Checked datasheets for n-th time and I believe that HLG-150H-20A will be able to drive all 10 strips in parallel. 150W, 17~22V adjustment and 4.5~7.5A adjustment.
If high voltage is the only concern, how about wiring in parallel 2 groups 5 strips in series (so 2x5 strips)? This should require ~100V and 1400mA?
Just a practical question on setting voltage and/or current limit on "A" type drivers: is there a tutorial on how to do this in practice? Do I set voltage with multimeter on just the driver (nothing connected to it)? Do I need to connect all strips and then set voltage?
How about current? If i want to dim the lights, do I lower the current and keep voltage limit as it is (19.5V)? Or just drop voltage even further and get lower current according to graph in datasheet?
How accurately can you set voltage on "A" type driver? By looking at strip datasheet if I "miss" typical voltage by 0.5V, it will draw 1050mA instead of 700mA, so voltage should be set pretty accurately?
I get a feeling I'm overthinking this one...
Total Newbie Strip Light build
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sdfoster22
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A multimeter works great for setting voltage. If you want to measure current correctly you have to run the multimeter in series with the strip. Ledg has a few videos on these drivers in his blog. Also you can check out growmau5 on YouTube. He has some as well.
NothinYet is my nickname
Just in case anyone is wondering how this light should look (at least in SketchUp): https://files.fm/u/nx4et447
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sdfoster22
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You have to have all your strips wired up to get a reading. If nothing is hooked up, there is nothing to draw the power from the driver.
NothinYet is my nickname
hi. nice thread. same as I'm thinking of building (bridgelux strips (560mm) to fill 0.6x0.6m box).
I'm completely lost now in these CC or CV drivers story and numbers. If I understand correctly, if I want option for running 8 bridgelux 560mm strips from ~0.35A (25%) upto 0.7A (50%) I can use HLG-120-20A driver right?
what about ELG-150-24A? except in this case I can't go lower than 0.45A per strip using 10 strips instead of 8, right?
PS
If you are in EU and drop DIY idea, you have option for zeus 308 that use samsung new LM301B leds. they issued a new revision of the board (zeus 308 XT, bigger dimensions, same type/No of leds) a few days ago. looking at specs it sound great but still didn't find anyone actualy using them and testing.
did you find Bridgelux strips to order to EU except arrow and digikey?
mean well drivers you can find inside EU probably in almost every country so consider that. maybe is cheaper and safer for using warranty (for me it's cheaper in my country and I live in a very small one).
I'm completely lost now in these CC or CV drivers story and numbers. If I understand correctly, if I want option for running 8 bridgelux 560mm strips from ~0.35A (25%) upto 0.7A (50%) I can use HLG-120-20A driver right?
what about ELG-150-24A? except in this case I can't go lower than 0.45A per strip using 10 strips instead of 8, right?
PS
If you are in EU and drop DIY idea, you have option for zeus 308 that use samsung new LM301B leds. they issued a new revision of the board (zeus 308 XT, bigger dimensions, same type/No of leds) a few days ago. looking at specs it sound great but still didn't find anyone actualy using them and testing.
did you find Bridgelux strips to order to EU except arrow and digikey?
mean well drivers you can find inside EU probably in almost every country so consider that. maybe is cheaper and safer for using warranty (for me it's cheaper in my country and I live in a very small one).
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sdfoster22
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The hlg-120h-20a will give you about that yes. The elg-150-24a has a voltage adjustment range of 21.6-26.4v. It would probably run in CC mode. The 20v drivers are the correct drivers for the bridgelux eb gen 2 strips.
NothinYet is my nickname
Just a quick update:
All materials were acquired (shipping from china takes very long time), prepared and assembled. Light works, but for some reason the fuse in my multimeter has blown when setting up the driver. Multimeter had 10A fuse, driver can only put out 7.5A according to datasheet; I pluged the driver with both voltage and current pots set to minimum, increased current pot to max (no change in voltage), then slowly increased voltage pot and watched current. It came up to ~6ish A, then everything went dark. I feared the worst, but taking multimeter out of the circuit made the light work again, so I just need a new fuse (the blown one has infinite resistance according to multimeter).
I will post the pics when my grow tent arrives and light is hanging in there in its full glory
I do have another question: Eb Gen2 strips have small copper contacts which can be used to measure temperature. How exactly do I measure temperature with them? Are they meant for multimeters that have temperature function integrated (thermocouple)? Or are they just thermally conductive copper spots that one can use with temperature probe of a thermometer?
All materials were acquired (shipping from china takes very long time), prepared and assembled. Light works, but for some reason the fuse in my multimeter has blown when setting up the driver. Multimeter had 10A fuse, driver can only put out 7.5A according to datasheet; I pluged the driver with both voltage and current pots set to minimum, increased current pot to max (no change in voltage), then slowly increased voltage pot and watched current. It came up to ~6ish A, then everything went dark. I feared the worst, but taking multimeter out of the circuit made the light work again, so I just need a new fuse (the blown one has infinite resistance according to multimeter).
I will post the pics when my grow tent arrives and light is hanging in there in its full glory
I do have another question: Eb Gen2 strips have small copper contacts which can be used to measure temperature. How exactly do I measure temperature with them? Are they meant for multimeters that have temperature function integrated (thermocouple)? Or are they just thermally conductive copper spots that one can use with temperature probe of a thermometer?
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sdfoster22
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I would say a laser thermometer would work if you have some good sunglasses. I've Senn people usa a thermocouple as well.
*Edit*
There is usually 3 different plugs on the multimeter. Also the current input usually has a lower mA fuse than the voltage input.
*Edit*
There is usually 3 different plugs on the multimeter. Also the current input usually has a lower mA fuse than the voltage input.
NothinYet is my nickname
Actually I have 4 different ports on my meter (VA18-B type). I used the 10A port on multimeter for current measurement. I also checked owners manual if polarity is an issue, but it says that in case of reversed polarity I would see a negative current on the display without any damage to the device. Maybe it was just a weird fuse that decided to blow really quick.
As for temperature I'm talking about the little copper circles that can be seen on the image below (Tc2 & Tc3):
I looked on bridgelux site and found a video for COBs, but they seem to have different Tc pad compared to strips. Id there a guide or something where I could see how those pads work, whats required, if it's possible to install continous temperature measurment, etc.?
As for temperature I'm talking about the little copper circles that can be seen on the image below (Tc2 & Tc3):
I looked on bridgelux site and found a video for COBs, but they seem to have different Tc pad compared to strips. Id there a guide or something where I could see how those pads work, whats required, if it's possible to install continous temperature measurment, etc.?