May 20, 2017 at 10:30 am
Hi im new to led growing.
Im trying to make my led micro grow using 4 (or maybe 5 to get better light spread) CLU048-1212. My goal is to underdrive cobs to get total wattage range of 25-100w.
What would be my best choice for one dimmable driver to run 4-5 cobs with dimming range from 25 to 100w??
May 20, 2017 at 2:00 pm
If you need a max of 100W total, shared between 4-5 COBs (20-25 watts each), go with an HLG-120H-C700. You can dim this down to about 25 watts total.
May 22, 2017 at 3:09 am
May 24, 2017 at 5:04 pm
Hey dude, thanks doing all this stuff. I’ve been following this site since Feb or so and although there are others doing what you’re doing, it was thru this site that I got the fundamentals and subsequently the confidence to build a light and finally start growing indoors.
So, thank you!
May 24, 2017 at 5:56 pm
Thanks for the feedback! Reading comments like this one is what motivates me to continue producing content. I’m glad to hear you’ve gotten some useful info from the site and made the leap to DIY. What components did you end up going with?
There’s more and more information becoming available out there on DIY LED, but my aim is to really hone in on the basic stuff that might be glossed over by the LED geniuses like Growmau5 and co. who are discussing a lot of higher-level stuff. I’m sure you’ve seen Growmau5’s video tutorials already, but if you haven’t, I always recommend people check those out as well, because they’re incredibly well done.
May 24, 2017 at 7:18 pm
For sure, bro. Keep going. I can see myself doing something like this in the near future, cuz I’m completely hooked. Both on indoor-growing and on LEDs.
So, really simply, I picked up the Vero 29 kit from RapidLED:
– 3 Vero 29s, extruded bar heatsink, Angelina optics… and my first mistake (and certainly not the last), I chose the HLG 240 2100B.
If I had known then how quickly I’d turn into an efficiency snob or more importantly that watts have nothing to do with growing, I would have chosen to run it softer. Although… listening to Growmau5 (and his buddy GreenGene from pacificlightconcepts.com) Vero 29 (at least the C or SEs) at high currents might be worth a second look. He’s coming out with a 600w, 6 Vero 29 commercial fixture for short $ (it’s currently sold out).
But hey, man, who cares – there are so many more builds to come.
The Samsung lights you just highlighted… that was awesome, cuz these new chilledgrowlights.com are using those strips with insane results. (Also currently sold out)
So I feel like, with my technical background and people like you – and those other guys, around to spoon feed me, I know just enough to be dangerous. Lol.
Hey man, seriously, I hope I get the chance to talk to you again… unfortunately for me, in my small world, just uttering “micromole” caused people to check-out. Thanks again.
May 24, 2017 at 7:52 pm
Awesome. I actually just recommended that exact driver for a handful of Vero 29s to somebody else today. If it were me, I would have picked the same one myself… 2,100mA is 50% of those Vero’s max current so there’s nothing wrong with pushing them that hard. Plus, you can always dim it and get that low current efficiency anyway. Definitely wouldn’t call that a mistake.
I was in mau5’s last stream where he was doing research for his Vero video and him and GG had a look at some test results for that PLC 6 light you’re talking about. His test results showed the driver used for testing was an HLG-600H-54, so that means he’s using the B version Veros (50V chips). Those chips will pull all the current that driver can produce (about 2 amps each) and will have a voltage of ~51.5V across them at that current, so he’s pushing about 100W per chip.
The LM561Cs are definitely all the hype right now. There are Chilled boards, Quantum boards, WaVy boards, DIY builds… you name it. I think we’ll see a lot of new LM561C-based boards hit the market very soon.
I feel your pain regarding finding other people interested in this stuff; our hobby is certainly a niche. I could chat about this shit all day though so shoot me an email any time you’d like – just use the “Contact” button on the menu at the top.
May 27, 2017 at 1:32 pm
Lets say I have a configuration of 4 cobs and one driver to run them. Is there any way to adjust the wattage of each cob separately using one driver? maybe some device between each cob and a driver that could change the current ?
May 27, 2017 at 5:49 pm
That’s a tough one with constant current. What do you need different powers for?
May 28, 2017 at 1:32 am
Hmm, that’s a bit of a tricky one with a series circuit. What’s the idea behind sending different power to certain COBs?
May 28, 2017 at 4:18 pm
Im thinking about 2 cobs with more blue in spectrum and 2cobs with more red in spectrum in micro grow. I was wondering if changing the ratio of kelvin temps through out the grow(veg/flower) would make any difference, Lets say cobs with higher Klevin maxed and low kelvin cobs minimised in veg and opposite in flower. I dont know if it would make any real difference, maybe its not even worth it, but its more of curiosity. I know i could buy two drivers for that but I was curious if its possible with one driver.
May 28, 2017 at 4:21 pm
of course i could simply chcange cobs to one driver but that is not convenient
May 28, 2017 at 4:25 pm
Sounds like an interesting experiment. I would just do 2 drivers. You could do this with one driver by paralleling the 2 low power COBs together so they split the current, but it’d be hard to get any finer control over how much current they get.
May 28, 2017 at 4:35 pm
I think its better for me to keep thing simple especialy with electric stuff. Two drivers sounds more reasonable. Thanks
May 28, 2017 at 5:08 pm
I wouldn’t get too hung up on the individual COB temps. If you’re new to LED growing, I would say… stick with 3500K COBs. They offer a great middle-of-the-road spectrum.
Also, I’d be willing to wager that this will NOT be the last light you build. So, first get a feel for all they can do for your garden, then you can experiment with “light recipes”.
May 29, 2017 at 12:08 pm
Thanks Brad, I will try with 3500k first. Do you have any reliable info about 80 vs 90 cri ? I did some reading on the internet nad some say that 90cri might be better even though it emits less photons but has better spectrum.
May 29, 2017 at 2:50 pm
So here’s the deal with CRI: the higher the number (like 90 vs 80), the more likely the light put out by one chip will match the color of all other (90 CRI) chips. This accuracy comes at the cost of total light output. (These might be used in big hotels, museums, etc.)
The only 90 CRI COBs I would consider in my build are 2700Ks… this is because of the deep/far red spectrum. Although, I think our host might want to weigh in on this to confirm my veracity.
May 29, 2017 at 5:28 pm
CRI is a tricky subject. I’m going to just blatantly copy and paste wikipedia’s definition: “Color rendering index (CRI) is a quantitative measure of the ability of a light source to reveal the colors of various objects faithfully in comparison with an ideal or natural light source”. So it’s not really about how consistent chips are with one another (that would likely be more of a Macadam Ellipse/binning thing), but more about how well they reproduce colours compared to an ideal emitter.
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