@Greenmadness set me some of the Samsung strips to test. I prefer the bridgelux gen3 strips over these, they are not rated to be driven very hard
It was really cold in my test room when I did these only 10°C
I did heat the strips up alot before testing so it shouldn't effect the results much.
At nominal current they came in a 187 lumens per watt which is exactly what the data sheet claimed.
There is a bit of noise in the UVA and 800nm range, I usually clean this up but with cant be bothered today. There is no UVA or 800nm in the actual spectrum.
Thanks for taking the time to make and share this test info.
I was just itemizing the Data Sheet info for the Bridgelux EB Gen2, Gen3 Series and Vesta for my next parts order later this week. Added the Samsung Q562A as a reference then noticed the Spectral Wavelength Distribution for their 3000K in you posted Test Report. IMO, the 3000K appears to have a "High" percentage of Blue and Green with lower Far Red, it may be more suited for "Vegetative Growth" .
What is you take on the Spectral Distribution of the LT-Q562A 3000K? Thanks.
Samsumg LT-Q562A, 560mm @ 665mA
UVA 0%
B 15.1%
G 44.4%
R 37.7%
FR 2.5%
My Itemized List, a simple text document...
LED Strip Comparison for Quantity and Cost by Grow Area Size and Plant Growth Stage
I've seen positive and negative effects regarding far red over the years. Generally far red is good but it is strain dependant. There isnt a one spectrum suits all, there cant be because strains all act differently. I would personally reduce the green and add a bit more far red to that Samsung spectrum. The blue and red are about right.
You also need to understand when I do a test on something like a Samsung strip it doesnt mean the spectrum will be the same for all of them even the same kelvin and CRI can have a very different spectrum.
Tight binning control is whats needed and its difficult to always get the same bins. Binning is not just for output, its also for Kevin, color forward voltage ect.
What you can do is make a solution that works for you by using suppliment lights and doing your own tests on particular strains.
Ive been too busy this week to start a thread about my suppliment lights but they are really and ideal solution to get things absolutely right.
There are companies that claim to have cracked the code and have the best spectrum ect. Its all marketing BS, there is no perfect spectrum apart from the sun and it just costs too much on electricity to replicate sunlight.
I'm not a "Grower" and my concern is more about edible crops in general.
Have used standard 2700K and 3000K LED (bulbs) supplemented with 5000K (for added Blue) successfully, but will be ordering LED Strips (and Drivers) to replace the bulbs along with fabricating a 2nd Strip Light (along with the prototype Vesta 2750G) to cover another 24" x 48" VEG Area for over wintering Ficus carica (Fig trees)...
BTW, Am definitely interested in the PC Red and Violet supplements., did find some PC Red "Stars" at Cutter.
Thanks. Will be looking forward to the info. I was actually planning on trying / using a few LED filament Black Lights (Feit) as a Violet (Blue) Supplement.
Thanks. Will be looking forward to the info. I was actually planning on trying / using a few LED filament Black Lights (Feit) as a Violet (Blue) Supplement.
I dont think you will get much in the way of intensity out of them. You would probably be better off with fluro rather than LED. Good T5 fluro tubes are still better than alot of the current led products around for growing.
Only looking to “Fill” the 400 - 430 nm hole in the PC White LED spectrum as efficiently as possible. Similar to the Cutter UVA Boost LED strips, don’t require any real UVA.
Only looking to “Fill” the 400 - 430 nm hole in the PC White LED spectrum as efficiently as possible. Similar to the Cutter UVA Boost LED strips, don’t require any real UVA.
I'm not far off a product to fill in the spectrum really well, price will be good too. You will be able to run as little or as much as you like.
They will also have much better spread than strips, spread matters alot especially for microgreens. You want the light to be able to bounce around more if possible. Strips always have hot spot unless you use expensive optics
. 