma driver with a maximum output voltage of 20 V? 24 V is too much? i don't understand this point...the output Voltage and the input voltage (may 90 to 300 VAC)of the driver.. i think here the voltage from the wall is 230. (I live 15 kilometers from where Alessandro Volta was born)
Then @500 ma i can dim it a little to have more leds efficiency if i got it right...
Or maybe i can buy 2 1050ma non dimmable economic drivers..with an output of 20 v (22? 24? the same problem)
3 strips in the veg and 3 strips in the flowering..in parallel.
This is a good idea? (if the 2 drivers are not to expensive)
Thanks again for helping people lost in the wolrd of volts and ampere.
Ok..i think i understood the driver situation..a dimmable 2100ma driver has an output voltage too high..
I'm searching on digikey but they don't have the dimmable options in the menu..or maybe i can't see it, ' cause my brain is filled with ohm etc etc..maybe i need a buddhist oooooooooommmmmm instead.
After this bad joke..the situation is that i have to find a 2100ma driver with a maximum output voltage of 20 V? 24 V is too much? i don't understand this point...the output Voltage and the input voltage (may 90 to 300 VAC)of the driver.. i think here the voltage from the wall is 230. (I live 15 kilometers from where Alessandro Volta was born)
Then @500 ma i can dim it a little to have more leds efficiency if i got it right...
Or maybe i can buy 2 1050ma non dimmable economic drivers..with an output of 20 v (22? 24? the same problem)
3 strips in the veg and 3 strips in the flowering..in parallel.
This is a good idea? (if the 2 drivers are not to expensive)
Thanks again for helping people lost in the wolrd of volts and ampere.
- Jolly Green Giant
- LED Wizard
- Reactions:
- Posts: 835
- Joined: Thu Jun 15, 2017 1:35 am
- Location: somewhere in NY
I love to cook also.. not professionally trained but I watched my grandmother and mother for 30 + years both are baking machines!!
ok for the dimming options... the driver will end with a "A" or "B" (there's other options but these are the two most common)
"A" type have internal dimming knobs that you adjust with a small Phillips head screw driver's there is 2.. one for voltage and one for current.
"B" type have wave ire lead that you can wire a linear taper potentiometer too.. they also can hook up to a PWM( pulse width modulation) type controller https://www.rapidled.com/coralux-storm- ... ontroller/ as a example....
yes with that hlg-60h-20b you can dim down to make them more efficient.. you just don't really want to go over that 500ma per strip( which is max the driver can do)
for the input output voltage... 90-305v input means it will work pretty much anywhere in the world. there are some series of drivers that have different ranges for different parts of the world.. the hlg series is the most universal.
output voltage can be a small range or a big range.. depending on if it's a constant voltage or constant current.. basically you want to be as close to the max of the range as you can be.( closer to v max = the more efficient the driver runs)
dual 1050's in parallel would work! I found a non dimmable one with a voltage range that would work... if your set on running soft use two of these https://power.sager.com/apc-35-1050-2719403.html you just Ned two power connectors and power cables. ( I totally linked a NA cable last time I'm sure you know what plug you need)
anytime
ok for the dimming options... the driver will end with a "A" or "B" (there's other options but these are the two most common)
"A" type have internal dimming knobs that you adjust with a small Phillips head screw driver's there is 2.. one for voltage and one for current.
"B" type have wave ire lead that you can wire a linear taper potentiometer too.. they also can hook up to a PWM( pulse width modulation) type controller https://www.rapidled.com/coralux-storm- ... ontroller/ as a example....
yes with that hlg-60h-20b you can dim down to make them more efficient.. you just don't really want to go over that 500ma per strip( which is max the driver can do)
for the input output voltage... 90-305v input means it will work pretty much anywhere in the world. there are some series of drivers that have different ranges for different parts of the world.. the hlg series is the most universal.
output voltage can be a small range or a big range.. depending on if it's a constant voltage or constant current.. basically you want to be as close to the max of the range as you can be.( closer to v max = the more efficient the driver runs)
dual 1050's in parallel would work! I found a non dimmable one with a voltage range that would work... if your set on running soft use two of these https://power.sager.com/apc-35-1050-2719403.html you just Ned two power connectors and power cables. ( I totally linked a NA cable last time I'm sure you know what plug you need)
anytime
- Jolly Green Giant
- LED Wizard
- Reactions:
- Posts: 835
- Joined: Thu Jun 15, 2017 1:35 am
- Location: somewhere in NY
yea iinked the 35w ones.. but 25's should also workviolenzo wrote: ↑Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:20 pm2 drivers like these?
https://www.tme.eu/it/details/apc-25-10 ... mean-well/
Thanks again..now i'm starting to understand something.
I've got one last question, cause i found the data sheet of the strip..i believe in bridgelux:
TYPICAL @50 Celsius
@2100 ma = 350ma x6 = 46 w / 22.1 V
@3000 ma = 500ma x6 = 67,8 W / 22.7 V
So from what i understood i have to stay in this range (from 2100 to 3000) with the driver..
As you see here the voltage is 22 and something..i'm deducing that i need a driver with maximum 24 V output.
And now the final exam..if i had understood quite right..i can make the thing work with this driver:
https://www.mouser.it/ProductDetail/MEA ... N7sA%3d%3d
@2400ma = 6 x 400ma = 2400 x 22.5 (mas o menos)= 54 W
Correct?
if I should pass the exam, I'll know I'm ready. Thanks for the patience meanwhile. Have a good day/night..
I've got one last question, cause i found the data sheet of the strip..i believe in bridgelux:
TYPICAL @50 Celsius
@2100 ma = 350ma x6 = 46 w / 22.1 V
@3000 ma = 500ma x6 = 67,8 W / 22.7 V
So from what i understood i have to stay in this range (from 2100 to 3000) with the driver..
As you see here the voltage is 22 and something..i'm deducing that i need a driver with maximum 24 V output.
And now the final exam..if i had understood quite right..i can make the thing work with this driver:
https://www.mouser.it/ProductDetail/MEA ... N7sA%3d%3d
@2400ma = 6 x 400ma = 2400 x 22.5 (mas o menos)= 54 W
Correct?
if I should pass the exam, I'll know I'm ready. Thanks for the patience meanwhile. Have a good day/night..
Very nice concept; I am looking to do something similar however in Canada they don't appear to have any 2nd Gen 1 footers in stock anywhere. Most likely I will use the 2 footers and if they don't fit inside my 2x2x4 tent I will have to reconsider my space.
Just for fun..peppers..here in italy grow weed is illegal..but you can buy it from mafia "gentlemans" or criminals..i hate my country..sh***y people. Can you buy from arrow? or digikey.com?
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bxeb- ... /bridgelux
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/6236279
this is the 3500k..for weed just ad some blu 470 nm (veg) and then some deepred 660..and a 3 watt good led of far red..i've seen good results in switzerland..
BXEB-L0280Z-35E1000-C-A3 google the manifacturer part number..i found what i was searching googleling part numbers.
i hope you'll get to the point..yeah..
- Jolly Green Giant
- LED Wizard
- Reactions:
- Posts: 835
- Joined: Thu Jun 15, 2017 1:35 am
- Location: somewhere in NY
again your math is spot on.... but I think your looking at gen 1 strip data sheets ( the 22.1v and 50C giving it away..... gen two 19.5v and 25C...I looked at the same data sheet a few times before figuring which was which)violenzo wrote: ↑Tue Feb 20, 2018 9:46 amThanks again..now i'm starting to understand something.
I've got one last question, cause i found the data sheet of the strip..i believe in bridgelux:
TYPICAL @50 Celsius
@2100 ma = 350ma x6 = 46 w / 22.1 V
@3000 ma = 500ma x6 = 67,8 W / 22.7 V
So from what i understood i have to stay in this range (from 2100 to 3000) with the driver..
As you see here the voltage is 22 and something..i'm deducing that i need a driver with maximum 24 V output.
And now the final exam..if i had understood quite right..i can make the thing work with this driver:
https://www.mouser.it/ProductDetail/MEA ... N7sA%3d%3d
@2400ma = 6 x 400ma = 2400 x 22.5 (mas o menos)= 54 W
Correct?
if I should pass the exam, I'll know I'm ready. Thanks for the patience meanwhile. Have a good day/night..
https://www.bridgelux.com/sites/default ... ev%20A.pdf
should lead to gen two4's data sheet.