Can LM301B be driven at 0.4watts?

[Indiled]

I have a question about wattage rating per LM301B.
Can I power LM301B at 0.4watts each?
I want to power 8 strips that have 80 LM301B per strip at 0.4watts per diode or 0.4(80) per 32watts per strip.
I was going to do this by using a hlg 240H-1400B which has a 89-179dc voltage output range .
8 strips in a series,each strip is 8S10P or 21.7volts each if driven at 2.7volts,and 8(21.7) is 172.8volts
and the driver has a range of 89-179 and current is 1.4amps.
If I use the 240H-1400B then the total wattage should be approximately 242 or 0.4watts per diode.
Can I power each LM301B at 0.4watts?
I’m trying to get 225-250 watts out of 8 strips with 80 LM301B diodes per strip.
Anyone know if I will end up cooking diodes?

[crazyphil]

Hey!! to run 0.4w, you will have to run (extrapolated from the samsung curve) 2.86x0.14A, that said , it will be in fine
2.86*8*8= 183V - 1.4 A. I have no idea if it will smoke or not, it's "just" 0.140/0.065=2.2 times the nominal of the led.

[unkle_psycho]

I am not sure if this is the best way to approach the matter... finally the leds lifespan is calculated from heat. If you go below the certified max temp lifespan starts increasing quick, if you go above it the lifespan should reduce fast.

Some people use water cooling or active fanning, it should drop temperatures fast. Size of heatsink obviously matters, but all this can cost money or electricity, so in some sense you might pay a lot for nice heatsinks or loose electrical efficiency to adding fans, just so you can save money on strips.

My general idea came from testing one type of strip with a million different power levels... The strips are bridgelux vestas so a 2 foot strip can take about 50w of power. Even at 35w with a 55mm wide sink that had 2 30mm fins they were scorching hot. At 25w (nominal) they were pretty warm, almost hot, and going below that suddenly things ease out. I use about 17w for side lighting to the 2 foot strip, it has a tiny rail less wide then the strip but it runs cool.

Point being the heat starts adding on fast as the power increases. This is probably a little different in HLG and the inFlux series since they have better thermals in the PCB

[Indiled]

Thanks,
I might stay with cobs for a while because very soon there will be UV,660,730,IR added to modules and already it’s happening.
I’ve been looking for the two rows of LM301B on aluminum backed board in 3000-4000k but don’t know the catalogue numbers.
Is there anything on Samsung about them,are they called sunboards?

[crazyphil]

Hello,

I’ve been looking for the two rows of LM301B on aluminum backed board in 3000-4000k

here is the samsung serie including the LT-F564B (2 ft 2 rows))
https://cdn.samsung.com/led/file/resour ... ev.1.0.pdf

[Hydrofood]

These are not aluminum backed strips.

Hello,

I’ve been looking for the two rows of LM301B on aluminum backed board in 3000-4000k

here is the samsung serie including the LT-F564B (2 ft 2 rows))
https://cdn.samsung.com/led/file/resour ... ev.1.0.pdf

[unkle_psycho]

Thanks,
I might stay with cobs for a while because very soon there will be UV,660,730,IR added to modules and already it’s happening.
I’ve been looking for the two rows of LM301B on aluminum backed board in 3000-4000k but don’t know the catalogue numbers.
Is there anything on Samsung about them,are they called sunboards?

Maybe you mean solstrips? I think a user at RIU had them made and sells them through cutter. I woulud compare them to samsungs H inFlux series, which is supposed to have improved thermal performance, price and quality would probably also be better, I think the solstrips are just ordered from some alibaba producer.

[Indiled]

Thanks for posts.
I’ve looked and unless your completely caught up on what’s what finding what you want can get tedious and frustrating.

[unkle_psycho]

Thanks for posts.
I’ve looked and unless your completely caught up on what’s what finding what you want can get tedious and frustrating.

Yeah I think many people experience the frustration. The way I and some others approached the issue was mapping out the possibly interesting models from a few different perspectives... lm/w LM/$ w/strip and looking at those numbers until you feel comfortable choosing a compromise or choosing the path you want to optimize.

It's not a coincidence that everyone just goes for the meanwell HLG series and the lm301b diode... they do it to avoid the thinking, just choose the most efficient diodes. Really though efficiency is at a system level.

Personally the first time i needed to think about the way my strips are internally wired, was when I wanted to combine 1 and 2 foot strips.

Right now I'm working on a light for a 2x4 and I just know there will be 2 10cm wide extrusions housing the leds... each extrusion will have about 120w for a total of 240. Knowing that I can look at different combinations of strips I can use. Do I want a single strip of dual line f-series? Do I want two strips of EB gen2 at 1425mA or 3 strips at 950mA etc. Once on paper the choices start narrowing down automatically.

[Indiled]

I’m wanting to build a panel to cover a 2 by 4 as uniform as possible at about 260-300watts.
I’d like to use shorter strips so I can add some photo reds in between each strip.
Basically 00000R00000R0000000R0000000 where 0 is white light and R is photo red where each strip is about 80watts.
Then run 4 of these across a 2 by 4.
Mixing in photo reds works and I’ve seen differences.
It’s a rough draft but that’s what I’m wanting to build.
I’d really like to add UV,IR,photo and far red but I need to get the white led strips or at least know which ones will work.
I’d rather use single rows but double is fine but then I start seeing the 288 coming out with these supplements mixed in and at a reasonable price and price wise it might be better to use 288.
Those suppliers at alibaba have some interesting boards but I don’t know how trustworthy they are.
I bought cobs from a supplier and they were authentic but no boards yet.