probably okay if you have a decent heat sink. because they get fairly warm.
when i tested both rows at nominal current it reached 41°C (ignore temp. on picture)
(with 10mm heat transfer tape and aluminum curtain rail):
IMG_20180406_140959.jpg
anyway
it should work with the driver you mentioned. even if it's 25.4V. and even if it doesn't you could always dim down the output amperage of the driver with a (variable) resistor. right?
unfortunately i cannot test the vestas voltage at 1.4A because my driver only reaches 25V max.
I was thinking about getting 3 of these. If my understanding is right. For the 280mm strips it is about 25v @ 500mA each side. So if I wired each side together, that would make it 50v at 1A?
*edit*
Are you running those vesta on that trp driver? I was thinking about getting the trp LED75W-025-C3000-D and running these 3 strips with it. That would put each half strip at 500mA and just under 25v. Do you think it will run 3?
Does anyone have any updates on these? How hot do they run on different temperatures, and with different heat sinks?
I saw some other conversations talking about a r9 color frequency, how no 80cri leds had it, and they were suggesting it was the reason they were getting far better results with 90cri leds. Does anyone know anything about this? I looked in the Vesta charts, and didn't see anything.
How about this combined spectrum for flowering? would it be better to tone done the light?
Tazztone, did you get to use these with the TRP drivers? They still have the 75w model, the other jumped to over 30$.
I just got the supplies for my first build. I will be doing that one soon. I am also getting married this Friday. Maybe in a couple weeks I'll purchase 6 strips, and 2 drivers to see the results. The only difference in my research of 80 cri vs 90 cri is the lm/watt and 90 cri has more of a shift towards the red spectrum.
I plan on running each spectrum separately on each driver. That way I can veg with up to 75 watts of 5000k. Then slowly change the spectrum over to 2700k. Once full on flower hits I'll run both at about 75 watts, which should equal about 3850k. At 90 cri it has more red light for the flowering though.
Eventually though I'll use these strips with a raspberry pi and make a daylight simulator so I don't have to do it manually. On paper it sounds like a beast lol.
Tazztone, did you get to use these with the TRP drivers?
as long as you use any aluminum profile and thermal tape as i did (see pic in prevous page) it's going to be okay (43°C) at 2A, 25V (50W) per 560mm strip.
i doubt that R9 value has anything to do with plant growth. (Vesta datasheet says R9 value is at least 50). that's just a measure of how accurately the light reproduces a certain color.
this graph shows the differences in LM561C 3000K 80CRI and Vesta 90CRI 3850K
u just have to look at the YPF (photons relevant to plants). so at the same wattage consumption the F-series emits 115 umol/s and the vesta 94
this means vestas are 18% less efficient for growing. (for human light perception: lumen/W, it's 26% less efficiency)
So If I were to make a 2x4 foot light with a single 240w meanwell, is there a way to use arduino or some controller to fade the 5000k light out at sunset? or am I forced to use separate drivers for both channels? Now I'm divided between a ELG-240 and 4 x 75 TRP drivers... I cant find any bangforyourbuck options for 120w drivers in the EU, and lazy to wait for china mail for this build...
I read a few threads on 80vs90 cri, and one thing i noted was that those running separate spaces were reporting their plants would finish much faster, while those running 80vs90 cri in a single tent were reporting less of the phenomena... I was wondering if the light was causing something like the 730nm sleep reaction. They were using Cobs, without the 5000k light. This left me thinking I would like to try to fade out the 5000k light 30min before sleep to test if it really cuts flowering times that drastically. Surely I will have to test this, since the idea has rooted in my mind.
If your right, and theres nothing going on, then I might as well just use a single 240w driver, and control my spectrum by changing which strips are connected to the driver... I.E. connecting all the 2700k and half the 5000k would give a warmer spectrum around 3300k, and the opposite wiring would give a temperature around 4200k...
Oh, and tazztone, I have no idea about the r9, but someone was dominating some conversation on the matter with this claim. He was adamant that not a single cri80 cob had this frequency, and how this should be the reason 90cri cobs were beating 80cri cobs despite having lower lm and par.
But what is r9? does it correspond to a nm frequency or is it something else?
So If I were to make a 2x4 foot light with a single 240w meanwell, is there a way to use arduino or some controller to fade the 5000k light out at sunset? or am I forced to use separate drivers for both channels? Now I'm divided between a ELG-240 and 4 x 75 TRP drivers... I cant find any bangforyourbuck options for 120w drivers in the EU, and lazy to wait for china mail for this build...
I read a few threads on 80vs90 cri, and one thing i noted was that those running separate spaces were reporting their plants would finish much faster, while those running 80vs90 cri in a single tent were reporting less of the phenomena... I was wondering if the light was causing something like the 730nm sleep reaction. They were using Cobs, without the 5000k light. This left me thinking I would like to try to fade out the 5000k light 30min before sleep to test if it really cuts flowering times that drastically. Surely I will have to test this, since the idea has rooted in my mind.
If your right, and theres nothing going on, then I might as well just use a single 240w driver, and control my spectrum by changing which strips are connected to the driver... I.E. connecting all the 2700k and half the 5000k would give a warmer spectrum around 3300k, and the opposite wiring would give a temperature around 4200k...
I would have to do a lot more research with what light spectrum the sun puts out dusk till dawn. As I understand it puts out both red and blue all the time, just more blues spring to early summer, and more reds late summer through fall. If each channel was on a different channel, you could not only simulate the day light, but the changing of seasons! = O
I understood that the 730nm sunset and 660nm sunrise, and especially the sunset, were observed and caused great effect. I don't know if the effect is really mirroring nature, or doing something totally different.
The explanation given for the sunset was that a certain amount of 730nm light in ratio to other frequencies allowed the plant to sleep 2h faster then normally. This extra time allows the grower to choose between adding 2h to the day or the night. If the grower kept 12/12 their plants were finishing 5+days early. The fast finish was explained as a consequence of the plant having more time to process sugars which is supposedly done at night.
So many users were reporting faster finishing times with 90cri (all done with low colour temperatures) that I was thinking the simplest explanation would be that they are tapping on the same benefits as the 730nm sleep initiators.
I remember reading that the sleep hormone would come as a ratio to other frequencies, which would make sense in nature. Most people playing around with sleep initiation have not dived into the ratios, but simply run 730nm leds for a moment after lights out.
