Total Newbie Strip Light build

[HalfBee]

Just my 2 cents worth...

Similar size box (actually a bit smaller than gorilla tent) and am
running 8 EB strips with 4 at 700mA and 4 gen2 at 1.05mA.
Your numbers are right in the ballpark.

Running 700mA heat is not an issue and fixtures easy to build.

[H0m3B0Y]

Seriously if you plan on running the gen 2 strips. The 20v driver is the correct one. You are looking at the cc range of that driver. Look at this spreadsheet ledg made for the CV drivers.
http://ledgardener.com/driver-reference-sheet/

Follow That link and click on the constant voltage link.

Constant current doesn't apply unless you try to run strips out of the cv range.

The 185h-20 has a voltage range of 17-22v.

The 185h-24 has a voltage range of 22-27v

The strip build tool was made for the gen 1s

You really got me worried on this one so I went to re-check driver datasheet: There are many version of HLG-185H-24 driver, the one listed in your link seems to be HLG-185H-24A (the one with built-in dimmer), which indeed has voltage range of 22-27V.
I was looking at HLG-185H-24B (the one that needs external dimmer, such as potentiometer), which has voltage range of 12-24V.

But that's the "CONSTANT CURRENT REGION" row on datasheet. There is another row called "VOLTAGE ADJ. RANGE" with a note saying "Adjustable for A/AB-Type only (via built-in potentiometer)", that lists voltage range 22-27V.
Which is weird, because type "B" is also adjustable, jsut not via integrated dial.

So now I'm really puzzled... the link you provided has 22-27V, if I use Parallel Strip tool (Bridgelux 2ft, 10 strips, 50%) I get HLG-185H-24 as an appropriate driver.

Now I'm really not confident in my own calculations and conclusions, since LED strips and drivers are very new to me, so if someone could comment on driver selection I'd be very happy.

The 24v driver will work because each strip will try to pull 19.5v, which is out of the 22-27v range. It will then kick into constant current mode(which runs 12-24v,) which is not ideal for these drivers. The better option would be the 20v driver that has the correct range for constant voltage at 17-22v.

Can you please explain a bit more regarding this one? I understand driver should work, but since you mention non-ideal conditions, does that mean that driver and/or LEDs could be damaged or have reduced life? Or will there be more variability in light output since?

I checked datasheet for 240 and 320 as well, but they all seem to have similar characteristics (same voltage, just more current).

In other words: What is the correct driver for ten (10) BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3 strips driven at 700mA? I don't mind buying a bit oversized driver if it means better match.

[sdfoster22]

The strip build tool was made for the eb gen 1 series which was 24v. Here is an eb gen1.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/ ... ND/6236284

Notice the A3 at the end? That means gen 1.

Gen 1 is
Bxeb-L0560Z-35E2000-C-A3

Gen 2 is
Bxeb-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3

These drivers are constant voltage and constant current. The voltage adj range is for constant voltage mode. If you drop below the minimum of that range, the driver kicks into constant current mode. It then outputs it's full amps in the voltage range of the constant current region. Parallel wiring and constant current is never recommended.

If you want to go constant voltage and parallel wiring, the a version of the driver is recommended. The a version of the driver has 2 internal potentiometers. One where you can limit the voltage which prevents thermal runaway. The b version just adjusts the current, and the voltage is drawn automatically. I would recommend the hlg-150h-20a. It outputs 10.79a max. You could dial down the voltage on the 10 strips to 100w (500ma each) or max the driver out for about 180-200w (1a each). You could also oversize. The driver to something bigger. You could use the b version, but it has a little better chance of thermal runaway, because you can't limit voltage.

[sdfoster22]

If you want an external potentiometer, I would recommend constant current and series wiring. You could go with the hlg-120h-c700b if you wanted to leave room for expansion, buy 2 drivers and wire 5 strips per driver. I wouldn't go above the 120h-c700b because with 10 strips you'll be pulling 195v. You'll need a 50kohm potentiometer if you want to dim 2 drivers. If 195v is too much for you to want to work with. You could do hlg-80h-c700b per 5 strips. That would be close to 100v, and have room for 1 more strip per driver.

[H0m3B0Y]

If you want an external potentiometer, I would recommend constant current and series wiring. You could go with the hlg-120h-c700b if you wanted to leave room for expansion, buy 2 drivers and wire 5 strips per driver. I wouldn't go above the 120h-c700b because with 10 strips you'll be pulling 195v. You'll need a 50kohm potentiometer if you want to dim 2 drivers. If 195v is too much for you to want to work with. You could do hlg-80h-c700b per 5 strips. That would be close to 100v, and have room for 1 more strip per driver.

Thanks for the input, I was just checking the serial wiring option. I first chose parallel because thats what LEDG chose for the example strip build for 2x4 with EB strips.

External potentiometer is not a must, it just looks cleaner to me (no screwdriver needed to adjust lights). But since I'll change brightness once per grow, having built-in dial is not an issue.

195V (up to 206V actually) does sound a bit scary, but I don't plan on having any exposed wires nor will I work with wiring when system is live, so I don't think I mind working with this voltage* (I do know it hurts because I was young and stupid ).
More than me being shocked I'm worried about heat, fire safety, etc.

From what I read so far I understand it is far more important to control the current supplied to LEDs than to control the voltage and hope the current drawn will remain as expected. I also understand that dimming with external potentiometer (at least for CV drivers) is more of a workaround than a final solution.

Both options (CV and CC) cost the same... so lets rephrase my question with the acquired knowledge so far:
- Light will be made of 10 BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3 strips (19.5V typical, 20.6V max, @ 700mA)
- Same light will be used for both veg (@ 350mA) and flower (@ 700mA)
- No oversizing for future is necessary, consider this a one time build that will not by modified.

Is it better to wire parallel with HLG-185H-20 or HLG-185H-24
or go for serial wiring with ??? driver?
What are the questions I should be asking myself to determine if I want to go serial or parallel?

Also, do people use fuses in DIY strip lights to protect strips and/or the driver?

*again, I'm quite new to DIYing LEDs, my previous experience with electronics is mainly on ICs and simple circuits with some 230V installation work, so if my plan sounds like "hold my beer and watch this", please, do let me know.

EDIT: Did some more reading and got myself confused even more
Apparently, constant voltage drivers from Meanwell are not exactly constant voltage all the way, but will work in constant current mode as well (I'm guessing max current more unless type "A" is used and current is set via dial). Datasheet lists constant current range with a nice picture in "Driving methods of LED module" section, which to me (and my very poor knowledge) indicates that while current drawn is low (less than 100%), driver will do it's best to keep voltage constant. Once current gets up to 100% of declared (?set in type "A"?) current, driver will go into constant current mode and vary voltage to keep current constant?
Am I correct to conclude that if I choose HLG-185H-24 driver and connect 10 strips that should draw 7A from the driver at ~20V, that driver will be in constant current mode?
Would I have to set dial on type "A" driver to 7A (~90% of declared max; for 10 strips at 700mA each) for "correct" operation? Then dial it down to minimum (3.9A; 390mA per strip) for veg? Will driver still be in constant current mode if dial is set to 3.9A with ~20V strips connected?

[sdfoster22]

If it's a one time build. I think the best option would be the hlg-180-20a. You will only get down to 500ma min.

When You regulate voltage you are ensuring that the current will stay the same weather you have 1 strip or 10 strips wired. If You set the voltage at 19.5v it will constantly supply each strip with that voltage amd each strip will only draw the current it needs at said voltage. Essentially you are controlling the current by limiting the voltage to each strip.

With the b version, you set how much current the driver will output. With the hlg-185h-20 that is 9.3a at max. If you adjust the current down with the external pot to 7a. It will split the current between all 10 strips and run them at 700mA. If one strip goes out you will be pushing 7a to 9 strips and the voltage will go up running each strip hotter, if 2 or 3 strips go out it will keep running the remaking strips with all 7a, dividing that current between them. This doesn't happen often, but it CAN happen.

Do not use the 24v driver. Use the 20v driver. That is the driver that matches those strips. If you kick the 24v constant voltage driver into constant current mode it will supply all its amps decided by the strips. If one fails they still get all the amps. The 20v driver is the correct one.

If you want the ability to dim down to 350ma go with the constant current b versions on the driver, and run as many volts as you feel comfortable with. Or you can use the hlg-185h-20b. You could wire in a 700mA or 1A dc inline fuse to prevent thermal runaway. I would highly recommend the inline fuses to reduce the risk of a fire hazard. Just make sure they are rated for enough volts to handle the build.

[sdfoster22]

Once the driver kicks into CC mode you have no control over voltage. Just the current.

[sdfoster22]

Forget using the hlg-185-24. If You want to use constant current, get a constant current driver (hlg-xxx-c700.) It is much safer that way

The spreadsheet I linked to pertains to all of the versions of the drivers. The hlg-185-20a, hlg-185-20b, and the hlg-185-20. The 20a has two internal pots. One to limit voltage, and one for current. The b needs an external pot. If the a and b versions can go above the max rating of the regular driver, this is the numbers in Orange. The a driver can dim down to 50% and up to over the 100% of rating. So the hlg-185-20a can go from 4.65a to 10.79a. The b version can go from zero, or almost zero amps to 10.79a. To get the max 10.79a you need an external pot that is 110k ohms, or a 100kohm pot with a 10kohm resistor.

The hlg-185h-20 (not a or b) will output max of 9.3a and pull whatever voltage is needed between the 17-22v.

The hlg-185h-20b will provide max current until you dim it down. Once you start limiting the current the strips will pull whatever voltage it needs at that current between 17-22v.

The hlg-185h-20a you can limit voltage and set the current, but it only dims down to 50% of the max rating.

[H0m3B0Y]

A lot of useful stuff

Really appreciate your input man, I learned a lot with your help.

The more I read various posts on LEDG, the more often I see statements like "CC drivers are simple because there are no adjustments required. Just make sure your circuit voltage is within your driver’s constant current range." and "LEDs have unique I-V curves that are always moving around due to temperature, and for this reason, it’s impossible to know exactly how much current will flow if you provide a constant voltage." and "When working with LEDs, it’s best to focus solely on getting the proper current to each LED.".
Also some other sites emphasize that modules (strips) can vary quite a bit resistance wise, and since their I-V curves are somewhat bordering on alchemy and black magic (no equation to calculate exact numbers), I could have significant differences in current on different modules (at that is without one or more of the strips dying while I'm at work; so remaining strips would then be fed with the full current)

This tells me that CC way would be the best one for a newb like me, since CV has so many potential problems that CC doesn't.
The only "downside" of CC way is the high voltage in the system, everything else is a big plus (constant current for all strips; if a strip dies the circuit is cut and electricity stops; etc.).

I'll repost the question I'd really like an answer to:
What are the questions I should be asking myself to determine if I want to go serial (constant current) or parallel (constant voltage)?

[sdfoster22]

The only really difference of constant current series, and constant voltage parallel is the high voltage of the constant current builds. The safest option from what I have read would be the a version of the 185, with parallel wiring. Once you limit voltage, the voltage cannot go above the set limit, and each strip will only pull the current at that voltage. Each strip can vary a little for the current it pulls, but not that drastic. The strips cannot pull more current no matter how many strip you wire up because you are limiting voltage.